Fluid leaking from Brake Booster
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,160
Likes: 1,733
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Fluid leaking from Brake Booster
I've been trying to track down a brake fluid loss for awhile now, since I installed the C5 setup.
There were no signs of leakage anywhere around hose fittings, they were all completely dry, and today I noticed a very small amount of fluid leaking from the brake booster underneath the MC. Its not leaking where the MC and BB meet, but about an 1" below from a hole in the BB.
I dont know the inner workings of the booster, but is there some gasket that can be replaced or does the entire booster require replacement?
Pedal is neither too hard nor too soft, its firm and steady all the time.
There were no signs of leakage anywhere around hose fittings, they were all completely dry, and today I noticed a very small amount of fluid leaking from the brake booster underneath the MC. Its not leaking where the MC and BB meet, but about an 1" below from a hole in the BB.
I dont know the inner workings of the booster, but is there some gasket that can be replaced or does the entire booster require replacement?
Pedal is neither too hard nor too soft, its firm and steady all the time.
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 589
Likes: 1
From: Tucker GA
My guess is you have a MC leaking out the rear seal and into the insiode of the booster rather than trickling down from the junction of the MC and booster. I have had minor MC leaks from the rear of the MC which did not affect braking performance, in the time before which I caught them.
MTCW. Bob
MTCW. Bob
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: GA
The booster is NOt supposed to have any fluid in it, it should all stay in the M/C. If you have fluid getting in the booster, the seal at the back of the M/C is probably shot (change M/C) and hope the fluid didn't destroy the seals in the booster too.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,097
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From: High Plains Drifter Fayetteville, AR
Originally Posted by Morley
The booster is NOt supposed to have any fluid in it, it should all stay in the M/C. If you have fluid getting in the booster, the seal at the back of the M/C is probably shot (change M/C) and hope the fluid didn't destroy the seals in the booster too.
Both pieces are timebombs now. Replace the master cylinder and expect a hard pedal when the booster dies in the near future.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,160
Likes: 1,733
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Ok so what all is entailed when removing the MC, is this an easy job, and what tools will I need?
How should I go about bench bleeding this MC, what type of wrench is needed to get those nuts off for the lines and for the small bolts attaching it to the booster.
I dont have many tools here in louisiana with me
How should I go about bench bleeding this MC, what type of wrench is needed to get those nuts off for the lines and for the small bolts attaching it to the booster.
I dont have many tools here in louisiana with me
Last edited by vader86; May 9, 2005 at 12:45 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: OBAMA IS HITLER
vader, if and when the time comes for the brake booster replacement, may i recommend a metal one. this is the cheapest source i ever found, $129.99: http://www.hotrodsusa.com/store/boosterchev.html
you'll want their p/n HRB 2410908.
hope this helps.
you'll want their p/n HRB 2410908.
hope this helps.
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Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,160
Likes: 1,733
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Are you recommending it because the header heat may eventually melt down the plastic one, or some other reason?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: OBAMA IS HITLER
Originally Posted by vader86
Are you recommending it because the header heat may eventually melt down the plastic one, or some other reason?
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 207
Likes: 0
From: Hilo Hawaii
i have the metal one as well the price was better. I'll go check on the sizes for you i have a 90 though so it may differ slightly. be careful when you remove the master the nuts on the brake lines are soft and may round if you don't use a well fitting wrench.
as far as the booster goes you may want to have a few extentions on hand and a universal joint socket ext. it is tight under the dash and i had a "wonderful" time trying to get those nuts back on to hold the booster in.
as far as the bleed goes i used a bench vise with a good amount of cardboard padding to keep the mc ear in good shape...have someone hold it for you....and i used a wooden dowel with a rounded tip to move the piston. (you'll need the hoses and rubber fittings of course to bleed it.)
try not to get too crazy putting in that booster though!! it' can be a pita!!
good luck!!
James
as far as the booster goes you may want to have a few extentions on hand and a universal joint socket ext. it is tight under the dash and i had a "wonderful" time trying to get those nuts back on to hold the booster in.
as far as the bleed goes i used a bench vise with a good amount of cardboard padding to keep the mc ear in good shape...have someone hold it for you....and i used a wooden dowel with a rounded tip to move the piston. (you'll need the hoses and rubber fittings of course to bleed it.)
try not to get too crazy putting in that booster though!! it' can be a pita!!
good luck!!
James
