C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Code 32 - Should I really care?

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Old May 10, 2005 | 01:48 AM
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From: Correlation does not imply causation
Default Code 32 - Should I really care?

Was advised when I bought the car that it comes up seomtimes.

Has happened twice to me.

Both time very hot days on the freeway (funnily enough, both times it happened it was on the same stretch of 15 miles of freeway, whereas when I took it out for about 500 miles it didn't come on once )

When I go to restart - all good.

SHould I care? this is just the smog stuff going "wrong" isn't it?

No real possibilites of anything bad?
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Old May 10, 2005 | 03:14 AM
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My '88 did that when I first bought it and each time it would run rough and seemed to lose power.

There is an EGR diagnostic method on my site.

BTW, the ECM only calls for EGR during steady speeds when the coolant temp is above 175deg F.
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Old May 10, 2005 | 03:23 AM
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On mine I replaced the EGR switch wiring and so on .
It still comes on in the AM after the car has set over night and I see the volts are low.I shut it off and restart and it goes out after the battery charges up.
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Old May 10, 2005 | 03:34 AM
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From: Correlation does not imply causation
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Originally Posted by 65Z01
My '88 did that when I first bought it and each time it would run rough and seemed to lose power.
Has had absoloutely no effect on my power or running thankfully

There is an EGR diagnostic method on my site.
Checking that out now, thanks
BTW, the ECM only calls for EGR during steady speeds when the coolant temp is above 175deg F.
Did not realise that, explains why I hit on the freeway on those two hot days
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Old May 10, 2005 | 03:40 AM
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REDC4CORVETTE your ECM checks for EGR open on startup and throws the code if it sees it open when not called for.

Possibly the low voltage problem is causing a false reading from the EGR switch.

ozvette the purpose of EGR is to lower combustion chamber temps during steady speed driving to prevent ping. When the ECM detects ping it pulls timing which cuts power. If you are not experiencing any power loss you may be ok.

Last edited by 65Z01; May 10, 2005 at 03:43 AM.
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Old May 10, 2005 | 04:54 AM
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I can say one thing ,I have replaced everything on the engine to get rid of the code 32.(Computer to EGR)
When I stomp the gas it does ping just a little and then it pulls the timing ,then ping goes away.
If I run 106 race fuel I don't get any ping.
Don't want to hijack your thread.(Sorry)
Thanks for the info 65Z01.
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Old May 10, 2005 | 07:55 AM
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Do you have aftermarket exhaust? A lower back pressure would cause the symptoms you describe. I had the exact same thing happen on my old '92; I'd hit a long stretch of road, 70-75 MPH and after a few minutes, boing, there's the SES light. Code 32.

As far as I can tell, there's nothing you can do about it except have the chip burned to remove the EGR test (doesn't affect actual operation).
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Old May 10, 2005 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by ShawnZR-1
Do you have aftermarket exhaust? A lower back pressure would cause the symptoms you describe. I had the exact same thing happen on my old '92; I'd hit a long stretch of road, 70-75 MPH and after a few minutes, boing, there's the SES light. Code 32.

As far as I can tell, there's nothing you can do about it except have the chip burned to remove the EGR test (doesn't affect actual operation).
Yeah, aftermarket exhaust system.

I think I will just ignore it, as it really doesn't cause any actual problems while driving
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Old May 10, 2005 | 11:06 PM
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Just ignore it, I do.
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Old May 11, 2005 | 05:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ozvette
Has happened twice to me.

Both time very hot days on the freeway (funnily enough, both times it happened it was on the same stretch of 15 miles of freeway, whereas when I took it out for about 500 miles it didn't come on once )
My '89 would throw Code 32's intermittantly when
I ran at 80+ in the summer.

Examine the EGR sensor (1pc - pn# 14087415)
located in the shielded tube that enters the intake
manifold on the passenger side near the distributor.

Mine felt loose where the wire enters the ceramic
core and on inspection, the threaded insert had
begun to come out. (The hood release cable for the
passenger side was routed right beside the sensor
and may have put pressure on the connector each
time the hood was opened.) Replacement of the
sensor takes about five minutes: disconnect the
sensor wire, use a box end wrench to remove the
old one and then reverse these steps to insert the
new sensor.

.
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