C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Distributor wires

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Old May 15, 2005 | 04:34 PM
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Default Distributor wires

I have a 1984 Corvette. A few days ago it refused to start. The engine is cranking, but it won't fire. In the process of trying to diagnose the problem, I found a wire coming off my distributor that is not attached to anything. It is a single wire coming from the bottom of the TACH box on the drivers side. It has a brown connector. The wire is only about 2 inches long. I cannot find anything in that general vicinity that would plug into this. The last time I drove the car was about two weeks ago, and the tachometer worked fine.
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Old May 15, 2005 | 06:10 PM
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Is that a "spare" connecter in the wire that goes from the "Tach" terminal in the distributor cap to the tach filter (a condensor looking decice)? I have hear speculation that, that connector is for a test (diagnostic) equipment tach. I have no first hand knowledge what it is for, but it's been disconnect on my car for the 18 years I've owned it, with no problems.

For the starting problem, check for spark and fuel pressure. I'll bet a nickle against a donut, it's fuel. Once you've checked, we can go from there.

RACE ON!!!
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Old May 15, 2005 | 06:29 PM
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Do you have fuel; do you have spark??
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Old May 16, 2005 | 07:48 PM
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I don't think I have gas, and no reason to believe I don't have spark. In other vehicles when I have had ignition coil or distributor problems, there has always been some missing, etc. when driving. With the 'Vette, I've had none of that. I have had to crank it multiple times on occasion. I am taking that to mean that the fuel pump was starting to fail. I tried turning it over with the air cleaner off, and I couldn't see gas coming from the injectors. When I put the key in the position before start, I do not hear the pump priming. I'm still honing my electrical skills, but I am getting more handy with the wrench side of auto mechanics.

I have ordered a new fuel pump from Corvette Central (I was going to replace the fuel screen anyway). I have removed the gas lid and the rubber boot, and it is very obvious to me that nothing in the gas tank has been touched before. For a 1984 with 186,000 miles, I think I'd be surprised if the pump wasn't bad. Thanks for the advice.
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Old May 16, 2005 | 08:10 PM
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I hate replacing parts just because they are old. Connect a 12 volt wire to terminal "G" of your ALDL. That will power up the fuel pump, even if the relay or oil pressure switch are bad. Oops, the fuse will have to be good in order for that to work. If the above test runs the pump, your problem with the fuel system is else ware.

RACE ON!!!
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Old May 16, 2005 | 08:54 PM
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I generally don't replace parts "just because they are old" either, but in this case I was going to be working in the tank anyway. I have read elsewhere that by running 12 volts to terminal G I can see if the pump works. Can you elaborate? I have a battery that is not in the car. Do I simply run a wire from the positive terminal to the G terminal? Do you have any recommendations for setting this up? Thanks.
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Old May 16, 2005 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by efweber
I have a battery that is not in the car. Do I simply run a wire from the positive terminal to the G terminal? Do you have any recommendations for setting this up? Thanks.
Yes you can do that. However you will have to ground your external battery to something.
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Old May 17, 2005 | 02:14 PM
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To me the simplest method would be to run a jumper wire from the car's positive battery terminal. The distance isn't all that great. Maybe you can think of a closer, easier to access, source of 12 volts than that. As siggy_freud points out, with a spare battery, you will have to be sure it is properly grounded. I'd say, what ever is easiest for you. It's no big deal, really.

RACE ON!!!
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