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Hey, is there a trick or an easier way than what may seem apparent in
the connection of the brake booster and the brake pedal?
Any advice on this installation is appreciated.
From: What did the 5 fingers say to the face? SLAP!!
What year is your car??
On my '86, all you have to do is pull off a small clip where the booster rod goes through the pedal linkage. The operation took approximately 5 seconds.
From: What did the 5 fingers say to the face? SLAP!!
What year is your car??
On my '86, all you have to do is pull off a small clip where the booster rod goes through the pedal linkage. It took all of 5 seconds to disconnect the pedal from the booster.
I have a 1990 and was wondering how hard it would be to get to the pedal linkage. When you did yours did you have to disconnect the lines going to the master cylinder or were you able to lift it high enough to move the booster out of the way?
From: What did the 5 fingers say to the face? SLAP!!
Stand on your head benath the dash and you can undo the pedal linkage. The brake lines do not have to be removed. There will be enough flex in them to pull the MC forward off the studs, allowing you to wiggle the booster forward off the firewall. The hardest part of the whole job is getting to the nuts that hold the booster to the firewall under the dash. If you have a long extension and a swivel, it makes it much easier.
Stand on your head benath the dash and you can undo the pedal linkage. The brake lines do not have to be removed. There will be enough flex in them to pull the MC forward off the studs, allowing you to wiggle the booster forward off the firewall. The hardest part of the whole job is getting to the nuts that hold the booster to the firewall under the dash. If you have a long extension and a swivel, it makes it much easier.
Maybe this is pushing it, is it tough adjusting the pedal or is there anything else I must know? It sure is nice to have a source where great guys with something important in common can help eachother.
Pete
There's normally no pedal adjustment required. The booster rod is pre-set at the factory to the correct length, so all you do is bolt everything back together.
In my case, though (also from another post I recently read), the pedal was a little loose. I'd step on the brake and for about the first 1/2" of pedal travel; NOTHING, then the brakes would begin to work.
I ended up installing a washer between the master cylinder and booster to remove that little bit of clearance. If you have to make any such kind of adjustment, just be sure you don't set it so tightly that the brakes drag.