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Some may know this and some may not. I certainly did not. I recently built a 406 motor for my 87. I lost a thrust surface in the crank. Complete rebuild is required. I then put my back up 383 in and it promptly blew up. My engine builder worked for ford and claims that once debris gets into the factory type coolers, you cannot properly solvent flush. It will not release the trapped metal crap untilthe oil hits operating temp. Then it pumps the shavings directly into the #5 bearing. This is the thrust bearing on a chevy. This is news to me, I though I would share with others. New motor = New oil cooler. I have no idea if this applies to aftermarket coolers. I forgot to ask.
Last edited by Pete K; May 19, 2005 at 07:52 AM.
Reason: typo
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
I can tell you in HD diesel engines, where the oil coolers are built into the block, it is standard procedure to replace them when debris has been present. Sorry for your misfortune.
I had some issues with oil filter/cooler area as well. Not quite the same thing, the little aluminum deal that bolts to the block cracked and pumped all the oil out of the o-ring between the cooler and the block. I left the oil cooler off the car on the new 383, and ran it without for about 1000 miles. I just hooked up a traditional oil cooler and it runs much, much cooler.
That's one of the reasons I block the oil bypass on the filter adapter. That way EVERYTHING goes through the filter. I've heard of some poo-poo this method because if the filter gets clogged then no oil... Well, in years of professional engine building I NEVER saw this occur but I've seen trash go through them plenty. Just a little extra insurance and if you maintain your vehicle as methodically as you should it will never be an issue. Just a thought for the next build.
-Jeb
That's one of the reasons I block the oil bypass on the filter adapter. That way EVERYTHING goes through the filter. I've heard of some poo-poo this method because if the filter gets clogged then no oil... Well, in years of professional engine building I NEVER saw this occur but I've seen trash go through them plenty. Just a little extra insurance and if you maintain your vehicle as methodically as you should it will never be an issue. Just a thought for the next build.
-Jeb
I even mentioned this recently in another response - that the by-pass was allowing trash to reach the bearings - where another member posted photos showing his bearing problems.
We use to always modify the stock by-pass on the race engines to cause ALL the oil to flow through the filter. You can now buy one specifically for that purpose, ready to bolt on.
That's one of the reasons I block the oil bypass on the filter adapter. That way EVERYTHING goes through the filter. I've heard of some poo-poo this method because if the filter gets clogged then no oil... Well, in years of professional engine building I NEVER saw this occur but I've seen trash go through them plenty. Just a little extra insurance and if you maintain your vehicle as methodically as you should it will never be an issue. Just a thought for the next build.
-Jeb
Jeb, I also block the bypass with a pipe plug on every motor I build. In the case of the 406, the filter could not get all of it. The oil still looked like gold dust. I imagine it would have been worse yet if I didn't block it. Since I have used up my 3 good motors I started the rip down of the 406 and found some interesting damage. Very odd, I never saw such strange damage in a small block chevy.
Pete, I got it for $205. Retail is well over $300, which of course is nuts. With all this talk of bypassing, did I screw up by buying one? I wasn't aware of the bypass trick, now I'm out $205 + $8 shipping, and another week downtime. I mean, I reacted lightening quick (called my mechanic, halted the last min. details - it was 1 hour from being fired up!) & ordered it on the spot because I thought I had to based on my situation.
Last edited by Red Tornado; May 19, 2005 at 11:25 PM.
Pete, I got it for $205. Retail is well over $300, which of course is nuts. With all this talk of bypassing, did I screw up by buying one? I wasn't aware of the bypass trick, now I'm out $205 + $8 shipping, and another week downtime. I mean, I reacted lightening quick (called my mechanic, halted the last min. details - it was 1 hour from being fired up!) & ordered it on the spot because I thought I had to based on my situation.
Brad, the oil filter adapter above the filter and cooler is what we modified. You did the right thing by not putting the used oil cooler back on. Any debris trapped in it will flow directly to #5 main bearing and then completely through the engine. Rest easy.
now that i've had time to look in my summitracing catalog, i could have bought one for about $50 less. not too bad of a difference, considering a gametime decision had to be made with no resources at my disposal at the moment it was made
Damn, Pete! You'd had nothing but expensive lessons lately! Thanks for passing on the info...Hope your vette's back up soon
i think there should be something done about it......pete is one of those guys (like some others on this forum) who always helps others no matter what his own status is