HELP!!! 383 still smoking.....
what will blocking the tb and pcv off do?I believe it will cause the motor to build crank case pressure and there for blow my rear and front mains.I do have a big chrome filter that presses into the rubber snout where the oil fill cap should be so I dont think it will build to much pressure.will it?I also used my old pcv and left it in the valve cover and blocked the line out of the intake.at first my valve cover got soaked in oil from the 10 minute ride I went on.then I took some napkin and stuck it in the snout of the valve so no oil can blow by.I will fill everyone in tomarrow on what diffrence it makes.
thanks guys.


If it turns out that the PCV is not the source. I'll ask what kind of heads you're using and did you have the heads or blocked milled? If not done exactly correct, the intake may note seal. Also are you using a high volume oil pump with hyd lifters. Might be putting too much oil in the valve covers. Taller valve covers might help a bit too and baffling is a must.
Good luck figuring it out.
Last edited by ralph; May 22, 2005 at 10:41 PM.
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If it turns out that the PCV is not the source. I'll ask what kind of heads you're using and did you have the heads or blocked milled? If not done exactly correct, the intake may note seal. Also are you using a high volume oil pump with hyd lifters. Might be putting too much oil in the valve covers. Taller valve covers might help a bit too and baffling is a must.
Good luck figuring it out.
You might want to cut back 1/2 Qt of oil too. The stroker crank reaches deeper into the pan and can sling more oil around than the stocker. If you're road racing or doing a lot of high G turns, you might want to consider an aftermarket pan.
Good luck.
also the studs are not leaking either.and the car does idle weird. when I pull up to lights it hunts for idle from like 500 to 1000 rpms.
What cylinder heads are you using and what mods have been done on them.
-Jeb
How the spark plugs look,
Who did the short block assembly and
What rings are you using.
It may just be oil getting sucked into the intake port at the bottom. That's one reason I always use and recommend using sensor-safe silicone sealant on both sides of the intake gasket around the air and coolant ports.
Closely inspecting the old intake gaskets may show if oil is getting sucked in at the bottom of the port. The impressions around the port openings on the gaskets should be be unbroken. There should also be signs of oil on the lower edge(s) of the gasket(s) right at the port opening.
If you completely remove the PCV system and run only breathers on both valve covers, that will eliminate the PCV as a possible source. So if the engine continues to burn oil and smoke, the cause has to be somewhere else.
If you end up pulling the intake again, clean everything off, then set the intake on the engine with no gasket in place. Look from the front where the intake and head meet (the area where the intake gasket would reside). The gap should be equal top to bottom (NO 'V' shape) and the gap should be the same on both the driver and passenger side of the engine.
Other possibilities are low tension oil rings; top/second ring in wrong position; ring(s) installed upside down.
Also, since the engine is burning that much oil, the 02 is probably dead from contamination.
Just my thoughts.
Jake
thanks guys for all the help
oh ya and it will detonate if I advance the timming at all from 0* because of all the oil.
thanks guys for all the help
oh ya and it will detonate if I advance the timming at all from 0* because of all the oil.
I don't know what the Mr. Gasket (ultra) manifold part number but I believe its the standard chevy intake manifold kit. I will try to find that info when I get home. They are soft and flexible not hard like the Felpro's.
I would change the gaskets and use RTV if I was you. Thats what I did.
Good luck!
John
I don't know what the Mr. Gasket (ultra) manifold part number but I believe its the standard chevy intake manifold kit. I will try to find that info when I get home. They are soft and flexible not hard like the Felpro's.
.
I would change the gaskets and use RTV if I was you. Thats what I did.
Good luck!
John
thanks guys for all the help
oh ya and it will detonate if I advance the timming at all from 0* because of all the oil.
Start with the easiest/least difficult to do first and, if the cause isn't found and corrected, progress to the most difficult - like checking the pistons/rings.
Oil can get into the intake tract a few different ways. For example, air flow into the engine doesn't always travel in one/single direction (i.e. from the plenum to the combustion chamber.) Valve overlap can cause oil mist to migrate back up the intake tract. The same thing occurs in the header; exhaust flow doesn't always move from the exhaust valve to the muffler. It moves back and forth, pulsating.
Improperly installed rings on a single piston many times will not show up right away. But it doesn't take long for the problem to surface. Many years ago, while being distracted by too much conversation and Seagram's V.O., I installed the top compression ring in the #2 land and the 2nd ring up top. Engine seemed fine at first - just like you said; for a week or so - but then the effected plug began to oil foul.
I did just like you and checked all the obvious things first, but when the cause wasn't found, I finally pulled the #8 piston and immediately saw what I'd done. **** happens!
On another occasion, I installed freshly built, +.060 427 BB, assembled by a machine shop, into a 'F' body. Fired the engine and it emptied the oil pan out through the exhaust in 20 miles of driving. Can you imagine the amount of smoke pouring out the tail pipe during that drive???
When I tore it down, I found the shop had installed 396 rings instead of 427 rings, which wouldn't seat and gave HUGE ring end gaps. **** happens!
When I have such a problem, one thing I always do is NOT ASSUME something's done "right". Even the best engine builders, like the NASCAR and Formula 1 guys, make the same kinds of mistakes. **** happens!
When you post "but . . ." and "how can . . .", I feel that what you're doing is mentally discounting certain possibilites. This isn't how I address similar problems. When I encounter a problem - even one like yours - EVERYTHING is on the table for re-examination. EVERYTHING that could even remotely be the cause.
Remember the recent posts where another Forum member's engine had one wrong sized piston installed - one out of eight. Piston slap way above normal, so he tore down the engine. He first reported everything was 'fine" and was about to re-assemble the engine. I sent him a message saying something like, Whoa, STOP, don't do that; keep looking". Since he hadn't found the cause why re-assemnble the engine and expect the slap to have magically disappeared!??. More detailed examination discovered a wrong sized piston. **** happens!
Something to consider: You've changed intake gaskets, now, several times. I'm sure each time you've taken great care to insure they were being installed correctly. Yet, the problem persists. You should now be thinking "I keep doing the same thing over and over, I expect a different result but ain't gettin' it." My diagnostic-meter tells me that it's about time to begin looking elsewhere.
I can only give the best advice I can, but it's sorta like the horse to water analogy. Just try to remember, the Devil's in the details; CLOSELY examine everything - the cause is right there; you just have to see it.
Just my thoughts. Hope they help
Jake
Last edited by JAKE; May 24, 2005 at 02:48 PM.














