396 Stroker Cam Selection
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 626
Likes: 0
From: Lake Lure NC
396 Stroker Cam Selection
I am having troubles picking a cam. Below is my engine specs:
LT1 396 10.5:1 Compression
Billet main caps
Callies crank
Manley 5.8 rods
JE pistons
Stage 3 heads by CNC double springs
Crane Roller Rockers
I have seen alot of people run the Crane Cams 222/230@.50. The problem with this cam is that you have to grind rod bolts. I need a cam that has a 1.050 base circle. Do you guys have any suggestions and is cam the best to use? My engine will handle 6800 RPM and it seems this cam will stop flowing at 6000. Need advice. This cam selection is hard on the brain.
I will be using this car to road race and auto X. I would still like it semi drivable on the street as well. It is not a daily driver.
LT1 396 10.5:1 Compression
Billet main caps
Callies crank
Manley 5.8 rods
JE pistons
Stage 3 heads by CNC double springs
Crane Roller Rockers
I have seen alot of people run the Crane Cams 222/230@.50. The problem with this cam is that you have to grind rod bolts. I need a cam that has a 1.050 base circle. Do you guys have any suggestions and is cam the best to use? My engine will handle 6800 RPM and it seems this cam will stop flowing at 6000. Need advice. This cam selection is hard on the brain.
I will be using this car to road race and auto X. I would still like it semi drivable on the street as well. It is not a daily driver.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 322
Likes: 1
From: Los Gatos, CA
My experience:
I am running a 400 with a comp cams "extreme" (I hate that over-used word) solid roller with 230/236 @.050 on 112 lobe centers. I retarded it a slight bit to help with making the 11/1 comp ratio more streetable. I have a ported SR manifold with pro topline 200 heads.
It works really well for me on road race tracks and the street.
Good luck
I am running a 400 with a comp cams "extreme" (I hate that over-used word) solid roller with 230/236 @.050 on 112 lobe centers. I retarded it a slight bit to help with making the 11/1 comp ratio more streetable. I have a ported SR manifold with pro topline 200 heads.
It works really well for me on road race tracks and the street.
Good luck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Crane, CompCams and other will grind you a cam on the base circle diameter you need. All you have to do is call them and tell 'em what you want. I don't believe there's any extra charge for that service.
If you want a power peak at 6800 you're going to need a 'lotta' cam; 236/242 or even a longer duration cam, like 242/248. You'll also just about kill the low end torque, will need custom PROM tuning, idle will be raunchy and there won't be enough vacuum for the power brakes to work reliably. You'll need a vacuum cannister to address that.
Also, if you plan to have then engine over 6500 regularly, you'd be better off with a mechanical roller cam, rather than a hydraulic roller.
I suggest no longer than I-230/E-236 @.050 hydraulic roller and forget about 6800 RPMs.
Just my opinion.
Jake
If you want a power peak at 6800 you're going to need a 'lotta' cam; 236/242 or even a longer duration cam, like 242/248. You'll also just about kill the low end torque, will need custom PROM tuning, idle will be raunchy and there won't be enough vacuum for the power brakes to work reliably. You'll need a vacuum cannister to address that.
Also, if you plan to have then engine over 6500 regularly, you'd be better off with a mechanical roller cam, rather than a hydraulic roller.
I suggest no longer than I-230/E-236 @.050 hydraulic roller and forget about 6800 RPMs.
Just my opinion.
Jake
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 626
Likes: 0
From: Lake Lure NC
Yes I tried the custom grind road and crane could not grind a 222/230 cam on a 1.050 base circle that i need. I am seeing if they can grind it on a 1.020. Anyone else have any ideas? BTW it is a $100 extra charge to grind custom.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,655
Likes: 24
From: Charleston SC
What are you looking for? I am using a custom ground Comp 306 (Just a 306 grind on the small base circle). The 306 is a bit tame but it makes good power and maintains great drivability. I am fairly shure once I get back to the dyno I should be at 420/420 RWHP/TQ because the day I tuned I had a bad opti and a exhaust leak.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,490
Likes: 2
From: Oviedo FL
I have a very similar setup as yours except mine is a 385.
Callies Racemaster crank
Oliver 6" rods
JE gas ported pistons
Stage III CNC heads
CC 977 springs
I went with a Comp Cam grind using the 3192/3194 lobes (part # 07-000-8) and it was $225 (although I see it in the catalog for $353)
Duration: 224/230
LSA: 113
Lift: .605/.622 w/1.6 RR's
My car dynoed 415/417 to the rear wheel and can probably get more from her as she is running a little rich. It makes 415 hp at 6000 rpms and was still making over 400 at 6200 rpms. Peak torque was at 4200 rpms I believe, with over 400 from 3500 to 5100 rpms.
It's very streetable (even with the McLeod street twin) and I road race this car as much as my wallet will allow me.
Mike
Callies Racemaster crank
Oliver 6" rods
JE gas ported pistons
Stage III CNC heads
CC 977 springs
I went with a Comp Cam grind using the 3192/3194 lobes (part # 07-000-8) and it was $225 (although I see it in the catalog for $353)
Duration: 224/230
LSA: 113
Lift: .605/.622 w/1.6 RR's
My car dynoed 415/417 to the rear wheel and can probably get more from her as she is running a little rich. It makes 415 hp at 6000 rpms and was still making over 400 at 6200 rpms. Peak torque was at 4200 rpms I believe, with over 400 from 3500 to 5100 rpms.
It's very streetable (even with the McLeod street twin) and I road race this car as much as my wallet will allow me.
Mike
Last edited by luvmy92; May 24, 2005 at 09:07 AM.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,126
Likes: 0
From: Cleveland OH
Originally Posted by mothersworry
I have seen alot of people run the Crane Cams 222/230@.50. The problem with this cam is that you have to grind rod bolts. I need a cam that has a 1.050 base circle. Do you guys have any suggestions and is cam the best to use? My engine will handle 6800 RPM and it seems this cam will stop flowing at 6000. Need advice. This cam selection is hard on the brain. I will be using this car to road race and auto X. I would still like it semi drivable on the street as well. It is not a daily driver.
I will be using this car to road race and auto X. I would still like it semi drivable on the street as well. It is not a daily driver.MP's number, 704-393-8241.
Thanks,
Ron
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 3,108
Likes: 126
From: S.L.C. UT
I just built a 396 LT4 for a friend with a F body. We used Pete at CNC Cylinder heads for the heads and intake porting. I used a Comp 230/236 hyd roller, and had it ground on a 114 lobe sep.It was also ground on a .900 base circle. It has good vacuum, peak hp is about 6000 rpm, but pulls hard to 63-6400 rpm. It's mainly a nitrous motor, but has excellant drivability and street manners. It made 404 rwhp and 408 rwtq on a dynojet N/A.
Last edited by tpi 421 vette; May 24, 2005 at 10:25 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
Likes: 85
From: O'Fallon Missouri
Originally Posted by luvmy92
I went with a Comp Cam grind using the 3192/3194 lobes (part # 07-000-8) and it was $225 (although I see it in the catalog for $353)
Duration: 224/230
LSA: 113
Lift: .605/.622 w/1.6 RR's
Duration: 224/230
LSA: 113
Lift: .605/.622 w/1.6 RR's
Racer
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 454
Likes: 0
From: Double Oak TX
Really depends upon where you want your power to be but I'd at least do a 233/242 for a 396 as you need the duration to make peak power to use all of the 6500 rpm. This is the same cam in a 385ci combination with 11.9 to 1 compression and ported stock castings.
(note
I tried to embed a dyno sheet. Peak power was @ 5900 rpm
A lot of cam design also depend upon how your heads flow. For example if the balance between intake and exhaust is 75% you should go with a grind that closer to a single pattern.
This is how a 245/248 cam responded in a 12.5 to 1 compression 398ci motor. It’s using a set of Trick Flows with close to the 75% ration. Note: Peak hp is limited by the intake.
(Another failed embedding of a dyno sheet)
Both these cams had very good streetability so I’d definitely go with a little more duration.
(note
I tried to embed a dyno sheet. Peak power was @ 5900 rpmA lot of cam design also depend upon how your heads flow. For example if the balance between intake and exhaust is 75% you should go with a grind that closer to a single pattern.
This is how a 245/248 cam responded in a 12.5 to 1 compression 398ci motor. It’s using a set of Trick Flows with close to the 75% ration. Note: Peak hp is limited by the intake.
(Another failed embedding of a dyno sheet)
Both these cams had very good streetability so I’d definitely go with a little more duration.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
Likes: 85
From: O'Fallon Missouri
Originally Posted by luvmy92
The same cam?
Last edited by STL94LT1; May 24, 2005 at 03:57 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 626
Likes: 0
From: Lake Lure NC
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions and advice. After much thought and talking to CNC Cylinders heads, Comp Cams, Crane Cams and some owners of local 396's, I have decided to go with the 224/230 Comp Cam. This cam will allow me to learn to road race properly, keep me in a good safe RPM range, while maintaining the Vacumn for the brakes etc. Below is the grind:
Duration: 224/230
LSA: 112 +2 advance
Lift: .606/.622 w/1.6 RR's
This should make for a strong engine and when I need more RPM and learn to get everything the car has to offer now out of it, I can upgrade to a larger cam and grin again. Once again, thanks for all the help. 4 more weeks and I will have the engine at the house and in the garage.
Duration: 224/230
LSA: 112 +2 advance
Lift: .606/.622 w/1.6 RR's
This should make for a strong engine and when I need more RPM and learn to get everything the car has to offer now out of it, I can upgrade to a larger cam and grin again. Once again, thanks for all the help. 4 more weeks and I will have the engine at the house and in the garage.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,261
Likes: 85
From: O'Fallon Missouri
Originally Posted by mothersworry
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions and advice. After much thought and talking to CNC Cylinders heads, Comp Cams, Crane Cams and some owners of local 396's, I have decided to go with the 224/230 Comp Cam. This cam will allow me to learn to road race properly, keep me in a good safe RPM range, while maintaining the Vacumn for the brakes etc. Below is the grind:
Duration: 224/230
LSA: 112 +2 advance
Lift: .606/.622 w/1.6 RR's
Duration: 224/230
LSA: 112 +2 advance
Lift: .606/.622 w/1.6 RR's
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,655
Likes: 24
From: Charleston SC
That should be a great choice. It has a little less duration then my 306 (230/244) but quite a bit more lift (.544/.576 w/1.6R). I think the 306 is a bit tame but love the drivability and will be waiting to see your results as I might go to 1.7's if you get good power and drivability. Please keep us up to data and again good chioce 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,490
Likes: 2
From: Oviedo FL
Originally Posted by mothersworry
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions and advice. After much thought and talking to CNC Cylinders heads, Comp Cams, Crane Cams and some owners of local 396's, I have decided to go with the 224/230 Comp Cam. This cam will allow me to learn to road race properly, keep me in a good safe RPM range, while maintaining the Vacumn for the brakes etc. Below is the grind:
Duration: 224/230
LSA: 112 +2 advance
Lift: .606/.622 w/1.6 RR's
This should make for a strong engine and when I need more RPM and learn to get everything the car has to offer now out of it, I can upgrade to a larger cam and grin again. Once again, thanks for all the help. 4 more weeks and I will have the engine at the house and in the garage.
Duration: 224/230
LSA: 112 +2 advance
Lift: .606/.622 w/1.6 RR's
This should make for a strong engine and when I need more RPM and learn to get everything the car has to offer now out of it, I can upgrade to a larger cam and grin again. Once again, thanks for all the help. 4 more weeks and I will have the engine at the house and in the garage.
Where will you be doing your road racing? I mostly run with Chin at Sebring. We will have 2 very similar looking and running cars when you finish her. BTW, is Jim Smith doing your tuning? I will be very anxious to see your results when complete.
Mike
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,379
Likes: 4
From: rome ny
Originally Posted by mothersworry
I am having troubles picking a cam. Below is my engine specs:
LT1 396 10.5:1 Compression
Billet main caps
Callies crank
Manley 5.8 rods
JE pistons
Stage 3 heads by CNC double springs
Crane Roller Rockers
I have seen alot of people run the Crane Cams 222/230@.50. The problem with this cam is that you have to grind rod bolts. I need a cam that has a 1.050 base circle. Do you guys have any suggestions and is cam the best to use? My engine will handle 6800 RPM and it seems this cam will stop flowing at 6000. Need advice. This cam selection is hard on the brain. I will be using this car to road race and auto X. I would still like it semi drivable on the street as well. It is not a daily driver.
LT1 396 10.5:1 Compression
Billet main caps
Callies crank
Manley 5.8 rods
JE pistons
Stage 3 heads by CNC double springs
Crane Roller Rockers
I have seen alot of people run the Crane Cams 222/230@.50. The problem with this cam is that you have to grind rod bolts. I need a cam that has a 1.050 base circle. Do you guys have any suggestions and is cam the best to use? My engine will handle 6800 RPM and it seems this cam will stop flowing at 6000. Need advice. This cam selection is hard on the brain.
I will be using this car to road race and auto X. I would still like it semi drivable on the street as well. It is not a daily driver.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Originally Posted by mothersworry
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions and advice. After much thought and talking to CNC Cylinders heads, Comp Cams, Crane Cams and some owners of local 396's, I have decided to go with the 224/230 Comp Cam. This cam will allow me to learn to road race properly, keep me in a good safe RPM range, while maintaining the Vacumn for the brakes etc. Below is the grind:
Duration: 224/230
LSA: 112 +2 advance
Lift: .606/.622 w/1.6 RR's
This should make for a strong engine and when I need more RPM and learn to get everything the car has to offer now out of it, I can upgrade to a larger cam and grin again. Once again, thanks for all the help. 4 more weeks and I will have the engine at the house and in the garage.
Duration: 224/230
LSA: 112 +2 advance
Lift: .606/.622 w/1.6 RR's
This should make for a strong engine and when I need more RPM and learn to get everything the car has to offer now out of it, I can upgrade to a larger cam and grin again. Once again, thanks for all the help. 4 more weeks and I will have the engine at the house and in the garage.
Jake
