C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Q: Rear, Outer Tie Rod Ends

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Old May 23, 2005 | 08:14 PM
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Default Q: Rear, Outer Tie Rod Ends

Hey guys,

I have a serious amount of play in my passenger rear wheel, checking out the driver's tomorrow. The play is visibly seen occuring where the tie rod and wheel assembly meet. But, the play appears to come from the bushing and not the tie rod end itself. I purchased a Prothane bushing set and it includes this part.

Here's my questions for those comfortable giving their opinion, which will be much appreciated. Should I replace the tie rod ends and bushings or just the bushings? I found a price of $55 ea for Moog tie rod ends, is that good? Thanks in advance.


Sincerely,
Jason
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Old May 24, 2005 | 12:55 AM
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I might be in the market to.. TTT
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Old May 24, 2005 | 05:06 AM
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Usually about 35.00 but what ever you can get .
Put tape around the threads,to mark where the new ones should go .
It will save you an alignment right away.
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Old May 24, 2005 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Wright*Stuff
Hey guys,
Here's my questions for those comfortable giving their opinion, which will be much appreciated. Should I replace the tie rod ends and bushings or just the bushings? I found a price of $55 ea for Moog tie rod ends, is that good? Thanks in advance.Jason
I just agonized the same thing on my 90, started w/noise on pass. side, shock was loose, bushings had play, so while I was in there, tie rod end too. Next week I guess Ill just do the drivers side. MO is that while your in there might as well, as I dont really want to go through that same side again, at least not to soon. Yes as mentioned above, a reference point is a good idea (tape,or measure). Cant tell you about price but have used moog parts inthe past and have always had good results.
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Old May 24, 2005 | 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Wright*Stuff
Hey guys,

But, the play appears to come from the bushing and not the tie rod end itself. I purchased a Prothane bushing set and it includes this part.

Sincerely,
Jason
Jason

Maybe I've got this wrong, but there are no bushings on the tie rod ends. What you got with your Prothane kit is a dust boot.

How many miles are on your car. The rear tie rod also has inner rod ends that can wear and cause some sloppy handling. You can replace the rear tie rod assembl for around $125 and I would definately change the tie rod ends.
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Old May 26, 2005 | 06:09 PM
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Yeah, you're right. Just a case of the newbie's. When I moved the wheel at 3 and 9 I thought the bolt was moving. My thought was the dust boot was a bushing that was worn out. But, I looked at the Prothane kit and saw it was a dust boot. Then I jacked the car up and examined the wheel again and noticed the bolt did move with the wheel assembly, but the rest of the tie rod was stationary. So, new tie rod ends it is.

Jason
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Old May 26, 2005 | 08:07 PM
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I just had these replaced. The drivers side was toast causing the car to pitch slightly to the left under gas. The rear wheel felt loose also. I thought it was bushings or u-joints but Van Steel here in Clearwater diagnosed the prob accurately. Now it drives like new!
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Old May 26, 2005 | 11:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Wright*Stuff
Hey guys,
The play is visibly seen occuring where the tie rod and wheel assembly meet. But, the play appears to come from the bushing and not the tie rod end itself.
Bushing? No bushing there. Just a taper pin from the tie rod end to the Knuckle. The kit part you described is a tierod end dust cover?

Originally Posted by Wright*Stuff
Here's my questions for those comfortable giving their opinion, which will be much appreciated. Should I replace the tie rod ends and bushings or just the bushings? I found a price of $55 ea for Moog tie rod ends, is that good?
If your uncomfortable with the play replace both ends as a set. Remember to measure the end lengths or count the turns as each rod end comes off. Or get the the suspension realigned. You may also try to set the rear toe yourself, if your inclined to do so.


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