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The car; 94 Corvette LT1, 3.07 gears (auto trans).
I bought a used 94 LT1 engine (ebay) that was supposed to be 67K miles. When I got it there was rusty water pouring from the water pump, and it was a greasy mess.
I pulled the motor apart as everything is suspect, and I found a thick black waxy/oily substance on the heads/intake/block. So it's a rebuild job.
I have had the block cleaned/honed, crank polished and as soon asi I am finished porting/polishing the heads I will have the valves ground.
I want to install long tube headers and change the cam and go to the Delteq ignition.
Any comments/suggestions on:
Cam
Piston Rings
Main and Rod Bearings
Headers
This is a daily driver, no racing.
Thanks guys...
prattman
Bogus,
I have Crane Gold Race 1.6RRs.
Mains have been disposed of, too late to re-use.
Got ARP head bolts, will need to get rod bolts.
Thanks for the help.
Cam Comp 503 (similar to hot cam but a little more power)
Piston Rings Hayes, cast rings if stock pistons
Main and Rod Bearings Clevite or King (both good)
Headers What ever is on sale EM, Stainless, or TPIS are all great
Get a new oil pump and strainer (Stock pump will work great)
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Was the block bored? Are you replacing the pistons? Piston type will make a difference in ring choice. If using any kind of hyperutectic piston fit the rings very carefully and to spec, particularly the top one. Also get a new oil pump drive (up in the valley) and the oil pressure saver from More Performance. It's cheap insurance.
Corvette Kid NC, The block was not bored, we determined that it didn't need it. I intend to use the stock pistons.
My thinking is that with crank only being polished I should be able to use standard size main/rod bearings. Have not measured them yet.
Also with the block being honed and not bored, I think I can use standard size rings.
Thanks for your reply, any other advice is always welcome.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by prattman
Toy C4, FD2BLK, thanks for the advice.
Corvette Kid NC, The block was not bored, we determined that it didn't need it. I intend to use the stock pistons.
My thinking is that with crank only being polished I should be able to use standard size main/rod bearings. Have not measured them yet.
Also with the block being honed and not bored, I think I can use standard size rings.
Thanks for your reply, any other advice is always welcome.
prattman
I hope the bore was checked VERY carefully for size, out of round AND taper. They do not allow much on these specs. Make sure and buy a good quality ring made specifically for the LT1 pistons and size the rings per factory procedure and you'll be fine assuming all is within spec. Yes if the crank was only polished, standard should be fine. Generally if a crank hasn't worn visibly, it hasn't worn significantly but it still needs to be checked. Once again, for journals out of round, taper and correct size. GM HAS been know to use turned down cranks in new cars but I don't know if it was ever done on Vettes. I HAVE seen it in other vehicles from the general. Good luck.
Last edited by Corvette Kid; Jun 2, 2005 at 05:56 PM.
I wanted to bore .010 over, but could not find anyone locally to do it. They all want to bore .030 over.
I was a machinist (not automotive) a few years ago, still have most of my measuring instruments. I measured the bores, and then had the machine shop measure, and we concluded that the bores are good. this was a low mileage engine (67K). I was trying to avoid boring .030 over, as I wanted to be able to rebuild again in the future, and I wanted to re-use the pistons to help keep cost down.
I will get busy and measure/check the journals on the crank, as I have not done it yet. I never knew GM used anything other than new parts for new vehicles they build. What a surprise that is.
prattman
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by Timmy!
If you're doing Stage 3 heads, get a real cam instead of the run-of-the-mill (but very popular) Hot cam if you want to make some real power.
BUT..... if you want to make good power AND still have excellent driveability and mileage (with a proper dyno tune) than stick with the Hotcam. Current set-up... stock bore and stroke, 11.3:1 CR, Stage III heads, 425 HP 25-26 MPG hwy, 15-16 around town. Custom lightweight stroker in the works, STILL going to run the Hotcam.
if you have not got your head/cam package yet and are on a bugget you may look into Lloyed elliot. The F-body guys have had great luck with his LT1 head/cam packages and the prices are great. If I was building a stock bottom end LT1 his LE2 setup would be my choice.
Timmy,
Excuse my lack of knowledge, I don't know what stage 3 is. I am gasket matching and grinding/polishing the ports so the are like a mirror. I have one head almost finished.
Corvette Kid,
I think your advice is very wise, I will probably stick with the Hotcam.
okies93,
Hate to say it but I gave 1,900.00 expecting a low mileage engine in good shape. The thing looked like it had never been cleaned and I hat to beat the water pump off with a large hammer and chisel. It had rusty water (no sign of any coolant) coming out of the water pump, and there was a thick (.5 inch and more) waxy/oily buildup on the intake and heads (internally). Yes, I got shafted. The machine shop could not get the heads/intake clean, I had to do it myself...
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by prattman
Timmy,
Excuse my lack of knowledge, I don't know what stage 3 is. I am gasket matching and grinding/polishing the ports so the are like a mirror. I have one head almost finished.
Corvette Kid,
I think your advice is very wise, I will probably stick with the Hotcam.
okies93,
Hate to say it but I gave 1,900.00 expecting a low mileage engine in good shape. The thing looked like it had never been cleaned and I hat to beat the water pump off with a large hammer and chisel. It had rusty water (no sign of any coolant) coming out of the water pump, and there was a thick (.5 inch and more) waxy/oily buildup on the intake and heads (internally). Yes, I got shafted. The machine shop could not get the heads/intake clean, I had to do it myself...
FD2BLK,
Thanks for the info...
prattman
Stage I heads-port matching, a little pocket work and general clean up
Stage II-everything in stage I plus a more complete port job
Stage III-add oversize valves, coatings and other niceties.
The details can vary from vendor to vendor but this is the jist of it. Check out Precision Porting's website for a thorough explanation. It's in the sticky for their GP. I can also personally vouch for the quality of their work and excellent service.
19 for the eng you have described doesn't sound that bad, kinda has a deal ring to it. your description of work sounds good and besure to repost when or during the job. kinda curious to see how it turns out.