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I think it's just about toast. I spent some bucks, years ago, for the tools to do a DIY overhaul on a TH400. I R&Red the trans in my driveway and followed the book, as best as I could. Long story short... the car still didn't move after I was done. I was so PO-ed (at myself) that I paid a buddy who knows autos to do the job, including the second R&R. If I had been smart enough to realize my limitations, I could have saved myself some money. If you precede, good luck.
After my recent experience with the A4 rebuild I too would prefer to R&R it myself next time. I just had my 700R/4 rebuild with hardened parts, a new 2,000rpm TC and a TransGo shift kit to the tune of $2,100. And it took three tries and as many weeks to get it set up right.
I believe this would require the proper tools, the GM Shop Manual and the complete A4 manual. Even then I would expect to have to do it over again but that would be far better than paying a shop to screw it up. Also, if you buy parts from a good house their tech support line will be there when needed. I talked to a tech at TransGo about problems that the rebuilder had blamed on the shift kit and the tech was very helpful and informative.
I feel the biggest danger with doing an A4 for the first time is lack of a good image as to were eveything goes. And then there is the diagnostic & setup procedures. However, as with most things, "it ain't rocket science" and you can learn to do it.
My feeling is thus - I can rebuild an engine, why not a transmission?
I hope that it's not toast... but if it is... I will deal with that when the time comes.
thanks for the advise!!
1/2 the battle is having the confidence to do it. The first one is rough, the rest are easier. I would bet a shiny quarter that you can do it. The scariest part is the fear that a lip seal is ripped or pinched. The good news is all clutch packs are air checked. If they pass, they will work. You will have enough faith after the air check to know it will have all 4 gears. Hold your nose and jump. I am sure you will get good help here.
I did a Dodge 518 in my Jeep a year or two ago and it came out fine so I figured I'd do my 4l60e when it went a couple weeks ago.
After soft parts, hi po frictions and steels, a pump upgade, kevlar band, 5 pinion planetary, beast shell, transgo shift kit, input gear, sprag, super servo, upgraded separator plate, lo/rev clutch spring asm, servo release check valve, bushings, bearings, and thrust washers I'm out about $850 incl shipping.
One thing that impressed me was how relatively simple the 4l60e was compared to the 518.
Andy, the first time I experienced tranny trouble on my Dodge, I did a simple filter change. That fixed it. But about a month later it acted up again.
I've watched Tommy from Anger Management build trannies, that isn't something I want to try without someone like him supervising.
I know you already have the service manual, so that's half the battle.
He does it all from memory(because he does 3 or 4 a day).
Just be careful with where you get the parts. I visited his dealership one day and he was building a 4L60E for a C5 and one of his coworkers was building a 4L60E for a Camaro and both of them got bad pumps from two different sources. These were new parts.
Last year someone on the forum rebuilt their tranny-with their parts package they got a step by step video-said it was invaluable. I've done many a standard, but when it comes to autos-I'll leave it to the pros.
I am thinking I can get stock parts for about half the performance parts... that's affordable.
How long did it take you to do the labour? I am thinking one serious weekend and it would be done.
I will know more once I pour the seafoam in.
Once the trans is out and the exterior is cleaned, it takes me 12-16 hrs to dissassemble, clean, blueprint, and reassemble. I am sure a pro can do it quicker. Have a case of carb cleaner and a few cans of brake clean handy if you do not own a parts tank. The brake clean is a good idea even if you do have a tank. You will need a sheet of 400 grit sandpaper and some green scrubby pads for polishing the valves in the valve body. You also need feeler guages and a magnetic base and dial indicator to measure end play before rebuild and again after. The only real specialty tool you need is a teflon ring installer and sizer. This can be has for $100. A lip seal tool will be needed unless you use a .005 feeler guage instead. The tool is about $10. Most people do not own or use the $350 servo pin length checking tool. If the trans worked well for years and years the pin is usually good. Atsg manual is only about $15. Basically it is a reprint of the helms stuff with some footnotes added.
I found a local shop that does automatics only, Jay's Automatic Transmissions, here in Torrance. They can turn it around in 2 days, for about $1300.00 - if I remove it.
Seems cheap at the price. Less downtime, more drive time.
I will know more later today or tomorrow. When I mentioned a sticky governor, he agreed, that could cause a hesitant shift into OD, also, the problem eases as it drives a bit... which makes me think stuck up governor. If so, I expect some seafoam transmission flush would release that in no time.
I will know soon enough.
Keep you all posted! As I said, the car is in the garage right now, so once it gets home, I will start testing.
When I mentioned a sticky governor, he agreed, that could cause a hesitant shift into OD, also, the problem eases as it drives a bit... which makes me think stuck up governor. If so, I expect some seafoam transmission flush would release that in no time.
Better yet, yank the governor and give it a good inspection and free it up if it's balky. With the "seafoam" you will never know if, or how it worked. With the governor in your face, you can see what's going on. It could be a burr on a weight, a spring out of position, or even a problem with the governor drive gear, that the chemical can't work on.
i 2nd checking the governor and filter, i was having similar problems and was just about drop the trans for a rebuild when i decided to pop out the governor and saw the nylon gear had no teeth on it and picked a new one up for around 25 bucks. i have also known guys to have luck changing the filter. its cheap and easy to do yourself compared to a the price and work of a rebuild.
I am thinking I can get stock parts for about half the performance parts... that's affordable.
How long did it take you to do the labour? I am thinking one serious weekend and it would be done.
I forgot the torque converter :o - that's included in that price as well. The tear down took about four hours, no specialty tools needed. Already had a home-made spring compressor on hand (basically a bolt, couple of nuts, short piece of angle and a length of the right diameter pipe with a bar welded cross the top.)
It's been sitting for the last week or so while I find the time to get back to it.
Ya might even consider one from Ebay. There is like 1 or 2 builders on there that seem reputable. Order the correct one, swap them and rebuild the old one at a leisurely pace.(???) Go over there and type in something like 4L60 or 200r4 in the search field of car parts/transmissions. Read the ads and see what they include and do in the rebuilds.
Another thing is if you ask around and network enough, you will find a guy that has been doing them for awhile and does them on the side out of his home garage or someplace. I found a guy like that. VERY reasonable on prices and I've stood there as he meticulously blueprinted a trans.
Let us know how this turns out. Sounds like a trans swap party is coming up.
Shoulda done it when the engine was out. (am I the first one to say that?....-sorry)
*edit: I forgot to say that make note of the current shift points for comparison later.
Last edited by pablocruise; Jun 9, 2005 at 10:58 PM.
At this time, the transmission is gonna have to wait... thank God...
We went to pick up the car and before we left, I checked the plug wires (something bugging me, actually) and found that the #6 wire had fallen clean off! Reattached and all is ok...