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When changing the rotors on one of these cars, you're supposed to discard the two bolts that secure the caliper bracket to the knuckle, as per Helms. Those bolts are damn near $6 a piece at my local GM dealer! 8 bolts (two at each corner)... that could get expensive and Mrs. eschoendorff might start asking questions.
Does anyone reuse them? Maybe with some blue loctite?
I've reused them in the past with no issues. Just clean 'em up and put loctite on them, and you should be fine.
Depending on how the bolts are used, some one-use bolts are "torque to yield", which means you actually deform the bolt slightly when you install it. It has much lower strength if you try to re-use it. Other types of bolts are defined as one use because they have threadlocker pre-applied. That's the case for the caliper bracket bolts.
I've reused them in the past with no issues. Just clean 'em up and put loctite on them, and you should be fine.
Depending on how the bolts are used, some one-use bolts are "torque to yield", which means you actually deform the bolt slightly when you install it. It has much lower strength if you try to re-use it. Other types of bolts are defined as one use because they have threadlocker pre-applied. That's the case for the caliper bracket bolts.
Oh. Now that's some useful information. I figured that GM had its reasons.... but at $6 a bolt, I had to raise the question.
BTW... I didn't realize that my bolts lactate. Should I massage them gently before I remove them?
I followed the service manual and tossed them. They were much cheaper than that from Chris or GMPartDirect. Now the Circlips for the front pin THOSE are expensive.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
I bet it's CYA for GM due to the locktite. Better to charge more for bolts from Taiwan with locktite preapplied than to trust a service tech to do it right.
Its hard to say, then again they could be single torque bolts too. And considering its only that one bolt that secures the entire rear caliper, that tends to make it fairly important.
I figure they must have had good reason to state that in the service manual, so on those types of warnings I listen to them. Besides its not that much money. When I did mine, I install new pins, circlips and rear bolts. I think all the pieces where well under twenty bucks.
You should be able to re-use the bracket bolts two or three times then toss them. As mentioned, chase and the threads and apply BLUE locktite and torque to spec. If you were going thru lots of rotors for track days, I would replace them every other use.
Given the torque spec for the front bracket bolts, the bolt head may get rounded off quicker than the bolt itself will stretch or the threads get messed up. Definitely use a 6-point socket on them.
I bet it's CYA for GM due to the locktite. Better to charge more for bolts from Taiwan with locktite preapplied than to trust a service tech to do it right.
I used to work for GM. That's EXACTLY the mentality that they use. The other reason is liability. What happens if someone forgets to apply loctite, the bolts back out, the brakes come off, and someone dies? I know this sounds really silly, but I've actually seen GM get sued for reasons that were at least this stupid.
I've reused them without any problems on every car I've owned. I think the Pins are more important since once they're corroded, the caliper can hang up, but I usually just buff those up too and then reinstall them.
I used to work for GM. That's EXACTLY the mentality that they use. The other reason is liability. What happens if someone forgets to apply loctite, the bolts back out, the brakes come off, and someone dies? I know this sounds really silly, but I've actually seen GM get sued for reasons that were at least this stupid.
I understand the point your making, but the GM Service center should be sued if they performed the maintenance and didn't follow proper procedures causing damage or harm to the vehicle and owner. I wouldn't call that a stupid reason. Sometimes that is what it takes to make big companies make changes.
I mean that is probably a no-brainer to a good mechanic, especially if the understand the system and know that only one small bolt holds this assembly together. It should be torqued and locktite applied.
It would be an engineering process specification. During development they probably noted that the bolt was backing out over time and wrote a process spec to deal with it. I use to see this alot with aircraft systems, except on many of those critical fasteners, they wire tie them after torqueing them.
You should be able to re-use the bracket bolts two or three times then toss them. As mentioned, chase and the threads and apply BLUE locktite and torque to spec. If you were going thru lots of rotors for track days, I would replace them every other use.
Given the torque spec for the front bracket bolts, the bolt head may get rounded off quicker than the bolt itself will stretch or the threads get messed up. Definitely use a 6-point socket on them.
I thought you were supposed to use red thread lock formula (loctite) on stud bolts?
I've reused them in the past with no issues. Just clean 'em up and put loctite on them, and you should be fine.
Depending on how the bolts are used, some one-use bolts are "torque to yield", which means you actually deform the bolt slightly when you install it. It has much lower strength if you try to re-use it. Other types of bolts are defined as one use because they have threadlocker pre-applied. That's the case for the caliper bracket bolts.
These bolts just might be "torque to yield". Have you noticed in the service manual the torque spec is 166 lbs.ft.! Then I noticed in the back of the 5B2 section (rear brakes) it lists Bracket Mounting Bolt as 70 lbs.ft. which seems more reasonable for a bolt of this size.
I torque mine to 100 lbs.ft. with red locktite and never had a problem.
I thought you were supposed to use red thread lock formula (loctite) on stud bolts?
You could use the red loctite, but you need to apply heat to the threads to release it.
As far as bolt torque, the rear caliper mounting bracket bolts are torqued to a lesser amount (70 ft-lbs) while the front bolts are torqued to 165 (+/- 15) ft-lbs. 84-87 cars use a slightly lesser value on the front bolts.
If you follow GM's service manual for a '91 Vette and torque the front caliper bracket bolts to 166 ft. lbs. you'll snap the bolt! I just did. Chilton's and others recommend 133 ft. lbs. which is more reasonable for an aluminun bolt.