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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Oiling improvements
Here's what I'm looking at for my new bottom end for which I'm now accumulating parts. A Canton road race pan which will allow me to safely use a HV pump. Also considering an accumulator rigged for primed starts too. Pump and pickup recommendations? And are blueprinted pumps worth the extra $ for a mainly street but sometimes racer? RPM limit will be under 6500 RPM. Any other suggestions on needed improvements such as improving return flow, etc.? I'm already using the More Performance oil pressure saver, hardened shaft w/ steel coupler and will once again use a new pump drive as I did for the last build. I'm all ears and thanks in advance, Chris
Here's what I'm looking at for my new bottom end for which I'm now accumulating parts. A Canton road race pan which will allow me to safely use a HV pump. Also considering an accumulator rigged for primed starts too. Pump and pickup recommendations? And are blueprinted pumps worth the extra $ for a mainly street but sometimes racer? RPM limit will be under 6500 RPM. Any other suggestions on needed improvements such as improving return flow, etc.? I'm already using the More Performance oil pressure saver, hardened shaft w/ steel coupler and will once again use a new pump drive as I did for the last build. I'm all ears and thanks in advance, Chris
I personally don't think that a blueprinted pump is needed. You can blueprint your own pump. If you have a copy of Lingenfelters "How to build a SBC" or Smokey Yunicks book on the SBC there is a description on how to do this. Also in Johns book, he mentions modifying the rear main bearing shell to offer a little more oiling to the thrust bearing which allows it to take abuse and last much longer. And it is a very simple modification.
As for the pump pick up, I would use the Canton pick up that was designed for their pan and that pump that you are using. I have two sets ups just like yours in the shop waiting to go onto customers engines. On thing about the Canton pans, DO NOT use the factory GM pan support rails that go between the pan bolts and the pan. If you do it may leak at the bolt just in front of the dipstick buldge in the pan. I have had three of these pans leaking at this one point, and also on one forum members pan that recently emailed me about this. So this makes four pans leaking at that very same point, all of which was cured by removing the support or reinforcement rail.
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Originally Posted by bradvette
why would the use of a HV oil pump necessitate the need for a big fancy race pan?
There's debate on this matter and I don't claim to have the answer but some think that in extreme cornering conditions and even drag racing that a high volume pump, because it's moving more oil in a given period, stands to increase your chances of lowering the average oil level in the pan thus uncovering the pick-up and sucking air. Since I will be auto X-ing and drag racing on occasion, I prefer to err on the side of caution. I also wonder if I could install my own kick-outs on the side of my stock pan, as long as the stock baffling system is taken into account in the design and accomplish this just as well. I have plenty of room out to the sides w/ the DRM headers. More food for thought. I'm certainly glad I can take my time on this build (the car's not down like the last time) and figure it all out to my satisfaction. I've got all the main stuff either here or on the way, swing assembly and related. Now, if I could just find a 4 bolt block!