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Just finished a camshaft install, and did the 95/96 opti upgrade. Tried to start the car this afternoon, and it barley idles, sputters, and smokes. Does it sound like the opti was installed incorrectly, I could swear I installed it right? Would the car even run if the opti was installed wrong? I traced the plug wires on the passenger's side, and the are correct. I will need to pull a few things on the driver's side to check the wires.
Any other ideas, before I tear this thing back apart?
Is the check valve for the vacume installed correct? If not it will cause the cap to suck in and hit the rotor, ask me how I know. Try disconnecting the vacume lines and see if it helps,
Other then that I would think firing order
The vacuum lines would have nothing to do with it.
If you installed the Opti on the wrong slot (pin-wise) then it would be firing about 120 degrees off normal and bucking like a son-of-a-gun. So that may be a possiblility. It takes effort to install the Opti on the wrong slot. You'd have to really muscle it on. The correct slot is an easy fit.
Was the Opti a tough fit?
If not then you have to fall back on either cam timing or wiring.
Sorry to hear about the situation.
sounds like opti is right, i am leaning on crossed up plug wires. let us know either way. i am not sure if it'll help or not but i would double check wires are seated solid on opti.
Just finished a camshaft install, and did the 95/96 opti upgrade. Tried to start the car this afternoon, and it barley idles, sputters, and smokes. Does it sound like the opti was installed incorrectly, I could swear I installed it right? Would the car even run if the opti was installed wrong? I traced the plug wires on the passenger's side, and the are correct. I will need to pull a few things on the driver's side to check the wires.
Any other ideas, before I tear this thing back apart?
-Mike
Mike did you check the short wire harness between the opti and the main harness connector at the intake manifold. I think the early short harness was different in some what with the later 95 harness, I would have to compare the two together, but if memory serves me right the 92/94 harness had one less wire than the 95/97 LTx harnesses. I have both at the shop so I can take a look tomorrow if you haven't sorted this out by then.
I don't see how it can be done, but I've heard of people having the Opti-Spark installed with the pin in the wrong hole -- in fact, one magazine article stated they did exactly that.
The missing wire in the later Opti-Spark is just a ground wire for a shield that GM decided not to use on the later Opti-Spark harness.
Mike did you check the short wire harness between the opti and the main harness connector at the intake manifold. I think the early short harness was different in some what with the later 95 harness, I would have to compare the two together, but if memory serves me right the 92/94 harness had one less wire than the 95/97 LTx harnesses. I have both at the shop so I can take a look tomorrow if you haven't sorted this out by then.
Tom, my 94 has the same 4 wires as the new harness. But, I had to cut an alignment rib out of the inside of the opti harness to the engine wire harness plug.
The driver's side spark plugs are correct at the spark plugs. But, I may have reversed the order at the opti. I'll pull a few parts off this afternoon and check the plug wire order.
Also, I pulled the opti off breifly after it was first installed, I know for certain it was installed right at this time. Maybe when I put it back on it was misaligned. but, it slid right on.
Now I'm starting to second guess everything. Guess I'll see this afternoon.
Tom, my 94 has the same 4 wires as the new harness. But, I had to cut an alignment rib out of the inside of the opti harness to the engine wire harness plug.
The driver's side spark plugs are correct at the spark plugs. But, I may have reversed the order at the opti. I'll pull a few parts off this afternoon and check the plug wire order.
Also, I pulled the opti off breifly after it was first installed, I know for certain it was installed right at this time. Maybe when I put it back on it was misaligned. but, it slid right on.
Now I'm starting to second guess everything. Guess I'll see this afternoon.
-Mike
Mike if it slid right on you should be OK. Some people have installed them and indexed them wrong. But to do this takes considerable force as the indexing slots are made so that the pin really only fits into the correct hole. Hopefully it is just the plug wires on the opti end.
The vacuum lines would have nothing to do with it.
If you installed the Opti on the wrong slot (pin-wise) then it would be firing about 120 degrees off normal and bucking like a son-of-a-gun. So that may be a possiblility. It takes effort to install the Opti on the wrong slot. You'd have to really muscle it on. The correct slot is an easy fit.
I know for a fact that an obstructed return vacuum line can cause it to run like crap and cause the motor to stall. It causes the cap to suck in and hit the rotor, I know because I had the return line get pinched and that is exactly what happened and another member told me about it. With that said and rereading the post I agree that it’s probably not the problem.
I am sure you already have done this but double check all the sensors and anything (such as vacuum lines, EGR, Air tubes) that where disconnected during the install, a vacuum check with a gauge wouldn't hurt either.
I also haven’t seen anything on valve lash posted yet, are you fairly comfortable with your procedure for adjusting the rockers? I have seen problems similar to yours when the rockers where to tight.
Well, I pulled the opti, it was installed right. Also, the plug wires were in place. Checked the valve adjustments, had one intake a little loose. Started the car, same thing. Checked for codes, and got a code 33 high MAP. Let the car spudder for a few seconds to record some data, and my MAP values are staying in the ~90kpa range at idle. Could a bad MAP sensor cause my problems? Doesn't make sense that I wasn't having a MAP problem before this install.
well all be....guessing can get expensive. at least you check previous work and now you won't have to second guess yourself. from what you first posted i was leaning to a crossed wired, at least that is what it sounded like. it is kinda hard to believe something else could go bad just sitting there. got me on this.
also..good follow up.
Well, I pulled the opti, it was installed right. Also, the plug wires were in place. Checked the valve adjustments, had one intake a little loose. Started the car, same thing. Checked for codes, and got a code 33 high MAP. Let the car spudder for a few seconds to record some data, and my MAP values are staying in the ~90kpa range at idle. Could a bad MAP sensor cause my problems? Doesn't make sense that I wasn't having a MAP problem before this install.
Originally Posted by FD2BLK
Is the check valve for the vacume installed correct? If not it will cause the cap to suck in and hit the rotor, ask me how I know. Try disconnecting the vacume lines and see if it helps,
Other then that I would think firing order
Correct me if I am wrong here, but I think you just installed a vacuum vented Opti-Spark and now you are having MAP readings out of range.
My guess is the vacuum vent is the problem.
To prove it, temporarily plug the vacuum from the manifold (plug it at the manifold) for the Opti vacuum vent. If everything clears up, you need to address the problem with the vacuum vent on the Opti.
Tom Piper
Last edited by Tom Piper; Jun 13, 2005 at 07:37 AM.
Well, I pulled the opti, it was installed right. Also, the plug wires were in place. Checked the valve adjustments, had one intake a little loose. Started the car, same thing. Checked for codes, and got a code 33 high MAP. Let the car spudder for a few seconds to record some data, and my MAP values are staying in the ~90kpa range at idle. Could a bad MAP sensor cause my problems? Doesn't make sense that I wasn't having a MAP problem before this install.
Could be, just verify your MAP sensor readings using a good old fashion vacuum gauge. 90kpa is around 3 in. hg of vacuum.
Does the cam you installed have high valve overlap? If so your manifold pressure might be that high. It might just be a tuning issue. If it is then advancing your base ignition timing should help, also increase your idle speed.
Could be, just verify your MAP sensor readings using a good old fashion vacuum gauge. 90kpa is around 3 in. hg of vacuum.
Going to do that today.
Also, just remembered that when I had the intake off. I cleaned it with engine cleaner and a water hose. Dummy me, forgot to remove the MAP. I'm hoping it got wet, and a damaged MAP sensor is my problem. If not, I'm stumped.