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Well, things are rolling along. After the earlier misfortunes, things are looking up. Trans is getting freshened over the next few days. New torque converter is scheduled to arrive on Monday(tomorrow). Block is remachined and spitshined. Crank has been repaired, reground, shotpeened and magnafluxed. Only $125 spent on the crank . The cam is scheduled to arrive on Monday or tuesday at the latest. Comp Cams ground up the new one for me in record time. Pistons should have arrived last week. Hopefully in the next few days they too, will arrive. I spent saturday doing all the grunt work. Gasket scraping, scotchbriteing (if this is even a word) and spraybombing the small pieces. Hopefully it will fall together in the next week or 2. Gonna dyno it with a carb to work out all the gremlins. I have the drag racing itch real bad this summer. I can't wait to button everything up. Thanks for listening!
Little bit of advice...keep scotchbrite pads away from motors! The tiny debris that comes off those things are like grains of sand!
Even at work, since we supply GM with many different components, we recieved a memo stating that we were NOT to use scotchbrite pads nearor on ANY of their product.
It was a very technical report, and listed all the debris content left even AFTER parts cleaning etc. The main point is the "debris" that comes off them is perfectly small enough to go through the oil pickup and though most oil filters.
Just a word of advice. If the motor is properly hot tanked, it should be clean enough. For the gaskets, just use scrapers and brakecleaner on a shop rag.
Little bit of advice...keep scotchbrite pads away from motors! The tiny debris that comes off those things are like grains of sand!
Even at work, since we supply GM with many different components, we recieved a memo stating that we were NOT to use scotchbrite pads nearor on ANY of their product.
It was a very technical report, and listed all the debris content left even AFTER parts cleaning etc. The main point is the "debris" that comes off them is perfectly small enough to go through the oil pickup and though most oil filters.
Just a word of advice. If the motor is properly hot tanked, it should be clean enough. For the gaskets, just use scrapers and brakecleaner on a shop rag.
Great advise Jesse, thanks. They work so well it is tough not to use them. I do only use them prior to any cleaning and scrub the heck out of the parts after using them.
Hey Pete, refresh my memory but what was your set-up last motor as far as induciton? was it always a carb or no? are your cam specs a mistery?
I have been running a super ram since 95 or so. I plan on running it for a while. My friend that is helping with the rebuild owns an engine shop and an engine dyno. We are gonna run the motor in on the dyno for a couple of days, if needed, to be sure all is well. I am only running the carb on the dyno to keep things simple. The hp and torque numbers do not matter to me. I am a diehard dragracer and will see what it runs on the strip. I do not pay a whole lot of attention to dyno figures. The cam isn't a secret. I went conservative, as I usually do. The intake lobe has 224 @ .050 with 563 lift. The exhaust has 230 @.050 and 603 lift. Lobe seperation is 112. These figures closely resemble the crower cam that was in the motor before its 100 mile failure. Sop was excellent with the dual pattern crower. I went dual pattern to help out the spray. I usually go dual pattern anyway. I figure that I went a bit small on the cam but would rather error on the small side. On paper, it will run. We will see soon(I hope)
Glad to hear it's going back together. I guess you won't be ready for Numidia on the 18th for the rental?
Nope, no chance of the 18th. I may stop down and spectate though. Hopefully the 3rd time is a charm.
I found more decent good news. The trans is in great shape. 3-4 clutches are a bit burnt, lo-reverse clutches are quite burnt, but everything else is perfect. It died a peaceful death. A standard rebuild is all it needs, no little bs to make me crazy. I ordered a "beast" reaction shell for safetys sake. Cost to rebuild is $12 for fluid, $57 for the beast and $82 for the kit. $151 is definately affordable.
7-4-04
Finally got back to working on the 409. Some kid ran a red light and took out my daily driver. Feeling better and decided to get back to the motor build. Short block is mocked up, rings file fit, cam is degreed and it is waiting final assembly. Tomorrow, tues, I will start the final reassembly of the short block. It sure is nice to see the light at the end of the tunnel! Hopefully, as Rich said, 3rd will be a charm. My local track has been running a new quick 8 program. I hope to try for a shot at the field when all is said and done.
I hope it works out for you Pete.
You've had a real run of bad luck, heres to your motor and getting the good luck that should be coming to you!
Thanks! I guess luck is always relative to the situation. On one hand it has been am unlucky year. On the other hand it could always be worse. Pretty excited about the project, finally. I will post timeslips as soon as I run it.
Ohhh Baby! She is getting closer now. Short block is done. Cam degreed, pistons and crank in, cam endplay set, sheet metal on and tight. 1 cylinder head is lapped and springs set up as well. Another day or so and it will be on the dyno. Work just got super busy, Probably no dyno till next week. The light is getting brighter towards the end of the tunnel.
Just a thought. Are you running a 700r4? Corky and I both had our pumps shatter. Cork had just rebuilt his with 13vein pump and I had rebuilt mine last year with 13vein pump. Not sure if these pumps are as strong as standard pump.
I also had the metal piece that holds the 2-3 band in place shear off at the line. Not sure why - could be just age - 20+ year old.
This season I have had my tranny out 3 times and it does get easier
Just a few things to consider on a rebuild. I am running a 383 & Cork is running a 434.
Just a thought. Are you running a 700r4? Corky and I both had our pumps shatter. Cork had just rebuilt his with 13vein pump and I had rebuilt mine last year with 13vein pump. Not sure if these pumps are as strong as standard pump.
I also had the metal piece that holds the 2-3 band in place shear off at the line. Not sure why - could be just age - 20+ year old.
This season I have had my tranny out 3 times and it does get easier
Just a few things to consider on a rebuild. I am running a 383 & Cork is running a 434.
Thanks for the advise. I will look into the aftermarket to see if the band retaining pin is available. If not I will buy some new ones from gm and put them in every high powered 700r4 I build. I did not do the 13 vane pump, I simply re-vaned the stock 10 vane unit. All of the aftermarket pump kits seem to be made in China. I think gm went 13 vane in 97. I will check the dealer and see if the stock 13 vane parts are available for a reasonable price.
Pete a friend of mine lives near you and visits you once in awhile Bob Opachinski
Opie is a great guy. He stopped by to offer some encouragement over the past weekend. He is a devoted corvette guy. He has the cleanest c5 in town I am trying to get him to the dragstrip. I watch the sweat pour from his brow every time I suggest it.
Here it is, 11:00 pm friday and the motor is 1 hr away from the dyno. Gonna start fresh tomorrow am. I need to install the carb and intake, headers and water pump. Should start by noon and run the next 4 or 5 hrs on the dyno. I will have a mop handy just in case . I had trouble rounding up a decent intake manifold (to borrow) for the dyno pulls. You know times have changed when a small block carbed intake is scarce. I will post results tomorrow evening. Hopefully they will be positive.