The radiator replacement from last year is not doing it's thing. I do believe it is a two core radiator - would probably be the first of the problems, but I wonder what else it could be? I have an aux fan and it is running now all the time along with the main fan. My wife took the vette "up the hill" to Payson and it constantly ran 230 + with the AC on ---so she shut it off and turned on the heater...not much fun in 100+ degree weather but at least the water temp came down to 214. Any sduggestions?
Thanks,

 

No debris got up under that radiator shroud did it and block off any air? Fans are all working ok? I would change to a 160 degree T Stat. Cooling system been flushed lately? How's the water pump? Just a few ideas to try. GOOD LUCK I HOPE YA GET HER COOLED DOWN. Pipe

 

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...36&forum_id=34

 

Changing the thermostat, alone will not make the engine run cooler. The stat only controls the minimum operating temp, not the max. Once the stat is open, either at 160* or 195* (or whatever), it has no more influence over the operating temps, until the temps fall back down to the opening point of the stat. The engine temp will continue to rise, regardless of what temp the stat opened.



The factory radiator has an aluminum radiator core with one row of tubes. If you have a "two core radiator", essentially, you have two radiators. If you have a two row radiator core made from aluminum, you ave one of the pricey and VERY efficient after market radiators. Any over heating problems with a one or two year old two row aluminum radiator, are not likely the cause of the radiator, but serious problems elsewhere. If you have a two row copper/brass replacement radiator, the cheap, likely second rate, assembly methods are probably the cause of the over heating problems.

Make sure everything is clean, as it probably is in only a year, and make sure the fans come on when they are supposed to.

RACE ON!!!

 

It's a 2 row aluminum radiator and the fluids have been changed, I'm not losing any water/antifreeze until she is stopped and then it boils over. Fans are working fine, pulling a hill is the biggest problem in our 100+ degree heat. It just started getting hot the past month. Although I have never heard of a water pump losing efficiency except when leaking or having a broken impeller shaft....I'm at a loss. I wonder if I should look for a different, perhaps higher rate water pump, if anybody makes them. PS the heads were rebuilt 2 years ago but as said, I just strarted having this problem. Also, it's timed correctly, I think.?.?
Still thinkin'

 

So it's a Be Cool, Davis, or De Witts radiator? One of the $500.00+ rads? Something is seriously wrong. The first thing I would check is in front of the rad for debris. It really shouldn't be bad after only a year, but maybe you drove through a "plastic bag storm". You are right about the water pump. as long as the shaft is turning, the pump is pumping. There MAY be better pumps around, but their ability to circulate water doesn't degrade, significantly with age. Is the cooling system truly full? Properly burped? Has air got in during the off season? It wouldn't hurt to check the timing. Retarded timing WILL cause overheating.

RACE ON!!!

 

I just ordered a Be Cool, 2 row radiator for my 89. It was shipped out today. Will probably take 2-3 days to get here. I have a new (1 yr old) replacement aluminum radiator, new motor, new pump etc. Drove it to a rally of Vettes in Las Vegas over Memorial w/e with only 300 miles on motor. I got caught on the freeway going through Vegas and had to sit. Finally had to turn the air off until the traffic got moving again. Both fans are on a switch and that saved me. Moving, the temp. held around 195 with the air.
I asked forum members about Be Cool before I bought and had good feed back. Pricey, but better than the glare from the wife sitting in Vegas sun with no air on.
I live in the High desert in So. Cal. and in town driving is always a problem in the summer.

 

Did you or someone else install then new rad? I had a car one time that was over heating, pulled off the top rad hose and guess what I found? A shop rag! It must have been used to plug the coolant opening so there wasn't some dripping out. Removed rag and the car ran cool.

 

I'm confused...your vette is supposed to be around 195, hence the 195 Tstat...now 230 is a problem.


dumb question that no one asked... have you burped your vette? Just a thought

 

Check the radiator cap to make sure system is pressurized. Just a thought. I replaced the water pump before finding that the cap would not allow the system to pressurize.

Bob

 

A few things to check are:

1. As mentioned, burp the sytem and make sure that the system is full
2. Make sure there are no obstructions
3. Check the serpentine belt to make sure it hasn't stretched too much and replace if necessary
4. As mentioned, check the timing
5. Ensure that the fan shroud is clean
6. EGR problems can sometime lead to engines running hot
7. Waterpump replacement if necessary.

Good Luck

 

Have done most all of what's been mentioned here. Will check out a few other tips. Did notice that the AC condenser has some bent fins, but not bad...will straighten. Both fans are turning in the right direction. Still looking and thanks a lot guys.

 

Redline water wetter dropped my temp over 20 degrees When I had my tpi s-10. That stuff really works

 

I just had a 2 row aluminum radiator installed(Ron Davis) with Water Wetter. I took the trip up to Payson and never got over 176*. Yesterday it was 114* out and I never went over 200* in town. Are you sure that your themostat is even opening?

 

The thermostat....that is something I overlooked since I put a new one in last year....maybe it's sticking....Thanks & I might try water wetter.

 

I would start by cleaning the radiator out. I made a PVC contraption to fit onto my shop vac made with a straight 3/4" piece and a 90 that I can fit into the slot on the shroud on the pass side. This slot gives you access to area between AC and radiator. The rad looked clean until I vacuumed it and found enough dead grass cuttings to fill a large Zip loc. This alone lowered my operating temps on a 55 mph back road at 85 degrees with AC on down to 187 to 195 from 210 to 220.

 

Ihad same problem ,radiator cap helped.Some new radiator manafactures require the use of a different cap pressure wise.

 

I agree with CFI-EFI. Even with the stock radiator and only a single fan running, temps should be below 220 with the a/c on. The secondary fan, through '89 at least, is more of an electrical drag than a necessity. I'd check the accuracy of the gage first by scanning it. It may just be a faulty sending unit or display and you can compare the dash read out to the Coolant Temp Sensor. You can also verify that the fan comes on with the a/c on, though for your year, you really need a manifold gage set to test the fan switch - the ECM grounds the main fan relay at about 230 psi - a pressure it should see fairly quickly with the a/c on if it's 90 or above. It will remove the ground and turn the fan off at 170 psi, but again, if it's 90 degrees or better, it probably won't go low enough to reach this pressure. Not a bad idea to check the pressures anyway - especially if it's only getting hot with the a/c on as the system may be plugged up which sends operating pressures soaring and the higher the pressure, the higher the condensor temp. If the gage is accurate, a/c is in good shape and the fan is coming on when commanded by the ECM, then suspect an airflow problem or even exhaust leaking into the coolant, especially if it boils over after shutdown.

 

More to check....glad you guys are bringing up things I haven't thought about in years....keep it coming, I'm gonna find the cure or ?