94 LT1 plug change-tips?
Any tips anyone might can offer to save me some blood and sweat would be much appreciated.
I wonder if pulling the front wheels and removing the wheel cowlings will make the job easier on the driver's (or both) side? Getting under the car isn't an option the way my driveway is angled.


Don't forget the anti-seize compound for the plugs. Personally, I like the NGK TR55 plugs.
Remove the plug wire boot by turning about a 1/2 turn and then pull out. Don't pull on the wire itself
The # 7 plug (back on driver's side) is a bit difficult to get to but if your spzrk plug socket has a hex end, a long combination wrench is a big help. Plugs 6 and 8 on the passenger side are simply a PITA. Again the spark plug socket with a hex end is a big help but it just takes time to get them out.
The engine has to be COLD to remove the old plugs. If it's hot or overly warm, you risk stripping the threads in the aluminum heads. You do not want that to happen!!
Plug gap is .050 on the LT1 if you are using a standard type of plug. A lot of plugs are pre-gapped for specific applications but it's a good idea to chekc them anyway. Use some anti-seize on the new plug threads and carefully thread them in by hand making sure the plug is going in straight. The plugs are torqued to only 15 ft-lb so a lot of pressure is not required to get the plugs tight.
I like the NGK TR55ix Iriduim plugs too. They are pricey compared to a typical platinum-tipped plug (stock type) but they did provide a slight improvement in MPG at cruise speeds.
The # 7 plug (back on driver's side) is a bit difficult to get to but if your spzrk plug socket has a hex end, a long combination wrench is a big help. Plugs 6 and 8 on the passenger side are simply a PITA. Again the spark plug socket with a hex end is a big help but it just takes time to get them out.
Remove the plug wire boot by turning about a 1/2 turn and then pull out. Don't pull on the wire itself
The # 7 plug (back on driver's side) is a bit difficult to get to but if your spzrk plug socket has a hex end, a long combination wrench is a big help. Plugs 6 and 8 on the passenger side are simply a PITA. Again the spark plug socket with a hex end is a big help but it just takes time to get them out.
The engine has to be COLD to remove the old plugs. If it's hot or overly warm, you risk stripping the threads in the aluminum heads. You do not want that to happen!!
Plug gap is .050 on the LT1 if you are using a standard type of plug. A lot of plugs are pre-gapped for specific applications but it's a good idea to chekc them anyway. Use some anti-seize on the new plug threads and carefully thread them in by hand making sure the plug is going in straight. The plugs are torqued to only 15 ft-lb so a lot of pressure is not required to get the plugs tight.
I like the NGK TR55ix Iriduim plugs too. They are pricey compared to a typical platinum-tipped plug (stock type) but they did provide a slight improvement in MPG at cruise speeds.
. Also, I've ran into problems with my spark plug socket getting "stuck" in the head, so I ground the outside of the socket down quite a bit. The plug would be turned just right in the head and wedge the socket up against the side and I couldn't pull it off without backing the plug out some. Hope this helps.KC
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