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Overheating oil??

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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 02:32 AM
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Default Overheating oil??

The water temp on my stock C4 has started to run hot, about 217-220 degrees but I noticed the oil temp is also hot. Can anyone tell me what the usual oil temp is on a C4?
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 02:40 AM
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Originally Posted by nvvetgirl
The water temp on my stock C4 has started to run hot, about 217-220 degrees but I noticed the oil temp is also hot. Can anyone tell me what the usual oil temp is on a C4?
what type of driving are you doing? my water temp is inline with yours if im just cruising. it cools down on the hwy to about 195. as far as oil goes, mine fluctuates between 200-230 during normal to spirited driving. what year is your car and what kind of driving are you doing? what are temps outside? a little more info and im sure someone on here can let you know if your temps are out of line.

randy
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by nvvetgirl
The water temp on my stock C4 has started to run hot, about 217-220 degrees but I noticed the oil temp is also hot. Can anyone tell me what the usual oil temp is on a C4?
Those temps are nothing to worry about.
Your main fan probably comes on at 228 degrees, the aux fan at 238 degrees.
Over 240, start worrying.
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 06:33 AM
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you can run your oil temps up to 300.
the coolant about 240.
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by larryfs
you can run your oil temps up to 300.
the coolant about 240.
I've been as high as 260 with oil, but never more than 235 on coolant.
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 08:05 AM
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Each car is different. Mine runs coolant at 70 mph at 190 and the oil temp at the same speed at 197-200
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 09:06 AM
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run you car at 70mph, in 3rd gear for 5 minutes. you'll see the oil temps hit about 260-270. the RPM's usage is what determins your oil temps.
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 12:09 PM
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Default Overheating oil

Thanks everyone. I'm driving an 87 in southern Nevada, stop & go city traffic. Usually over 100 here in summer. Any ideas on good aftermarket stuff to cool everything down?
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 12:45 PM
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Default Hi temps

I had the same problem with my '89 in Phoenix. Daily temps were around 105-110. My water temp was 240-250 and actually exceeded the 261 degree temp the manual indicates is bad to go over. At that point, I took it in and the shop pulled the radiator and determined the radiator was constricted due to sendiment. A new thermostat and couple hundred dollars later for a new (non-aluminum) radiator, it was consistently running around 200 degrees. Made the trip from Phoenix to Colorado Springs and never exceeded 210 degrees. Haven't had a problem with city driving either...no probs since...I'd recommend passing on the aluminum radiator unless you are doing something other than normal driving...they tend to run around $450 and up...

hope this helps.
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 01:28 PM
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Running back at a steady 95mph through Arizona earlier in the week, I saw outside air temps up to 116, my water temps were pretty consistent at 197-198 and the oil temps seldom varied from 212.

Larry
code5coupe
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by nvvetgirl
Thanks everyone. I'm driving an 87 in southern Nevada, stop & go city traffic. Usually over 100 here in summer. Any ideas on good aftermarket stuff to cool everything down?
As it appears you realize, city/slow driving and idling is the problem. Driving from Phoenix or Las Vegas, to Hades and back, at highways speeds, proves little. First, your temp are not abnormally high. You really have nothing to worry about. A little PM (preventive maintenance) never hurts. The radiator should be flushed and filled with fresh coolant every two years. If that hasn't been done, this would be a good time. The C4s suck their cooling air from below. Unfortunately, they suck up anything and everything, available along with it. As a part of your flushing process, it would be a good idea to remove the radiator, and clean the area between the front of the rad and behind the A/C condensor. That area fills up with leaves and other road debris and blocks the air flow through the radiator, frustrating the cooling process. See how that affects your coolant and oil temps. More CAN be done, but in your case, I doubt it's necessary.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 08:05 PM
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220 in stop and go is normal but yes it'd be nice to see it lower. On my car turning on A/C at a stop light turns the fan on cooling the car. You could try some Redline or etc. water wetter to transfer heat faster. A manual fan switch could help. Have you sprayed off your radiator front/back, checked for debris? Coolant old? I check my radiator with hose in hand once a month. I wouldn't worry about 220 but I wouldn't want my oil/water temp. at 220 ALL the time either. Extra wear.
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
but I wouldn't want my oil/water temp. at 220 ALL the time either. Extra wear.
Not true. Especially for the oil temp. The wear and tear comes from oil that is contaminated with condensation and acids from cold starts that hasn't had time to boil off. I'm a little uncomfortable if my oil temp isn't at least 220°.

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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 09:11 AM
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So heat has nothing to do with wear? Why do many cars come with oil, and trans, coolers? Boil off can occur under 220°, yes? I agree temps sometimes should be high enough to boil out the contaminates.

http://performanceunlimited.com/docu...tempguide.html
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
So heat has nothing to do with wear?
I never said that.


Originally Posted by Aardwolf
Why do many cars come with oil, and trans, coolers?
Except for automatics, most don't. The biggest risk of high lubricant temps, is that they break down at high temps. Then they can't do what they were designed to do. Your oil will be contaminated and the additives lost and/or worn out, long before your engine oil is hurt by being run at no higher than 220°.


Originally Posted by Aardwolf
Boil off can occur under 220°, yes? I agree temps sometimes should be high enough to boil out the contaminates.
YES! Boil off can occur at temps less than 212°, also. But the higher the temp and the more quickly it is reached, the faster the boil off. Too many cars don't run long enough, hot enough to get the job done. Low temperature thermostats that open early and prolong the warm up process only aggrivates the situation.

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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 04:34 PM
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mobil 1 oil is not breaking down at 220 temps, or even 250 temps, or even 300 temps. many people who do track events have ran their oil to 290's-300 and oil test show the oil is just fine afterwards.

I routinly run my oil temps to 280 at the track. hasn't blown up yet
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 05:34 PM
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You said that you disagree that high heat does not cause extra wear. Yes? More heat = less power = more wear. A hot (or to cold) engine is less efficent, having to work harder, this would create more wear then an engine in it's optium temp. zone. Yes?
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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Aardwolf
You said that you disagree that high heat does not cause extra wear. Yes?
NO! I did not. If you think I did, point out where.

That whole last post is a lulu.

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Old Jul 8, 2005 | 10:45 PM
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Heh, he said lulu
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 07:52 AM
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How many degrees does the oil have to be when the red light comes on? I know for the coolant, it is 260 *F.
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