When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Measure the resistance across the chip in the key and buy a 1/4 Watt resistor of the same resistance at Radio Shack.
Then remove the LH hush panel, locate the small connector with the small Red & Yel wires and jumper, open the connector, jumper the resistor across the contacts and start the engine.
If that cures a no start problem, have the key and/or lock cylinder replaced.
Note that on a vehicle with a DS air bag you need to be careful in removing the steering wheel.
Scary it makes it hard to help you if you keep starting new threads.People can't follow what you have done.Try to stick with this one till you get it running.I would suggest a short run down of what you have done (Including codes)so far to get it all in one thread.In an earlier thread you said you HAD spark,How did you determine that?
Have you cleared your codes and rechecked them after trying to start it?
Did you recheck your installation of the opti in the first place?
I told you it was possible to install it wrong.
Please recap your trouble here and answer the questions and I am sure someone will get her runnin.
Redeasysport - I agree with your point but as this problem has progressed the symptoms have changed. I was trying to keep to the old one but the title was regarding the optispark, but the part in question is no longer that...
Someone who had problems with their Ig module may never have looked at the other thread. I was hoping for a quick answer to this question to post back in the main thread.
Can you change the title of an established thread? That might help.
Anyway, I did clear codes and re-check and the same ones exist. (28 and 66). The QDM circuitry is in the ECM itself so I had hoped that my ECM swap would be the answer.
I did go over thoroughly the opti install on tuesday and found that I had a problem but rectified it. I checked spark with a spark tester at the plug end of the wire and had it but it seemed a little weak.
The other thread remains active, I just hadn't received any thoughts on the ignition module on it.
65Z01, I did bridge the VATS system, to redeasy's credit it's explained in my other post...thanks for the suggestion.
As I understand it, the IC module on LTx's cannot be tested off the car. The only way I know of to test the IC module is to determine if spark is coming off the coil. A much more thorough test would be to swap IC modules with one that you know works (like a buddy, or for the less honest just swap in a new one and see what happens, most likely no auto parts store will ever know).
-DAve
If you do replace it, be sure and coat the back of the module with that little packet of thermal-transfer grease compound.
This thin layer of grease improves the transfer of heat produced by the module to the housing and is very important to the life of the module. (Do not confuse common dielectric grease with this thermal-transfer grease. They’re completely different.)
If you do replace it, be sure and coat the back of the module with that little packet of thermal-transfer grease compound.
This thin layer of grease improves the transfer of heat produced by the module to the housing and is very important to the life of the module. (Do not confuse common dielectric grease with this thermal-transfer grease. They’re completely different.)
I asked the salesman about the grease and he suggested dialectric...I thought it sounded fishy to me.
I asked the salesman about the grease and he suggested dialectric...I thought it sounded fishy to me.
Thanks for the tip.
Yeah, your ignition module will die horribly without it. You can get that thermal transfer grease at Radio Shack or most electronic repair or computer repair stores.
I meant left if you're facing the front of the engine with the hood raised. Mine's on the right (passenger side) too. I think they all were in LT1/4 Corvettes.
I have silicone heat sink paste for installing micros onto motherboards (PC's). Same thing I need for this? I assume so...
The heat sink compound that came in the box with the new ICM when I bought one was thicker than the PC processor heat sink stuff. Also, the white stuff Radio Shack sells is too thin and runny as well.