Try starting your own thread and you may get answers to your questions

 

I just had to put a brand new complete distrubutor in my 93 lt1
The car woud lose spark on #1 when it got hot and create a bad mis fire. The bearing that the shaft goes thru in the dist. was bad making the rotor rub on the cap. Why it was only #1 cyl???? but it fixed the probelm.

 

So now it is time to work again on the vette.
The Dynaspark has arrived. First impressions: it looks nice, it is a quality optispark with a lot of new details that make it look a little bit different from the original.

This looks like a nice engineering piece of work. No place for improvisation here. But now comes the fun part.
Installing it and at last driving again the vette.
I will keep you all posted.

 

Be sure to read the installation instructions from front to back and follow them to the *exact* letter, taking special care to fully double-check all of your mechanical fitment directions against the specs we include in the documentation. We can't stress enough how *VERY* specific and *ADAMANT* we are about this....

Some folks have tried to deviate from our installation instructions or did not bother to check their fitment specs against the information we provide in the documentation and, well...they found themselves walking along the side of the road with pre-mature distributer failure......... Don't follow suit in doing this~ your Corvette will thank you for it and your life will be a LOT easier!


Best Regards,
DTE

 

Anybody have a Optispark timing wheel laying around? I'm trying to find out how the high resolution slots are centered relative to the low resolution slots. For example, for the low resolution slot of 7 degrees, I guessing that the 7 slots on the high resolution side is centered to the high resolution slot. See representatve squarewave outline below:

hi res _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_
lo res: ___----------------_______
|| offset ||
centered

I have no idea if the figure will come across once I submit my message. Anyway, the reason I'm asking, I think I've figured out a way to do the switching to LS1 coils for under $40 bucks plus my time. Thanks.

 

Maybe this can help.
Low resolution are the 4 little ones.

Second picture is the metal part from the rotor that got loose and got stuck in the cap, third picture is the broken rotor.

I am sending those pictures just to let you know that in my case failure has been because of a weak or bad manufactured rotor.


[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG] [IMG][/IMG]

 

WOW that is ugly Kinkajou.

 

We've seen this type of failure MANNNYYYY times before... We know from experience that the cause for that failure in that photo is/was due to a failure in the proper venting of the unit in some fashion. There has been some sort of airflow restriction with the free-breathing of the unit, which then causes the distributer cap to be drawn into the spinning rotor, effectively melting it from the excessive frictional heat created between the moving parts. That is NOT the rotor's problem, that is a venting issue.

Causes:
1. Both vacuum hoses have been incorrectly connected to a manifold vacuum source.

2. The vacuum hoses were incorrectly connected backwards.

3. If the hoses were connected properly, the fresh-air air duct vacuum hose has been kinked, restricted or blocked somehow, which also causes an airflow restriction, therefore preventing proper airflow within the unit leading to the failure described earlier in this post.

4. If the dist. is a Gen I, the lower three venting holes have been restricted with trash, rust, corrsion particles, etc, causing the above described condition.


Proper vacuum hose placement/dist. venting is *ABSOLUTELY* critical that it is done properly. If it not, you WILL have an O.E. premature distributer failure, even with our product. We can completely garauntee that with a 100% certainty probability.

FYI for those interested.


Best Regards,
DTE

 

Because of all the frustration that came with the opti, I sealed it with silicone, Industrial grade and made a venting sistem a little like the one in corvette magazine. Then in the venting holes ( 3 ), I made them a little bit larger. 2 were used for vaccum from the manifold and the other one was for positive air.
One of my theories was that vaccumm was so strong that the cap could have sucked in and touched the spinning rotors. The other theory was just that the plastic " rivets " deteriorated and the piece got loose.
Will put picture later for you to see.

 

Wrong way to do it that is why you had trouble.The venting has to be cross vented not side by side.I showed you a picture of the right way I believe.Look at my pics.Either a hole must be made in the cap or it needed to be swaped with a 95 cap.Also the vacuum hoses must be correct reversing them will do it too.The air in should come from above the rotor and the vacuum from behind the rotor to keep it from being sucked up towards the cap.

 

So today was the testing day. I assembled the car , checked , torqued, reviewed every detail.
With the Dynaspark installed as the instructions said and crossing my fingers I started the car.

Perfect idling! Started inmediatly. Got the car to temperature and took it for a little ride around the block.
Everything went smooth, acceleration was perfect, car temperature nice ( 220 degrees). Acceleration transitions where just great, no stalling, indecision or anything.

I took it for a longer drive and got it to a little more speed and it was incredible.
I really missed driving my Vette and now it responds perfect to every comand. I am amazed at the smothness ,it is even more responsive than my Kawasaki ZX7 which is by no means slow, but the Vette makes it look like a Moped!

I will take some final pictures of the way I hooked the vacuum hoses just to be really sure I did it right and did not get confused.

Vaccum hose line with the little valves went to the mannifold sharing a port with another little vaccum hose, the other Dynaspark line ( hose) was attached before the throttle body.

So far , so good! Finally I think I got it right.

 

It made a big difference on my starts and idling too.

 

My opti crapped out this weekend, gues I'll be calling them, cheapest I've seen so far.

 

I would not buy an OEM optispark again. It seems like the failures I had would have an origin in the way I connected the venting system, but for the work involved in changing the opti I would really go for a better system.
I just upgraded to a Dynaspak unit, it is very soon to let you know how I like it. But as for now, I am impressed in the manufacturing details of the opti, and the car works like a dream now.

Good luck!