Hello everybody.

I am new to the forum, living in Mexico.
I am having problems for the second time with the Optispark. Need some straight forward advise.
I installed a new OEM Optispark and lasted for about 4 weeks.

I am considering to buy a Dynaspark opti, anyone has experience with it? I mean, does it need special requirements to be installed? Or is it a replacement that can be bolted on as the original.
The price is not so bad if you consider that GM will sell me the original Optispark in Mexico for about $950 US dlls!!
It is very expensive in Mexico so I have to make a decision based on experience. Please advise!!!

The car was running great at the road, but suddenly stopped after hard acceleration. Engine cranked but no start condition. Checked spark at spark wires without result. So I checked spark at coil and it was OK. So I think that the spark is not passing through distributor to spark wires. I asume that maybe the rotor is broken!
Is there a way to check with a multimeter if the Optispark is functional? I have the Service manuals but there is nothing on that. By the way there are no trouble codes!

I have read posts on optispark VS Dynaspark and I am more confused than ever!!
Thank you for the advise!

 

Do a search on the DynaSpark and you should find a lot of discussion on the subject. In general, I think the Dyna and other simular units are the way to go when your opti finally goes, but they are kind of expensive (about the cost of 2 optis). If GM parts are costly in Mexico, I would even think about another opti, go for the Dyna.

 

I just paid ~$217 for a new GM opti From Dal at Vandevere Olds. Try giving him a call, maybe they will ship to Mex.

1-800-362-9494

 

I searched information on the Dynaspark and the went directly to the source. It seems to be water tight, and maybe this should be the way to go. I read in the forum that it required special preparation to install but they told me that it was a bolt on aplication, just like the OEM unit. It sounds great.

Hope that some Dynaspark users could tell their experience; that is long term to try to see if it is as reliable as they say.


Thanks

 

It's always a good idea to mention the year of the vehicle so others can give more concise information.

Also, do you know if the failures are related to the optical section (usually gives trouble-codes for low-res or high-res pulses) of the high-voltage section (usually no trouble-codes)?

If you vehicle is a '95 or later, make sure the cam dowel pin is not too long. This will cause premature failure of the Opti-Spark and the Dynaspark by destroying the bearing.

Here is a good thread:
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showt...wel+pin+length

Tom Piper

 

I have the dynaspark. I've only got about 5000 miles on it since I put it in. Works great. I no longer have to worry about the engine getting wet.

It's more expensive - but for the earlier models (92-94) the benefit is greatest.

The differences in installation:
1. The pigtail on the dynaspark replaces a short piece of the standard wiring harness. You have to take that connector apart and add the wires from the dynaspark to the factory connector. The instructions on this are clear. This eliminates corrosion at the plug on the top of the opti.
2. The dynaspark incorporates a cross flow ventilation setup. You need to make a small hole in the bellows between the air filter and the throttle body. A fitting goes in there that is the source of the air in the cross flow. The vacuum side of the thing is attached to the manifold. They don't supply the vacuum T's and such to do this - so you have to pick up those parts at the local auto parts store.

Other than that - it's the same installation.

Is it worth it? Definately if you have the earlier model - as those stock parts are the most expensive ~$350 or so. The delta to $600 is less. And you have the most to gain. If I had a 96 - I would have stuck with stock.

 

Well, I forgot to tell. It is a 1994 Corvette coupe with standard transmision and has about 43000 km in the odometer. It should be about 26718 miles.
I really do not know how to test the optical part. I can only imagine that the the problem is with the high voltage part because there are no trouble codes + my little test: no spark coming from the spark plug wires but sparks are generated from the coil. So the spark must be lost in the distributor itself. I assume that the probable culprit is the rotor, because the cap looks nice.
I will take out the optispark from the car tomorrow to inspect it. I am having a little bit of trouble to get the balancer out because I can not stop the crankshaft from rotating when I try to loosen the bolts that hold the balancer.
I want to thank for all the very usefull coments.

 

Shift the transmission into any gear. This will stop the crankshaft from rotating.

 

I left the belt on to loosen the balancer bolts and wedged the Alt. fins to keep it from turning on the pulleys.
I have the Dynaspark on my 93 and have washed the engine 3 times with no trouble( I don't recommend this I had overspray I was removing).
It is a very good product.

That being said I would be concerned as to why your Opti failed.You really need to know the answer to that. If it was just because it was installed wrong or there is obvious water damage inside it might be ok to replace. If the bearings or rotor is broken(If you do not run above 6000rpm) then you need to think about why. Another forum Member went through multiple optis including a Dynaspark only to fine what I believe is a timing chain/gear problem as the source. Good Luck

 

If the optical section of the Optispark was misbehaving, it should be throwing a code or two.

I have the DynaSpark on my stock '94 6-speed. I was told that, so long as my engine was stock with no mods, the DynaSpark was a direct bolt-on. If the cam, etc, have been changed, there are numerous measurements that you are supposed to take before you install the DynaSpark. Mine bolted right on, with no problems, and I've since driven the car over 5,000 miles. So far, I'm very satisfied with it. It's a far better unit than the first-generation OEM units are.

STL94LT1 is correct -- put the car in first gear, set the emergency brake, and the crank will not turn while you break loose the bolts on the harmonic damper. I would not recommend wedging the alternator vanes, since you have a 6-speed.

mitchcole also gives good advice about the vacuum tee, etc. I went to the auto parts store and bought an assortment of tees and 90-degree elbows, and that helped me a lot as I routed the new vacuum lines, etc.

Good luck.

Be well,

SJW

 

Psst...Delteq!

 

Hello.
Well, I have news. After removing the optispark and opening it I found that the problem was caused by the rotor.
It was completely destroyed and the little metal part was separated from the rotor and embedded in the plastic of the rotor cap betweet two metal points.
I know that the opti failed while I was accelerating heavily, but the engine cuts itself if the revolutions are too high. It is a non modified engine.
I have some theories on this: I sealed perfectly the optispark with high temperature silicone and installed a vacum line. I drilled a little the venting holes on the bottom of the optispark and installed a connector with a hose that went to the manifold. I did not drill the rotor cap because I thought I would make it brittle. Maybe the vacum sucked the rotor cap and then the rotor made contact and destroyed itself.

Have anybody experienced this problem? I am thinking on using the Dynaspark but I am afraid that this happens again. What would be probable causes?

 

By the way I took pictures of the opti, so If someone wants to see them I can send them over.
I was thinking on the timing chain but I assume that once the opti is in place ant the bearings are new there would be no problems.

Also, Is there a way that I can program the computer so that the engine is cut off earlier? I would loose a little power but maybe protect a lot the engine.

Thanks again

 

I'm curious if there's a service that can check an optispark to be sure it functions properly. I installed a new Opti when I rebuilt my 97 LT1, just to find the waterpump leaked. It only has 4K miles on it and would not mind paying to have it tested and repaired if need be. Anyone know of anything like this available? Otherwise it's another $200 for a new opti...

 

One word...."Delteq!"

 

End your opti woes.

 

Dude,I didn't read the entire content and can suggest the cheapest oem parts for vettes at WHOLESALEPARTS4U.COM.They are a chevy dealer inPennsylvania and only sell at a large discount if you mention the wholesale website or order directly thruogh them.The best prices for oem GM parts without a doubt

 

Their prices are not that great $499 for an optispark is highway robbery

 

I've said it before and I'll say it again.

Delteq and LTCC DO NOT REMOVE THE OPTISPARK FROM THE EQUATION, they remove a PORTION of the optispark from the equation, the high voltage side. If the high voltage side is the problem this will tend to manifest itself in the form of a misfire, not a no start situation.

The exception to this of course would be a broken rotor, which seems to only happen under high RPM operation.

The first thing I would do is examine the cause of failure, then figure out how you want to fix it. If something is causing the opti's to fail you're just throwing money away if you continue to replace them.

 

My car ran great but after breakin there would be a bad stumble during WOT, around 5K rpm but not allways. Also, the idle was high and sounded erratic, like a miss. We checked the valvetrain, no loose rockers (Hotcam kit), No starting problems, and checked spark 1 plug at a time. And again all problems were intermittent. I did notice the water pump would accasionally leak from the bottom spout, leading me to worry about the Opti. The PCM did not throw any codes when scanned and has a tune from madz28 (the motor is a 97 z28 LT1)

Would a reprogrammed PCM stop it from counting error codes like misses?

I am going to have the motor checked by my machinist before I reinstall it in the car (leakdown test to be sure no sticking valves) and would like to be sure my practicly new Opti is good before I bolt the front accessories back on and out it in my 70 vette I'm building.

Again, any way to 'test' the opti or have it tested? If did did get wet, (over 8 months ago when my car got spashed) is it OK now?

Looking for advise, and not "go spend $500"

Thanks in advance