DELTEQ plug wire options?
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,927
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
DELTEQ plug wire options?
Has anyone bought aftermarket wires from the company DELTEQ recommends. I would like to get pretty red ones, and I would like some that "click" when they go on.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 1,109
Likes: 2
Hi Steve, I understand that you where having bad luck with your optispark and went through several units.
I am experiencing some similar problems. The rotor is the part that fails and gets destroyed.
I read that you used Dynaspark units and now are using the Delteq system.
COuld you advise me on what to use? Is Delteq a reliable solution? I have the opti down so I can open it and remove what is left of the rotor and install a Delteq. What do you think?
Sorry to ask all this , but it seems that you are the person that has the knowledge based on experience to give good advise.
Thank you and good luck!
I am experiencing some similar problems. The rotor is the part that fails and gets destroyed.
I read that you used Dynaspark units and now are using the Delteq system.
COuld you advise me on what to use? Is Delteq a reliable solution? I have the opti down so I can open it and remove what is left of the rotor and install a Delteq. What do you think?
Sorry to ask all this , but it seems that you are the person that has the knowledge based on experience to give good advise.
Thank you and good luck!
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,927
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
The Dynaspark system is fine. I found the problem, and it was me.
To make a long story short, the crank is drilled four inches in the front, unlike the factory 2 1/2 inches. So, to use the Kent Moore tool, I needed to add spacers within the crank bolt area to allow the tool to uninstall and reinstall the hub. I used hardened ball bearings, and somehow one got in between the hub and crank where they would meet at the front of the crank, flat surface where the hub/crank meet. I thought my magnet had pulled the bearings out.
So what this did was not allow the hub to go on all the way, allowing the reluctor ring to rattle and cause vibration. Thats all that I can see. The Opti is weak, but having a vibration like that go through the timing chain to the otpi probably put some undo stress on the Dynaspark/Opti. I am now repairing it , slowly as I really am in no hurry to get back on the road, and am waiting for the parts to arrive, new ED timing chain.
So, in a nutshell, I screwed up.
To make a long story short, the crank is drilled four inches in the front, unlike the factory 2 1/2 inches. So, to use the Kent Moore tool, I needed to add spacers within the crank bolt area to allow the tool to uninstall and reinstall the hub. I used hardened ball bearings, and somehow one got in between the hub and crank where they would meet at the front of the crank, flat surface where the hub/crank meet. I thought my magnet had pulled the bearings out.
So what this did was not allow the hub to go on all the way, allowing the reluctor ring to rattle and cause vibration. Thats all that I can see. The Opti is weak, but having a vibration like that go through the timing chain to the otpi probably put some undo stress on the Dynaspark/Opti. I am now repairing it , slowly as I really am in no hurry to get back on the road, and am waiting for the parts to arrive, new ED timing chain.
So, in a nutshell, I screwed up.
