Changing plug wires
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Navigator
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Changing plug wires
How in the heck do you change the drivers side plug wires on a 95 vette. I cant even see where they go? I know it is under the Alternator somewhere but how do you get to it???? Need help, the number 5 plug wire is broken
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 7
From: Kanata ON.
I don't know what your 95 looks like but I just finished my 88 with new MSD wires and the only way to do #2 and #4 was by removing the inner wheel well covers. This was not as hard as you may think. 
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 7,301
Likes: 2,223
From: Central Maryland
It is a real PITA to change the driver's side plug wires on an LT1. Plan on spending many hours on the job, and be prepared to be very patient and to cuss a lot.
It can help to do the following:
1. Remove all of the mounting bolts from the suport brackets for the ASR unit. This will allow you to move the ASR around as required to get it out of your way. It isn't necessary to remove it completely from the car.
2. Remove the serpentine belt and the power steering pump bolts. You don't need to disconnect the PS hoses, etc, but you will need to be able to move the pump around 1/2 inch forward to allow you to sneak the wires in/out from behind it.
3. Remove the inner fender panel above the upper control arm. This will allow you to see (somewhat) what you're doing, and will also give you more access for your hands.
4. Get the front end of the car a foot or two in the air. If you have a lift, get it up to chest-high or thereabouts. This will help save your back, as you won't have to bend over so far for such a long time.
5. Remove the wheel.
6. Stock up in advance on Band-aids and beer. You'll be reaching for plenty of both long before you're done with the job.
Proceed with care, and route the wires exactly as they are on the car now, or you'll probably have a wire contact something that'll shorten its life. You may find it helpful to shoot some digital photos for reference. Also draw yourself a diagram showing which wire connects to which tower on the Opti, or have the manual close at hand. If you pay very close attention to how you dress and route the new wires, it should be a long time before you have to do this miserable job again. Keep them away from anything that's sharp, gets hot, or moves. Cut corners on this and you'll be back into it again soon.
Use OEM wires as replacements (or wires of identical diameter), or be prepared to see that the new wires won't fit properly into the looms. Using larger diameter wires also makes the job more difficult, as there's already an inadequate amount of room for the wires to run behind the PS pump.
Use a bit of dielectric grease on the inner surface of each boot at both ends of each wire. Be sure to "burp" the trapped air out of each boot as it's installed, or the trapped air may try to push the wire back off of the Opti tower at some later date. I inserted a virgin spray snout from a can of carb cleaner into each boot (taking care to get it under ONLY the boot, and not under the electrical terminal) prior to pusing the boot onto the Opti tower, and this tiny tube allowed the trapped air to escape as the boot was being installed onto the tower, eliminating the need to burp. If you do this, be careful as you slip the tube back out after the boot's on -- try to pull it in the direction it logically needs to go, rather than pulling back against the boot.
It's a beeyotch of a job, but it can be done with plenty of beer and patience. Allow plenty of time, and be prepared to walk away from the job for a while if it begins to get the best of you.
Good luck.
Be well,
SJW
It can help to do the following:
1. Remove all of the mounting bolts from the suport brackets for the ASR unit. This will allow you to move the ASR around as required to get it out of your way. It isn't necessary to remove it completely from the car.
2. Remove the serpentine belt and the power steering pump bolts. You don't need to disconnect the PS hoses, etc, but you will need to be able to move the pump around 1/2 inch forward to allow you to sneak the wires in/out from behind it.
3. Remove the inner fender panel above the upper control arm. This will allow you to see (somewhat) what you're doing, and will also give you more access for your hands.
4. Get the front end of the car a foot or two in the air. If you have a lift, get it up to chest-high or thereabouts. This will help save your back, as you won't have to bend over so far for such a long time.
5. Remove the wheel.
6. Stock up in advance on Band-aids and beer. You'll be reaching for plenty of both long before you're done with the job.
Proceed with care, and route the wires exactly as they are on the car now, or you'll probably have a wire contact something that'll shorten its life. You may find it helpful to shoot some digital photos for reference. Also draw yourself a diagram showing which wire connects to which tower on the Opti, or have the manual close at hand. If you pay very close attention to how you dress and route the new wires, it should be a long time before you have to do this miserable job again. Keep them away from anything that's sharp, gets hot, or moves. Cut corners on this and you'll be back into it again soon.
Use OEM wires as replacements (or wires of identical diameter), or be prepared to see that the new wires won't fit properly into the looms. Using larger diameter wires also makes the job more difficult, as there's already an inadequate amount of room for the wires to run behind the PS pump.
Use a bit of dielectric grease on the inner surface of each boot at both ends of each wire. Be sure to "burp" the trapped air out of each boot as it's installed, or the trapped air may try to push the wire back off of the Opti tower at some later date. I inserted a virgin spray snout from a can of carb cleaner into each boot (taking care to get it under ONLY the boot, and not under the electrical terminal) prior to pusing the boot onto the Opti tower, and this tiny tube allowed the trapped air to escape as the boot was being installed onto the tower, eliminating the need to burp. If you do this, be careful as you slip the tube back out after the boot's on -- try to pull it in the direction it logically needs to go, rather than pulling back against the boot.
It's a beeyotch of a job, but it can be done with plenty of beer and patience. Allow plenty of time, and be prepared to walk away from the job for a while if it begins to get the best of you.
Good luck.
Be well,
SJW
Last edited by SJW; Jul 13, 2005 at 06:59 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 7
From: Kanata ON.
It seems there is a whole lot more to a 95 LT1 plug wire change, quite a good description on how to do it though. I will attest to having the car at chest height it sure will save your back! Good luck!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 5
From: Howard PA
On the drivers side I just removed the inner fenderwell. Used a really long, or several extensions with a swivel. You can go right through and under everything on the drivers side then. Ten minute job!
The wires are a different story, all I did was loosen the PS bolts about 1/2 inch, prop it out from the bracket a bit. Take the serp belt and tensioner assembly off and you have total access to the wires and opti then.
Here's a link below of how we did it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...61&forum_id=48
The wires are a different story, all I did was loosen the PS bolts about 1/2 inch, prop it out from the bracket a bit. Take the serp belt and tensioner assembly off and you have total access to the wires and opti then.
Here's a link below of how we did it.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...61&forum_id=48
Racer
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
From: Plains Ga.
changing plug wires
Originally Posted by SJW
It is a real PITA to change the driver's side plug wires on an LT1. Plan on spending many hours on the job, and be prepared to be very patient and to cuss a lot.
It can help to do the following:
1. Remove all of the mounting bolts from the suport brackets for the ASR unit. This will allow you to move the ASR around as required to get it out of your way. It isn't necessary to remove it completely from the car.
2. Remove the serpentine belt and the power steering pump bolts. You don't need to disconnect the PS hoses, etc, but you will need to be able to move the pump around 1/2 inch forward to allow you to sneak the wires in/out from behind it.
3. Remove the inner fender panel above the upper control arm. This will allow you to see (somewhat) what you're doing, and will also give you more access for your hands.
4. Get the front end of the car a foot or two in the air. If you have a lift, get it up to chest-high or thereabouts. This will help save your back, as you won't have to bend over so far for such a long time.
5. Remove the wheel.
6. Stock up in advance on Band-aids and beer. You'll be reaching for plenty of both long before you're done with the job.
Proceed with care, and route the wires exactly as they are on the car now, or you'll probably have a wire contact something that'll shorten its life. You may find it helpful to shoot some digital photos for reference. Also draw yourself a diagram showing which wire connects to which tower on the Opti, or have the manual close at hand. If you pay very close attention to how you dress and route the new wires, it should be a long time before you have to do this miserable job again. Keep them away from anything that's sharp, gets hot, or moves. Cut corners on this and you'll be back into it again soon.
Use OEM wires as replacements (or wires of identical diameter), or be prepared to see that the new wires won't fit properly into the looms. Using larger diameter wires also makes the job more difficult, as there's already an inadequate amount of room for the wires to run behind the PS pump.
Use a bit of dielectric grease on the inner surface of each boot at both ends of each wire. Be sure to "burp" the trapped air out of each boot as it's installed, or the trapped air may try to push the wire back off of the Opti tower at some later date. I inserted a virgin spray snout from a can of carb cleaner into each boot (taking care to get it under ONLY the boot, and not under the electrical terminal) prior to pusing the boot onto the Opti tower, and this tiny tube allowed the trapped air to escape as the boot was being installed onto the tower, eliminating the need to burp. If you do this, be careful as you slip the tube back out after the boot's on -- try to pull it in the direction it logically needs to go, rather than pulling back against the boot.
It's a beeyotch of a job, but it can be done with plenty of beer and patience. Allow plenty of time, and be prepared to walk away from the job for a while if it begins to get the best of you.
Good luck.
Be well,
SJW
It can help to do the following:
1. Remove all of the mounting bolts from the suport brackets for the ASR unit. This will allow you to move the ASR around as required to get it out of your way. It isn't necessary to remove it completely from the car.
2. Remove the serpentine belt and the power steering pump bolts. You don't need to disconnect the PS hoses, etc, but you will need to be able to move the pump around 1/2 inch forward to allow you to sneak the wires in/out from behind it.
3. Remove the inner fender panel above the upper control arm. This will allow you to see (somewhat) what you're doing, and will also give you more access for your hands.
4. Get the front end of the car a foot or two in the air. If you have a lift, get it up to chest-high or thereabouts. This will help save your back, as you won't have to bend over so far for such a long time.
5. Remove the wheel.
6. Stock up in advance on Band-aids and beer. You'll be reaching for plenty of both long before you're done with the job.
Proceed with care, and route the wires exactly as they are on the car now, or you'll probably have a wire contact something that'll shorten its life. You may find it helpful to shoot some digital photos for reference. Also draw yourself a diagram showing which wire connects to which tower on the Opti, or have the manual close at hand. If you pay very close attention to how you dress and route the new wires, it should be a long time before you have to do this miserable job again. Keep them away from anything that's sharp, gets hot, or moves. Cut corners on this and you'll be back into it again soon.
Use OEM wires as replacements (or wires of identical diameter), or be prepared to see that the new wires won't fit properly into the looms. Using larger diameter wires also makes the job more difficult, as there's already an inadequate amount of room for the wires to run behind the PS pump.
Use a bit of dielectric grease on the inner surface of each boot at both ends of each wire. Be sure to "burp" the trapped air out of each boot as it's installed, or the trapped air may try to push the wire back off of the Opti tower at some later date. I inserted a virgin spray snout from a can of carb cleaner into each boot (taking care to get it under ONLY the boot, and not under the electrical terminal) prior to pusing the boot onto the Opti tower, and this tiny tube allowed the trapped air to escape as the boot was being installed onto the tower, eliminating the need to burp. If you do this, be careful as you slip the tube back out after the boot's on -- try to pull it in the direction it logically needs to go, rather than pulling back against the boot.
It's a beeyotch of a job, but it can be done with plenty of beer and patience. Allow plenty of time, and be prepared to walk away from the job for a while if it begins to get the best of you.
Good luck.
Be well,
SJW
This should give you a better view of the wires. It's not going to make the job much easier, but you should have a better view. It's still a PITA.
JTHVETTE
