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Well, my analysis on the 32 would be wrong - the Gages Fuse is opening and that cuts power to the solenoid - so whether or not the absence of a code rules out the solenoid is wrong. With no power you may or may not get the 32 but the EGR solenoid and it's associated wiring may not be the problem.
I'd still check the vapor canister. The harness is close to the retainer bolt which has a nice sharp edge to it. The radio, unless spliced into the circuit, shouldn't be a problem, but you'll have to pull it out to check out the circuit. The main harness is above it, and if you want to examine it, best to pull the dash cover.
I had taken out the radio a few months ago to check its wiring and connections...looked fine to me. I'll check the wiring near the vapor canister. Actually, it always gives me a suspicion of something on the far front end, because it only seems to blow when the front right hits a hole. I've checked the headlight, hood lights, and horns previously. I also traced everything back to that harnees behind the battery, a year ago, and all checked good.
Thanks everyone for all the attention.
Well, back to a dead end. Checked the vapor cannister and didn't find any wires broken or close enough to get broken.
Got a little excited through these responses that I might be closer to finding the problem, but now I'm back at frustrating square 1.
Thanks for all your suggestions.
No - other side - black box between the a/c compressor and the intake plenum. Pry off the plastic cover. Solenoids are underneath. Power circuit (from the Gages Fuse) is Pink/Black to each solenoid and that's spliced into the EGR solenoid so you can trace those wires up to the splice and over to that solenoid. If you take the connectors off, make sure you note which color goes where as they will fit on either solenoid. Mix them up and you'll have air flowing to the headers at the wrong time and it won't run very well.