Pulls right when braking.
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Pulls right when braking.
Been having problems with the 87's braking. When you hit the pedal, the car jerks (and I mean JERKS) to the right very badly. To the point that if you are not holding the wheel with two hands, you're in another lane.
This has been going on for a while now, and we've tried new calipers, pads, rotors, and properly bleed the system, all to no avail. We finally gave up and took it to a mechanic.
He told us that although he wasn't sure, he 'thinks' it's the ABS unit failing, and the he can replace it to the tune of like $1700.
Is there a test to see if this unit is bad? Anything else you guys can come up with? Can it be taken apart and cleaned? If this is the problem, where can I find a replacement at a good price? Are there similar units in other vehicles that I can find in a salvage yard?
Thanks for any information.
KZad
This has been going on for a while now, and we've tried new calipers, pads, rotors, and properly bleed the system, all to no avail. We finally gave up and took it to a mechanic.
He told us that although he wasn't sure, he 'thinks' it's the ABS unit failing, and the he can replace it to the tune of like $1700.
Is there a test to see if this unit is bad? Anything else you guys can come up with? Can it be taken apart and cleaned? If this is the problem, where can I find a replacement at a good price? Are there similar units in other vehicles that I can find in a salvage yard?
Thanks for any information.
KZad
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
I don't know of a test for the ABS but you might try Contemporary Corvette (link on my site) for a used unit.
BTW, when you replaced the front calipers did you also replace the caliper brackets?? You might try replacing the front brake hoses too.
BTW, when you replaced the front calipers did you also replace the caliper brackets?? You might try replacing the front brake hoses too.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 6,470
Likes: 2
From: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
St. Jude Donor '10
I had the exact same thing happen on my `76. The problem turned out to be that the brake hoses to the front calipers were collapsing internaly. Its caused by age. I replaced all four hoses ( one for each wheel ), & everything is fine. Another note: Steel braided hoses are rubber internaly, & could look ok, but still be collapsing. Also--- if it pulls to the right, it means that the left wheel brake line is collapsing, & vice versa. 
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by 65Z01
I don't know of a test for the ABS but you might try Contemporary Corvette (link on my site) for a used unit.
BTW, when you replaced the front calipers did you also replace the caliper brackets?? You might try replacing the front brake hoses too.
BTW, when you replaced the front calipers did you also replace the caliper brackets?? You might try replacing the front brake hoses too.
We havn't done much to the rear brakes. Mainly because the driver's side front rotor keeps warping (our guess is from getting hot because it's not releasing totally) and we figured the problem would be near that.
Any more ideas?
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 17,640
Likes: 1
From: Lenoir City TN
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11
Is the rotor warping even after you replaced the caliper? If so sounds like the caliper is binding and not releasing, I had this happen to a new caliper. I would replace the caliper especially if it still under warranty, see if that helps.
Bob
Bob
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 401
Likes: 41
From: Parrish FL
Last time that happened to me I had taken the right side and replaced almost everything. And it didn't help. Seams it was a leaky caliper on the left side. With fluid on the rotor there was no grab at all, so it pulled immediately to the side where everything was normal. Hope you checked both sides.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 920
Likes: 1
From: Shelby Township Michigan
You should be able to completely disconnect the ABS system by unplugging it. If so, you should then make some stops from 30-40mph and see if the pull is the same. If so, the ABS system is ruled out of the equation.
The next step is to make sure that there is no residual brake pressure applied to the caliper when you are not pushing on the brakes. Again, make about 10 30mph stops at normal braking, then release the bleeder screw momentarily. The brake fluid should just dribble out, if it shoots out, then there is some residual pressure.
Good luck,
Dino
The next step is to make sure that there is no residual brake pressure applied to the caliper when you are not pushing on the brakes. Again, make about 10 30mph stops at normal braking, then release the bleeder screw momentarily. The brake fluid should just dribble out, if it shoots out, then there is some residual pressure.
Good luck,
Dino
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,898
Likes: 0
From: Oklahoma City Oklahoma
Originally Posted by KZad
Thanks Dino, that should help a lot.
I was just wondering how exactly do you disconnect the ABS system. Where do I start to look, or can I just pull the fuse?
thanks
KZad
I was just wondering how exactly do you disconnect the ABS system. Where do I start to look, or can I just pull the fuse?
thanks
KZad
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 17,551
Likes: 26
From: El Paso Texas
I know this stuff is elementary, but sometimes we overlook the simple (and cheap) stuff....
OK....when you replaced the rotors, did you clean them with a good degreaser prior to installing? Many rotors are shipped with a thin coating of oil on them to prevent surface rust from forming....and if it's not removed, it will embed itself into the pads and ruin them....and cause pulling.
I would damn sure rule out everything else before shelling over $1700 hard earned bucks.
I know you bled them when you installed the new calipers, but is there any chance one of the lines still has air in it? Remember, air compresses, liquid doesn't. If a line has air, that caliper won't grip correctly. Since your car pulls to the right, start with bleeding the left side again. Are the calipers sliding smoothly? Any possibility a wheel bearing is starting to jettison grease onto the rotor?
Finally, any possibility that this is a tire issue....ie....tread separation?
I'm really leaning against an ABS issue here. I agree with the guys above....disable the system and see if the problem remains.
OK....when you replaced the rotors, did you clean them with a good degreaser prior to installing? Many rotors are shipped with a thin coating of oil on them to prevent surface rust from forming....and if it's not removed, it will embed itself into the pads and ruin them....and cause pulling.
I would damn sure rule out everything else before shelling over $1700 hard earned bucks.
I know you bled them when you installed the new calipers, but is there any chance one of the lines still has air in it? Remember, air compresses, liquid doesn't. If a line has air, that caliper won't grip correctly. Since your car pulls to the right, start with bleeding the left side again. Are the calipers sliding smoothly? Any possibility a wheel bearing is starting to jettison grease onto the rotor?
Finally, any possibility that this is a tire issue....ie....tread separation?
I'm really leaning against an ABS issue here. I agree with the guys above....disable the system and see if the problem remains.
