Car won’t start occasionally….
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 393
Likes: 1
From: tx
Car won’t start occasionally….
I have a 87 L98 with a 4+3 tranny.. The car starts fine however every once in a while, maybe every 30 starts it will not turn over. I will turn the key and nothing will happen. The dash lights come on, the radio plays, the power accessories work, but the starter will not even click.
I pop start the car, and it fires right up. It will then work start fine again for ~30 starts and then out of nowhere it will not engage again.
What could be the cause of this?
HELP ! ….Thanks
I pop start the car, and it fires right up. It will then work start fine again for ~30 starts and then out of nowhere it will not engage again.
What could be the cause of this?
HELP ! ….Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,602
Likes: 48
From: Napa California
My '88 does that occasionaly too. I think that it's the embedded chip in the ignition key going bad. VATS
You can get a new key made. The dealership can read the resistance through the chip and determine which one you need. They can then cut you a new key with the new chip.
I think that when you turn the key and get no start you need to let it sit for at least 4 minutes before trying again. This is the anti theft at work. The more you turn the key without waiting the more time is added before the car will start.
You can get a new key made. The dealership can read the resistance through the chip and determine which one you need. They can then cut you a new key with the new chip.
I think that when you turn the key and get no start you need to let it sit for at least 4 minutes before trying again. This is the anti theft at work. The more you turn the key without waiting the more time is added before the car will start.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 54,124
Likes: 30
From: Cincinnati, Oh USA
It could be VATS. When it won't crank, try your spare ignition key as its pellet contacts are not as worn as your everyday key. Next, jump the clutch safety switch and try a crank. You can jump 12v to the purple wire on the clutch safety switch which will make the starter crank proving the starter is ok. Remove the hush panel above the drivers feet and find the two white wires from behind the steering column and goes to a 2 pin connector. With the key in the ignition, unplug the 2 pin connector and measure the resistance across the wires from the steering column. It should measure the same value as the pellet. If over 13k ohms, you need a new ignition tumbler which has improved contacts that make with the pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS by connecting a fixed resistor the same value as the pellet across the two wires that go into the wiring harness (VATS module). You can use 1/4 or higher watt 5% resistor from Radio Shack.
Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 393
Likes: 1
From: tx
Originally Posted by terrydennis
My '88 does that occasionaly too. I think that it's the embedded chip in the ignition key going bad. VATS
You can get a new key made. The dealership can read the resistance through the chip and determine which one you need. They can then cut you a new key with the new chip.
I think that when you turn the key and get no start you need to let it sit for at least 4 minutes before trying again. This is the anti theft at work. The more you turn the key without waiting the more time is added before the car will start.
You can get a new key made. The dealership can read the resistance through the chip and determine which one you need. They can then cut you a new key with the new chip.
I think that when you turn the key and get no start you need to let it sit for at least 4 minutes before trying again. This is the anti theft at work. The more you turn the key without waiting the more time is added before the car will start.
Originally Posted by jfb
It could be VATS. When it won't crank, try your spare ignition key as its pellet contacts are not as worn as your everyday key. Next, jump the clutch safety switch and try a crank. You can jump 12v to the purple wire on the clutch safety switch which will make the starter crank proving the starter is ok. Remove the hush panel above the drivers feet and find the two white wires from behind the steering column and goes to a 2 pin connector. With the key in the ignition, unplug the 2 pin connector and measure the resistance across the wires from the steering column. It should measure the same value as the pellet. If over 13k ohms, you need a new ignition tumbler which has improved contacts that make with the pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS by connecting a fixed resistor the same value as the pellet across the two wires that go into the wiring harness (VATS module). You can use 1/4 or higher watt 5% resistor from Radio Shack.
Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
Now I wish I had a spare key.
Pro
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 678
Likes: 0
From: Oslo, Norway
Hi.
I have exactly the same symptoms. I have an 85 4+3.I know that I do not have the vats. "Accidnetically" I found out that by retorquing the negative battery bolt it became ok. After this discovery it has happened a number of times , and 100% of the times the release and retorqueing of the neg. batterybot cures the problem for a while. I know that it might be the battery cable, the solenoid the clutch swith and dirty battery connectors. The cae is that the battery poles are extremely clean. I do not move the batterycable when retorquing it. The solenoid seems ok and the battery is new and fully charged. It is frustrating. It seems though that it might be something with the battery connector. It is not only with the present battery this has happened.
What could it be. I cannot find any logical explanation as the batterycable has no corrotion and seems like new.
I would really appreciate some comments or recommendations please.
I have exactly the same symptoms. I have an 85 4+3.I know that I do not have the vats. "Accidnetically" I found out that by retorquing the negative battery bolt it became ok. After this discovery it has happened a number of times , and 100% of the times the release and retorqueing of the neg. batterybot cures the problem for a while. I know that it might be the battery cable, the solenoid the clutch swith and dirty battery connectors. The cae is that the battery poles are extremely clean. I do not move the batterycable when retorquing it. The solenoid seems ok and the battery is new and fully charged. It is frustrating. It seems though that it might be something with the battery connector. It is not only with the present battery this has happened.
What could it be. I cannot find any logical explanation as the batterycable has no corrotion and seems like new.
I would really appreciate some comments or recommendations please.
