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1996, LT4, ZF 6 speed. My goal is replace the rear seal on the tranny. Ok, I managed to wiggle the rear of the driveshaft out after removing the caps on the u-jount with the bearings in them. The Haynes says that the driveshaft is suppose to slide away from the tranny. Mine does not budge. I tried encouraging it with a dead-blow hammer, no luck. I tried prying it off with a wrench, no luck. The tranny is not in gear while I'm working on it. I can still spin the driveshaft, but it will not slide away from the tranny at all. I'm starting to think sawzall.
Any ideas? I think I'm missing something about the removal process.
Thanks.
No ideas on the removal but I did want to suggest
that you indelibly mark the position of yoke and shaft/trunion
prior to disassembly. Not doing so can lead to irritating
drivetrain vibrations later.
Note that there may be OEM 'match' marks present.
However, if your '96 is like the Helms Manual says
my '89 is, then the marks are intentionally positioned
180 apart from each other. I'm sure that is intuitively
correct somewhere in the galaxy.
1996, LT4, ZF 6 speed. My goal is replace the rear seal on the tranny. Ok, I managed to wiggle the rear of the driveshaft out after removing the caps on the u-jount with the bearings in them. The Haynes says that the driveshaft is suppose to slide away from the tranny. Mine does not budge. I tried encouraging it with a dead-blow hammer, no luck. I tried prying it off with a wrench, no luck. The tranny is not in gear while I'm working on it. I can still spin the driveshaft, but it will not slide away from the tranny at all. I'm starting to think sawzall.
Any ideas? I think I'm missing something about the removal process.
Thanks.
The drive shaft will pull out of the tail housing. I used rope around the rear u-joint and PULLED!! HARD!
robert
No ideas on the removal but I did want to suggest
that you indelibly mark the position of yoke and shaft/trunion
prior to disassembly. Not doing so can lead to irritating
drivetrain vibrations later.
Note that there may be OEM 'match' marks present.
However, if your '96 is like the Helms Manual says
my '89 is, then the marks are intentionally positioned
180 apart from each other. I'm sure that is intuitively
correct somewhere in the galaxy.
Thanks for the tip, but I did mark it myself. I did see other markings on there, but thought best to use my own markings.