C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Looking at 383

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Old Jul 30, 2005 | 12:21 AM
  #21  
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this is the 383 short block thats in my GS
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/1580...e-Assembly.htm

Price: $4,485.00

Part # 383LT1FA
Brand: Scoggin Dickey Parts Center
Description
This custom short block engine assembly from SDPC features a race prepped LT1 block with Milodon steel splayed center main caps. It also comes with a Lunati 4340 forged crankshaft, Lunati Pro Mod 5.850 rods, SRP forged flat top pistons, JE file-fit rings, Federal mogul race bearings, and is internally balanced.


Specifications
SDPC Part Number: 383LT1FA
Manufacturer: Scoggin Dickey Parts Center
Compression Ratio : 11.8 to 1
Cylinder Block : LT1 Race Prepped
Crankshaft : Luntai 4340 Forged
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 11:48 AM
  #22  
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Hey thanks for all the comments guys. From what I understand, I should go with all forged parts. This is what I planned to do after looking here in the past. I understand the crank, rods, cam and heads but I'm not sure in the differences between the pistons.

I am not an engine builder and will be having someone do the work for me. Having said this, a seller of the rotating assembly can lead me down the wrong track in terms of realibility and power. I aggree with ski that I would love to copy someone elses combo but many of the 383 combos in signatures don't often show HP numbers.

Ski mentioned a strong bottom end but the power is in the heads. Do you mean the block as well here in the bottom end? My intention was to use the stock block, get a forged 383 rotating assembly, and get the heads (383 ready) from Bob at Precision Porting. Does this sound acceptable. Note that the car will not see a track (there are none here within a gas tank or two). It will be running from a roll or occasional light to light (until my D36 blows up anyway).
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 11:57 AM
  #23  
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Wish list?
4 bolt block w splayed mains
Lunati forged crank
Lunati forged rods, 5.7"
Speedpro forged pistons (10:1 cr)
Custom ground cam
Crower SS roller rockers
Jesel belt drive
Trick Flow cnc or AFR heads

for starters.
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 12:09 PM
  #24  
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your stock block will be fine to use..

get a decent forged assembly.. like and eagle or scat. and youll be fine. then buy a really good set of heads and cam accordingly.
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 01:32 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by mos90
your stock block will be fine to use..

get a decent forged assembly.. like and eagle or scat. and youll be fine. then buy a really good set of heads and cam accordingly.

I agree with Mos, Eagle bottom end, and then a good set of heads and a cam to compliment the two. If you get around 330rwhp-350rwhp that is about perfect for the street. Get any more than that and its a waste - a waste in the sense that you can't use it 99% of the time anyways. I don't think I have been able to go past 40% throttle in 1st gear with my car, and past 60% throttle in 2nd or 3rd on th street since I went to the 406 and 434CI motors. If you do they just blow off the tires...so it would be a waste if I did not go to the strip with the car. Hope that makes sense.

I still advise that you try to match another combo that is close to your goals.
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 05:23 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by ski_dwn_it

On the side of parts, your bottom end of the motor needs to be strong enough for what your trying to do, with some safety factor.

The heads are where the power is truely made.
Yes, it's really that simple. With all the info here and what's available from reputable vendors you can have a bottom end that should live, if spec'ed for your purposes. Put everything you can afford into the heads, proper cam selection for your needs, etc. and with a good tuner to top it off, you should be very happy when it's done. I'm embarking on a new bottom end project. I couldn't afford the lightweight crank but went with a good forged one from Eagle. With the lightweight Eagle H-beams and lightweight SRP pistons they should be able to knock a little weight off of the crank anyway when it's all balanced. SRPs are a fine piston, the JEs are just a little more serious (for the hardcore racer) and priced so, but for most of our purposes, the SRPs are more than adequate.
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Old Aug 2, 2005 | 05:28 PM
  #27  
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Be careful with Scat cranks. They are having a huge batch problem as we speak. Small block chevy 383 and 350 cranks (at least )are affected. 347, 351 and 302 ford cranks are also sharing the problem. The fresh cranks are probably ok. If it is off the shelf, look closely at the thrust flange. It just cost me a motor. Not bashing Scat, decent company. They are just having a few issues.
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 11:44 AM
  #28  
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Hey, that's all good stuff. Glad to head I can use my stock bottom end. I want more than 330-350 though because I would like to have more power when highway speed rolling (ie 70 and hammer it) I don't street race from light to light. It's always the guys that come up on me at highway speeds and want to go.....
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Old Aug 6, 2005 | 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jodyeastman
Hey, that's all good stuff. Glad to head I can use my stock bottom end.
If you are building a 383, the only part of your stock "bottom end" that you can use is the block. The crank, connecting rods, and pistons will have to be replaced.
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