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if its not leaking and just shows symtoms you can try to remove and clean it and reinstall before you replace it I usually do this step first
Alan
"at times", I have a very rough idle and under light throttle (just above idle) the car seems like it's missing and about to die, if I give it a little gas, it smooths right out.
I have replaced everything in the ignition system Plugs, wires, cap rotor, module, coil and it made no improvement.
I then checked fuel pressure which is very good and changed the fuel filter. Nothing has made a differance.
I recall having an issue like this on my old F-body and if my memory serves me it ended up being the EGR valve. I just wish I had remembered this sooner.
If you have a small vacuum pump (Mity-Vac or similar) you can try pulling a vac on the valve to see if it leaks and if the diaphram moves as it should. This will be quite difficult on an L98 w/o removing the upper plenum but I think it is possible. Pulling the valve and cleaning it would be a good first step.
With your 180deg T-stat the coolant should get hot enough (>175deg) for the ECM to call for EGR while cruzin. So it it's not responding or stuck open the ECM should be throwing a code.
That would leave only the possibility of a leaking diaphram which could cause rough idling (I had this problem with the LB9 in my IROC). A manifold vacuum test may show up such a problem.
That is sort of a "left handed question". They are many and varied. It depends on the manner in which the EGR valve is failing. The symptoms for an EGR valve that won't open are different than those from one that won't close.
There are some interesting and confusing suggestions in this thread. The symptoms you eventually described sound like the valve is opening too far, too soon and causing a lean misfire.
Originally Posted by 65Z01
That would leave only the possibility of a leaking diaphram which could cause rough idling
I don't get how a leaking diaphragm can cause a rough idle. A leaking diaphragm will slow down or eliminate the EGR from opening. But then, the EGR isn't supposed to open at idle. It can't be a vacuum leak through the leaky diaphragm, because the ECM doesn't send vacuum to the EGR at idle. ???
I would have the injectors tested. I chased a similar problem for weeks and it turned out I had two injectors going static.
-Dave
Please explain the Term "Static"
I have also suspected the injectors. I pulled the injectors last week and the only thing I found wrong was a missing cap on the end of one injector. I think it fell of in the intake and probobly got sucked on through the system.
I just spent about an hour checking the EGR valve and vac switch and they "appear" to be working properly. The switch is open with the key off and closes when the key is on. I made sure vacuum didn't pass through the switch when it was activated. I then had the car idling and i unplugged the vac switch which opened it and the engine began running horrible which leads me to believe the EGR is opening. The only question I couldn't answer was if it is closing All the way.
The more I mess with it the more frustrated I get. My mileage has dropped from a 22.5 average to 16.8 just in the last two weeks.
I appreciate everyone's replies. Hopefully I'll find it soon.