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Yeah, that would help alot...how much chopping up the interior did you have to do? How hard was the install?
Had to cut 4 holes through the fiberglass to weld the plates to the frame. We used the cutouts to mold new fiberglass covers to bond around the bars. Then if I ever wanted to pull the bar out I had the original pieces to bond back in place.
I had new carpet done at a local upholstery shop so I could keep my original rear carpet unmolested.
Only thing that went wrong was the shock control wires for the rear shocks were touching the frame on 1 side, and the welder melted the insulation. I was lucky that there was enough wire to pull it out and shrink-wrap the wires
Scared me to death to start cutting the floor out...not too bad once you make the decision to do it.
What is happening with your 427 build? I have not seen you post in a while?
"Somewhat" on hold...
Got a guy who REALLY needs my Bowtie block for next season drag racing...we said we'd trade for a Rocket block. He needs the Chevy P/N, I don't give a damn...
Also means we don't need to do a lot of work on the pan rails....
I've got everything but the pan. Still looking at how to fit a dry-sump system to the car. Not a lot of room in there, you know.
Been busier than a one-armed paper-hanger this last year as well. Have not had much time to devote to it either...
Installing a roll bar is a PITA but it sure helps with body stiffness when the job is finished. Just a reminder to disconnect the ECM before you start welding on the Chassis.