So, it's a little late, but here they are (click on images for fullsize)
Here's my Activation button...which was temporary, but feels so comfortable to hit, it's now permanent.


This is the master-arm switch. If this switch isn't on, No power goes to the momentary on the shifter


I know the engine looks like crap..that's the idea


1' section of hose where I tapped into the Fuel Pressure Test Port for a fuel source


Where we put the NOS Fogger Nozzle


What I DIDN'T take a picture of (because I can describe it just as easy) is where we took power from.
We hooked onto that distribution block that's behind the battery, with an inline 30amp fuse, then it goes into that switch in the ashtray -> to the momentary on the shifter -> to the solenoids. The fuse is kept out of the holder, and only put in just before each race.

 

Looks ok for what you've got.

I can see now why. What, no purge, low fuel pressure switch, relay, wot switch, switch control panel ect.? I'm not trying to be an a$$ but since you were laughing, I just had to point out that...it shows.

Dont get me wrong, what you did looks good it just doesn't look like alot of steps were taken to safegaurd the system.These steps take time and planning. I'm just saying that I can see how you did that in an hour and a half, thats all. I hope that electrical tape on your connections doesn't get hot and unravel.

So how'd you do your bottle mount ect..? Do you have a safety pop off valve and a blowdown tube? Or a bottle heater and pressure cutoff switch and relay?
I would like to see how you worked all that out and ran your N20 line and such.That stuff alone all took the better part of a day for me. I always like to see how and what others have done if you have pics.

What you have done looks good. Hope it all works great and stays safe.

Spray on!

 

No need for the purge, low fuel pressure switch, or any relays.
I'd rather fuel get to the motor before nitrous, so it spikes rich instead of spiking lean.
I've tested time and again the fuel pressure, the entire fuel system is in 100% working order.
This is what came in the kit. As for a switch control panel..well..it was trying to be stealth.
BTW: There's no electrical tape holding any connections together. Everything is quick-disconnects.
This kit is just as safe as any other. No need for a WOT switch, because I'd rather have it on a button, that way if I start blowing the tires I can back off the nitrous and still be WOT.
As for the bottle mount, it was just mounted to the cargo area. No blow-down tube, but it did have a burst disc.

 

Really, whats this?


Oh wait, I see now thats just electrical tape wrapped loosely around your "quick-disconnects". My bad.

Most "kits" come with the very minimal and additions are strongly recommended by the makers. I just think you are running some risks not purging and just trusting your fuel delivery system just because you check it often but thats your business.

Again, My intention was not to be an a$$ and insult your install. It was just to point out just how you were able to do it in an hour and a half as compared to mine or others who's are very detailed and safety tailored but took alot longer to install.

 

Yes, as this isn't even really a "kit". These are just parts that my friends had laying around. I will not put a purge kit on, simply because I've heard too many horror stories from people purging and the motor spiking lean at first.

 

Maybe so, I've never heard that one myself. If fuel pressure and delivery is up to par this shouldn't be an issue.

What scares me way more than a brief second of a lean condition is fuel puddling in the intake when the short fuel line delivers fuel instantly while the long N20 line has to rid itself of air. Especially after having the bottle out for refill ect..Then you get improper atomization of gasoline spraying by itself in a liquid state without nitrous into an intake plenum and runners that were never designed for anything but air to flow through in the first place. What is going to happen if a spark occures while a valve is open and raw fuel is puddled in the intake?? That scares me way more than a brief lean condition.

Oh well, to each his own. Have fun with the juice. I love it and am hooked. My 90 is a N20 ***** and I'm her pimp and my bottle filler is her dealer.

 

Houdy *Dave* just me.
I think you have a SHARK nozzle I can't see that well.
The nozzle should be mounted 3 to 6 inches from the throttle body,and turned at a slight upward angle.
Just my 02 worth ,I don't know a lot about that kinda of set up.
Power ON!

 

FYI - if your NOS and fuel lines are equal length from the solenoids to the nozzle, fuel will always get there first, even if you have a purge because nitrous has a much lower oxidation point than fuel, so nitrous doesn't stay a liquid very long, even in cold lines. The purge is more of a "hey I have nitrous" thing more than anything else...

Also - not going to pass for stealth much with that button attached to the shifter or the setup under the hood... telling people that the button is for the seat vibrator probably won't sell

As for your bare minimums, all I can say is beware... even if your fuel system is 100%, a low fuel pressure switch serves more than just ensuring you have good fuel, its also your safety net in case you get excited and hold the button down through the rev limiter, which cuts off fuel, and in turn your nitrous. Without it, after you hit the rev limiter while on nitrous, you'll be asking your friend if he has L98 parts lying around.

Engaging nitrous at part throttle = bad idea because your throttle body isn't wide open, and therefore, will cause more nitrous than fuel to enter the motor. Nitrous is a gas, it will flow right through, but gas will run right into the butterflys and condense. Bottom line, when your running nitrous at part throttle, your likely running lean.

Window switch - prevents detonation at low RPMs. I don't engage my nitrous anywhere under 4k RPM. If I'm launching, I'll usually be at WOT before 4k RPM, but don't want nitrous running until after that because it will detonate and cause damage. Not an issue if your doing this manually, but don't recommend manual for reasons already mentioned, this is for a WOT switch... BTW, these switches are like $10 I think.

I'll come out and say it only because I'd hate to see you blow your motor, but your running a huge risk with your setup. I'm sure your thinking your playing it safe and being careful, but that's what everyone says, but only a few actually are, and those are the ones who usually end up getting the safety stuff to play it safe for them. The rest push the envelope and become interesting head gasket stories, or worse.

Look at it this way, if your going to run NOS, why not spend $100-$200 on the safety stuff and prevent $1000-$2000 in engine repairs?

Just my $.02.

JRM
'91 NX ZR1

 

I agree with everthing you said except some of this. Yes, the fuel and nitrous lines are the same length from the solenoids to the nozzle and even after purging the fuel may get there first. But, the nitrous line coming from the bottle mounted at the rear of car is way longer that the short fuel line coming from inches away from the schrader valve on the fuel rail. Not only is it longer but when you have the bottle out for refills and such that long line gets full of air. The fuel line is never removed so air is never introduced into it.

It doesnt take a rockett scientist or physicist to see that there's like eight or ten feet of air in the line after a bottle change that will spray through the nitrous solenoid for God only knows how long while gasoline is being sprayed alone until the air clears and nitrous gets there.

Like you said quote-"fuel will always get there first, even if you have a purge because nitrous has a much lower oxidation point than fuel".
That tells me there is more need for a purge, not less. At least you'll have the air out of the nitrous line and even up the odds. JMHO.

Oh yeah, the other purposes for a purge besides those mentioned that I have found is to relieve the n20 line of pressure after your done racing and putting the car up to save solenoid seals. Or when your changing bottles so you dont get a face full of juice and freeze your hands.

 

True on the first part, however, purge is really only effective when you purge right before use. If you wait a minute or longer, the nitrous will oxidize in the line. It won't be as adverse as air in the line, but still delays the hit.

As for after your done and you close the bottle, that's true it does save seals.

 

So does the Nitrous go stale in the lines? I either read it in an add or read it here...

 

The freezingof the hands wouldn't be so good, but I'm sure some wouldn't mind breathing in the juice
-Dave
P.S. I do not condone using Nitrous as a halucinogen. I'm JUST KIDDING

 

It may, I'm not sure about that one. I always purge it out after turning the bottle off to save the seals. I'll have to look into this oxidization thing that jaymitchell01 spoke of. I thought oxidization was what occured when metal and H20 moisture mix for too long and rust forms. I've never heard the term used with nitrous and stainless lines. I'm no chemist but would like to learn more on the matter.

I know you're kidding. Without the proper mixture of oxygen that stuff can kill ya.

 

Sorry Don't Like To See Tape, It Turns Me Off...

 

 

Won't the high velocity air exiting the line via the nozzle disperse or atomize the fuel just like N20? I don't see how high velocity N20 will atomize gasoline different that high velocity air?

I see how you could be worried about fuel puddling in the intake if the N20 side of the system wasn't activating, but as long as the bottle is open, and pressurized I think the escaping air will work just fine to vaporize the fuel. I don't see why it has to be nitrous oxide.

Am I wrong?

 

Nitrous doesn't go "stale" in the lines, and oxidizing wasn't really the right word, the word is "oxygenating," it happens when N2O breaks up due to the rise in ambient air temps, or boiling point; N2O (2 parts nitrogen, 1 part oxygen) has a very low boiling point, that's why it comes out so cold, and left in the lines long enough, the N2O will break apart, or "oxygenate." After that happens, the whole purpose of N2O is defeated because you want that reaction to take place after it gets inside the motor. Think of it as chemical or liquid supercharging, it does the exact same thing chemically as turbos or S/Cs do mechanically.

Whatever you do, don't breathe the nitrous, it isn't medical grade. People used to buy nitrous from race shops and get high off of the gas, it was harmless at the time, but since then they've put sulfer in the nitrous to prevent people from getting high off of it. You don't want to inhale sulfur, it will mess you up... don't think it's permanent damage, but I hear it definately isn't worth the high you get.

A good nitrous nozzle and jet can atomize gas all by itself without any nitrous or air, the velocity of air/nitrous in the nitrous line only increases the velocity of the atomized gas because it's under such high pressure (900+ psi).

 

Don't worry about the Nitrous it's only 127 degrees below zero.
Feels like a nice freezer burn when I disconect the bottles, but I am smart I wear leather gloves.
Put your hands on an alcohol dragster blower intake and you will get the idea.

 

Nitrous+ contains a small amount of sulfur dioxide. It won't cause any permanent harm, just a sore throat and or nausea. Just designed to discourage abuse.

 

ACTUALLY, no one asks what that is..and the ones that do, I tell them "It's for the line-lock."

No Rev-Limiter on L98's (Well..at 10k rpm..but yeah)

Right..what I meant by keeping it on the button is better for me, is because then, I won't have to go part throttle EVER, I can let off the nitrous, which will let me get traction and then hit the switch again, staying WOT the entire time.

I totally see where you're coming from...but honestly, the only thing I'm REALLY missing is a Hobbs Switch, which I HAVE, just not yet installed.
But hey, at least I'm not calling it "I got NOS." hahahaha, even though it IS NOS Brand equipment...