C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

U-joints

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Old Sep 2, 2005 | 12:29 PM
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Default U-joints

Sounds like I have replace some u-joints out back.
I'm getting a bit of a clunk from back there, when i put it in drive sometimes, or when it downshifts back into 1st when i'm in D.
Which usually goes first? The driveshaft? Or the half-shafts?
I haven't had a chance to get under there and look yet.
I hope it's the half shafts, cuz they look like they're a bit easier to do.
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Old Sep 2, 2005 | 01:04 PM
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Passenger halfshaft usually goes first, but you should replace all of them if you can.

You need Spicer Cold-Forged joints with no zerk fittings, get them from Tom's Differentials.
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Old Sep 2, 2005 | 01:32 PM
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from the sound of it, they seem bullit-proof!

Last edited by sbzer; Sep 2, 2005 at 01:37 PM.
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Old Sep 2, 2005 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by sbzer
from the sound of it, they seem bullit-proof!
Not really I went through about 3 of them this year. Crush the roller bearings into powder!

cryo treated the last set and they have held up for about 50 runs now. Knock on wood. Going to the trakc I ALWAYS break at tomorrow. So I will be holding my breath.
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Old Sep 3, 2005 | 08:03 AM
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You might try a drain a refil of the rear end. Sometimes new posi additive helps it.
A sure sign of u-joint problem is high speed vibration you can't seem to get rid of.
When you look under it check for any red looking dust around the u-joint caps. That's a sure sign they are shot.
Unless you are really hard on it the driveshaft joints hardly ever wear out since they don't move up and down.
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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ski_dwn_it
Not really I went through about 3 of them this year. Crush the roller bearings into powder!

cryo treated the last set and they have held up for about 50 runs now. Knock on wood. Going to the trakc I ALWAYS break at tomorrow. So I will be holding my breath.
Holy Crap! i just checked your profile and your vette is doing a wheelie! no wonder you're hard on them u-joints! hehehe.
impressive!
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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by jsinga
You might try a drain a refil of the rear end. Sometimes new posi additive helps it.
A sure sign of u-joint problem is high speed vibration you can't seem to get rid of.
When you look under it check for any red looking dust around the u-joint caps. That's a sure sign they are shot.
Unless you are really hard on it the driveshaft joints hardly ever wear out since they don't move up and down.
i was hoping someone would tell me that the driveshaft u-joint rarely wears out.
it does make sense that it shouldn't. i was wondering why a u-joint is even needed there.
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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by sbzer
i was hoping someone would tell me that the driveshaft u-joint rarely wears out.
it does make sense that it shouldn't. i was wondering why a u-joint is even needed there.
......body flex......
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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeC4
......body flex......
yeah, and we all know c4s have enough of that
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Old Sep 4, 2005 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by vader86
Passenger halfshaft usually goes first, but you should replace all of them if you can.

You need Spicer Cold-Forged joints with no zerk fittings, get them from Tom's Differentials.
Good advice.
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