I looked on ebay and found this for the low price of $1539 and $65 to ship. You guys understand a lot more of this technical stuff than I do, is this good?

BRAND NEW ALL FORGED SMALL BLOCK CHEVY ROTATING ASSEMBLY

sbc stroker kit LT1

LT1 LT4 or any internal balance 1 pc rear main

actual displacement 397 ci = lots of booty kickin

64cc head at 0 deck appx 11.4:1

only 1pc rear main only 4.040 bore only flat top avail

a kit built to your needs...

NEW 4340 forged non twist crankshaft from EAGLE with a 3.875 stroke. We have run these cranks past 1200hp without failure , your choice of one piece or two piece rear seal crank, 350 mains
We are the largest eagle dealer on ebay, we are proud to sell these parts with tremendous confidence.

EAGLE 4340 h beam rods 6.00" length,

ARP 7/16" 8740 Capscrew bolts standard ( 190,000psi) unless otherwise noted. Optional ARP 2000 ( 230,000psi) and ARP L-19 ( 265,000psi) bolts for extreme horsepower applications. L-19 bolts are recommended for small block engines exceeding 700 HP and big block engines exceeding 850HP.
Silicon bronze for floating piston pins
Multi-stage heat treated.
Certified 4340 steel, vacuum degassed to remove impurities.
Each forging is X-rayed, sonic tested and magnafluxed to insure quality.
All surfaces are 100% machined.
Shot peened to stress relieve that metal.
Precision alignment sleeves positively located the rod cap, maintaining big end bore size and eliminating cap walk.
Sized and finished in USA

For pistons we are suppling JE Pro Series forged racing pistons,

Part # 181909 1.050 CH Flat TOP

· CNC machined domes with radiused valve reliefs provide optimum flame travel.

Premium 2618 Alloy

· Pin fitting and double spiro locks included.

· 990-2930-150 wall wrist pin ( 150 grams ) included.

· CNC Machined ring grooves accepts 1/16 1/16 3/16 rings ( Rings Sold Seperately )

· Optional tool pins available.

· Oil rail supports included with all pistons designed for use of rail supports

Also a set of the MAHLE file fit racing moly rings,
KING ALECULAR PRO racing rod and main bearings.

This kit will internally balance without any problems THE PRICE IS $100.
We balance these assemblies in house on our hines balancer all the time without ever needing mallory [heavy metal].
Internal balancing is the way to go.
with a 9.00 deck this will be -.010 below deck

Thanks for the help

 

Going with the 396 is a bit more work but the price is good and all of the components are top notch i would just make shure they are not any kind of seconds but other then that that is less then I payed for my Scat 383 rotating assy and eagle is as good and this kit has JE -vs- my SRPs. Laos you wil have to run the CR numbers with the LT1 heads, they are either 54 or 58cc can't remember off the top of my head right now.

 

Looks like a good deal. But with those pistons and stock LT1 heads. You would be running nearly 12.5:1 compression.

 

what kind of extra work is needed over the 383?

 

Who's going to build this engine for you? I think you need them to be comfortable with the parts you are getting. Putting yourself in the middle can be a costly mistake. You become responsible for the parts (quality, fit, balance, delivery etc). You might save a little on the parts intially, but unless you are a savy shopper and know exactly what you are looking for, you could easily get into trouble IMO.

The 396 is a little tighter fit than the 383. So there is more chance for interference with block, bores, cam, etc. With those Eagle rods, you'll surely need a lot of block clearencing and a small base circle cam.

Another thing to watch out for is Eagle sells a lot of seconds. Cranks that have been turned, or older designs and such. And their machining tolerances can be pretty wide. You can get these parts fairly cheap, again, if you know exactly what you are looking for and are willing to take the risk.

good luck

 

Ralph sums it up prety well the biggest thing is block clearancing and you may have to go to a small base circle cam and again i would be darn sure these are not seconds. BTW Flat lander racing has some prety good kits for around the same price.

 

The specs on that kit reads like really good, strong, stuff. Do you have the need or use for parts that strong? Would more conventional, less expensive parts be as, or more, suitable?

RACE ON!!!

 

Only problem Ive heard of with Eagles are the Stock replacement (cheapie SIR?) rods.
Sounds like you have a serious torque monster in the making! What are you doing in the way of cyl. heads/porting?

 

I understand that there would be clearence issues to think about since you're going almost 50 cubes bigger, but what is a small base circle cam? The parts being stron I don't know why you wouldn't get the stronger stuff unless it cost a whole lot more, and who knows maybe a few years down the road it won't be enough.

 

It does cost a whole lot more. Good parts are available for 40-50% less. I only posed the question about overkill. If your planned engine will need it, then great. As for later...by that time, you might prefer to start over. I was just trying to get the synapses arcing.

RACE ON!!!

 

that is a great price for the kit.

im building a 396ci now and i went with eagle forged crank, lunati billet rods and srp custom nos pistons. i over did it a little but i plan on 600hp and a 250 shot, so i really needed it.

a small base circle cam usually will measure .900 and is just smaller in diameter for additional rod clearance. i think a stock cam is 1.050 or 1.030