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No, I turn the key and nothing, it does not crank.
Sounds like RedEasySport is on the right track. Pull the console again and see if you unhooked/jostled anything IE the neutral start and backup lamp switch
Mike
You are not going to believe this, but I walked out to my car and tried to start it and it did. I must have tried 20 times before and nothing, now I am wondering if my park switch is going south or I have a connection problem.
Your problems are in the VATS circuit. When it won't crank: First try your spare ignition key as its pellet is not worn like your everyday key. Next, jump the gear selector switch (try wiggling the gear selector when in crank position, this confirms the gear selector switch problems).
Jump 12v to the purple wire on the gear selector switch (thats the color on an 87), this will force the starter to crank as this wire goes to the starter solenoid on the starter. Remove the hush panel above the drivers feet and locate the 2 wires from the steering column that go to a 2 pin connector. Unplug the connector, insert key into the ignition and measure the resistance across the wires from the column. It should measure the same as the pellet. If over 13k ohms, you need a new ignition tumbler which has a better designed contacts that make with the pellet. You can temporarily bypass VATS by clipping a fixed resistor the same value as the pellet across the two wires that go into the harness (these go to the VATS module). You can use a 1/4 watt or larger 5% resistor from Radio Shack. Don't permanently bypass VATS because 99% of thefts are done by bashing the column and jumping the ignition.
If you still have problems, it is possible that the start enable relay or its contacts are defective, the ignition switch is defective, or the several connectors the start circuit current must go through to get to the starter solenoid.