How long to install new converter??
I would also replace the front and the rear rail shaft seals while you have the tranny out. Other than fluid that is about all you will need.
I defer to TJWONG and anyone else who may have actually
pulled their A4 but thought I'd offer the following tip I recall
reading.
The C4 A4 bellhousing bolts are said to be a PITA to reach
from the area around the converter. However, by using
sufficient numbers of 3/8" extensions to reach forward
from behind the trans, the job can be relatively painless.
Also, my vote is that if you are going to be changing the
fluid, you'll need a pan gasket and you can get a filter
with the gasket for not much money. So change the filter,
too.
Finally, if you are working on the floor. A little planning and
ingenuity can convert an inexpensive floor jack into a trans
jack. The two main tasks are to secure the trans and stabilize
the typically narrow jack - think 'outriggers' and some ideas may
come to mind. Or maybe you can rent the jack or a saddle to
go on an existing jack.
.
Last edited by Slalom4me; Sep 18, 2005 at 02:51 PM.
I would also replace the front and the rear rail shaft seals while you have the tranny out. Other than fluid that is about all you will need.
Sorry guys, yes I will be using a lift at the hobby shop here on base. You say 2.5 hours huh. WOW. I was expecting it to take about 12 hours or so. Where can I get these seals, and how hard are they to install once tranny is out? Anything else I need to know before starting? Thanks guys!
I defer to TJWONG and anyone else who may have actually
pulled their A4 but thought I'd offer the following tip I recall
reading.
The C4 A4 bellhousing bolts are said to be a PITA to reach
from the area around the converter. However, by using
sufficient numbers of 3/8" extensions to reach forward
from behind the trans, the job can be relatively painless.
Also, my vote is that if you are going to be changing the
fluid, you'll need a pan gasket and you can get a filter
with the gasket for not much money. So change the filter,
too.
Finally, if you are working on the floor. A little planning and
ingenuity can convert an inexpensive floor jack into a trans
jack. The two main tasks are to secure the trans and stabilize
the typically narrow jack - think 'outriggers' and some ideas may
come to mind. Or maybe you can rent the jack or a saddle to
go on an existing jack.
.
it is easy to reassemble in the original orientation. This should help
reduce the chances of having new vibrations after you are done.
BTW: My Helms manual for an '89 states that there is a black spot
on the shaft and a yellow spot on the yoke and goes on to say:
"ALIGN THE BLACK PAINT SPOT 180 DEGREES OPPOSITE THE YELLOW
PAINT SPOT (my emphasis) on the pinion yoke. This aligns the light
side of the propeller shaft with the heavy side of the pinion yoke,
minimizing residual unbalance. Prior to removal, be sure to check for
the presence of the paint spots..."
Sigh.. I think I know why the marks are positioned out of phase
but it just makes it tough for someone who sees them and assumes
they are misaligned.
.
to reach forward from behind the trans ...
be your best friend at that stage of the job.
Apply liberally at each joint between the extensions to hold them
together.
Another suggestion is that you become familiar with the correct
process for adjustment of the TV (Throttle Valve) cable. This
link has info. I haven't looked but others here recommend the
steps in the manual. Not getting the TV set correctly can be
detrimental to transmission life.
.
Last edited by Slalom4me; Sep 19, 2005 at 07:57 AM.
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