C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

How long to install new converter??

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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 01:26 PM
  #1  
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Default How long to install new converter??

I just returned home from the middle east, and want to prepare to install my new Vigilante that I bought. How long does it take to install it from start to finish, and what will I need besides the new converter and trans fluid? Thanks!
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by darkman5001
I just returned home from the middle east, and want to prepare to install my new Vigilante that I bought. How long does it take to install it from start to finish, and what will I need besides the new converter and trans fluid? Thanks!
Are you doing it at home on the floor or do you have access to a lift? At home on the floor I would think about 4 to 5 hours or so. On a lift with a tranny jack about 2.5 hours.

I would also replace the front and the rear rail shaft seals while you have the tranny out. Other than fluid that is about all you will need.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 02:49 PM
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Welcome back

I defer to TJWONG and anyone else who may have actually
pulled their A4 but thought I'd offer the following tip I recall
reading.

The C4 A4 bellhousing bolts are said to be a PITA to reach
from the area around the converter. However, by using
sufficient numbers of 3/8" extensions to reach forward
from behind the trans, the job can be relatively painless.

Also, my vote is that if you are going to be changing the
fluid, you'll need a pan gasket and you can get a filter
with the gasket for not much money. So change the filter,
too.

Finally, if you are working on the floor. A little planning and
ingenuity can convert an inexpensive floor jack into a trans
jack. The two main tasks are to secure the trans and stabilize
the typically narrow jack - think 'outriggers' and some ideas may
come to mind. Or maybe you can rent the jack or a saddle to
go on an existing jack.

.

Last edited by Slalom4me; Sep 18, 2005 at 02:51 PM.
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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 09:33 PM
  #4  
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From: Beverly, NJ
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Originally Posted by tjwong
Are you doing it at home on the floor or do you have access to a lift? At home on the floor I would think about 4 to 5 hours or so. On a lift with a tranny jack about 2.5 hours.

I would also replace the front and the rear rail shaft seals while you have the tranny out. Other than fluid that is about all you will need.

Sorry guys, yes I will be using a lift at the hobby shop here on base. You say 2.5 hours huh. WOW. I was expecting it to take about 12 hours or so. Where can I get these seals, and how hard are they to install once tranny is out? Anything else I need to know before starting? Thanks guys!

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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 09:35 PM
  #5  
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From: Beverly, NJ
Default

Originally Posted by Slalom4me
Welcome back

I defer to TJWONG and anyone else who may have actually
pulled their A4 but thought I'd offer the following tip I recall
reading.

The C4 A4 bellhousing bolts are said to be a PITA to reach
from the area around the converter. However, by using
sufficient numbers of 3/8" extensions to reach forward
from behind the trans, the job can be relatively painless.

Also, my vote is that if you are going to be changing the
fluid, you'll need a pan gasket and you can get a filter
with the gasket for not much money. So change the filter,
too.

Finally, if you are working on the floor. A little planning and
ingenuity can convert an inexpensive floor jack into a trans
jack. The two main tasks are to secure the trans and stabilize
the typically narrow jack - think 'outriggers' and some ideas may
come to mind. Or maybe you can rent the jack or a saddle to
go on an existing jack.

.
Thanks! I will be using a lift, and I also have access to a trans jack as well. I have an extra pan gasket and filter, so that will deffinitly be done as well. Thanks for the tips. Keep them coming please.

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Old Sep 18, 2005 | 09:52 PM
  #6  
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From: The Pines South Jersey
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seals can be found at NAPA or just about any of the other stores near you. If all else falls go to a tranny shop or the dealer.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 06:49 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by darkman5001
Thanks for the tips. Keep them coming please.
Mark the fr/rr yokes and universal pairs BEFORE disassembly so that
it is easy to reassemble in the original orientation. This should help
reduce the chances of having new vibrations after you are done.

BTW: My Helms manual for an '89 states that there is a black spot
on the shaft and a yellow spot on the yoke and goes on to say:

"ALIGN THE BLACK PAINT SPOT 180 DEGREES OPPOSITE THE YELLOW
PAINT SPOT (my emphasis) on the pinion yoke. This aligns the light
side of the propeller shaft with the heavy side of the pinion yoke,
minimizing residual unbalance. Prior to removal, be sure to check for
the presence of the paint spots..."

Sigh.. I think I know why the marks are positioned out of phase
but it just makes it tough for someone who sees them and assumes
they are misaligned.

.
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Old Sep 19, 2005 | 07:02 AM
  #8  
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From: Edmonton AB
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Originally Posted by Slalom4me
... by using sufficient numbers of 3/8" extensions
to reach forward from behind the trans ...
If this tip proves to be accurate, I would add that duct tape will
be your best friend at that stage of the job.

Apply liberally at each joint between the extensions to hold them
together.

Another suggestion is that you become familiar with the correct
process for adjustment of the TV (Throttle Valve) cable. This
link has info.
I haven't looked but others here recommend the
steps in the manual. Not getting the TV set correctly can be
detrimental to transmission life.

.

Last edited by Slalom4me; Sep 19, 2005 at 07:57 AM.
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 02:18 PM
  #9  
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From: Beverly, NJ
Default Vigilante Installed... :)

Well, I just got the 2800 stall 9.5 Vigilante converter installed today. The support brace from the tail shaft to the tranny was a real pita. The who job took me from 9am until 8am. Some time in there was to eat and take a couple of short breaks. I removed the tranny completely from the vette, cleaned it up a bit, installed new seal between pump and new torque converter, added all new Mobil 1 Synthetic Trans Fluid, and thats about it. I drove it around for about 30 miles or so to break it in. All I can say is WOW. It is a totally different car. It is VERY streetable, and makes awsome power. I am VERY happy with it. Those converters should come STOCK on a vette. It is gotta be one the best upgrades I have done. I saw more power from it then any other upgrade I am done on it so far. I have pics of the install, but I don't have a way to upload them. Thanks for all the help and guidence to all that helped me.

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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 03:50 PM
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Remove the distributor cap also because the engine may rock back some and crack it.
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Old Oct 1, 2005 | 11:52 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by shotchkiss
Remove the distributor cap also because the engine may rock back some and crack it.

Already installed. No problems with cap. Thanks!

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