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Let's focus on the "glue" for a second. I have not had a chance to get under the car since my first post (track day at Putnam Park on my bike and TONS of rain) but I am will to bet the guy that put my clutch in DID NOT reglue this joint and I am getting the dance as a result. The next thing I will check is the inner tie rod ends. I can get in the pit at one of my shops and shake the car left & right and up & down and be able to see the suspension with all the weight on it.
Mackeyred96: I did not raise it back up and probably won't if I can avoid it. Check out my other posts about this thing being lowered.
Please post the answer to this, I'm very curious what the outcome is.
Just using logic my guesses are:
1) Rear tie-rod.
2) two aluminum control arms or rubber bushings from the bearing housing forward to the frame.
3) C-clip broken off in rear end that holds side yokes from coming out.
4) Rubber bushings that hold batwing in place.
Let's focus on the "glue" for a second. I have not had a chance to get under the car since my first post (track day at Putnam Park on my bike and TONS of rain) but I am will to bet the guy that put my clutch in DID NOT reglue this joint and I am getting the dance as a result. The next thing I will check is the inner tie rod ends. I can get in the pit at one of my shops and shake the car left & right and up & down and be able to see the suspension with all the weight on it.
Mackeyred96: I did not raise it back up and probably won't if I can avoid it. Check out my other posts about this thing being lowered.
Thanks for the help guys.
I do not believe it's really a "glue" in the structural sense. It's a sealer to keep out moisture & dirt.
Check also the big 36 mm nut at the center of the wheel. If it is not torqued (to hold the splindle) the car act as you described.
I had the same problem and I found that this 36 mm was not torqued down enought. (I was able to loosen it by hands ).
-Beppe-
when you lift your foot off the thottle, their is massive weight transfer to the front, the rear becomes light, and will come around (if your in a turn). sounds normal.
when you lift your foot off the thottle, their is massive weight transfer to the front, the rear becomes light, and will come around (if your in a turn). sounds normal.
The dancing occurs EVERY time I let off/push down, especially when shifting gears. Off/on/off in right handers are better than left - meaning I feel it more in lefts. Makes high speed lift-throttle induced oversteer REAL fun! Recently I have noticed more of a "pop" when backing up and then going forward. I think this earlier popping has grown into the dance I feel. Today I got the car out, took it to one of my stores, got in the pit, and watched all the suspension as my guys shook the hell out of the car - side to side & bounced it -and found nothing. Then I had one of them kinda "pop" the clutch. FINALLY, a little success. Although I could not see exactly what is going on, I could hear it. I do think it is in the C-beam because I see some clean contact area where it looks like things have been moving around. Next step is to try to tighten it up then try beam clamps. Wish me luck and thanks again.
From: [Quote=WOEII] Is dried brown doodie powders man! [/Quote]
Originally Posted by dchildress
Next step is to try to tighten it up then try beam clamps. Wish me luck and thanks again.
If you have a few days to fix it, order those clamps. To be honest, I don't know if they helped or not because I had to replace the trans soon after I got the car and they've been on ever since.
My sole reason to get them is because I have realitively large hands and it was a major pain to get the bolts out. There isn't much room up there and it makes removal and installation of the C-beam an easier process when the time comes.
It doesn't take much to cause the effect you are seeing. My car use to do something similar (on and off the gas), turned out to be a loose wheel bearing on the RR wheel. If it's not your wheel bearing my bet would be the tie-rod as well.
C-beam was tight. Jacked the car up again. I shook the wheels by hand...not much play. Stuck a 2x4 in the spokes of the A-molds for leverage and the left one moved about 1/2" up and down. I am willing to bet that is the problem. I will let you guys know.
A while ago somebody posted a thread about $55 rear wheel bearing hubs. Anybody remember this?
Well, the new bearings are in (all 4) and the dance is over. I found a BAD u-joint while I was in there. I just had those replaced last year. I still have some play in the bearing but nothing like I had. But now my check ASR/ABS lights are on. I checked connections. Any more clues?
Well, the new bearings are in (all 4) and the dance is over. I found a BAD u-joint while I was in there. I just had those replaced last year. I still have some play in the bearing but nothing like I had. But now my check ASR/ABS lights are on. I checked connections. Any more clues?
Can you get the trouble-code from the ABS/ASR computer?
Most likely a ABS wheel sensor on the rear wheels.
Are they plugged in correctly?
No broken wiring harness to the sensors?
They seem to be plugged in fine and wires look good. I pulled the ABS Hydraulics fuse as the ABS pump would start running as soon I got rolling. I am going to have somebody read the codes for the ABS/ASR computer next week when I get back.
Jacked the car up again. I shook the wheels by
hand...not much play. Stuck a 2x4 in the spokes of
the A-molds for leverage and the left one moved
about 1/2" up and down.
Sorry to be a little late to the party but wanted to say
I'm glad to hear you identified the problem.
I'm puzzled why it took the leverage of a 2x4 and
the earlier attempts by hand didn't reveal the bad
bearing. IIRC, you are a big guy and probably
weren't being dainty in the initial attempts.
Now that you've had it apart, any observations or
suggestions for others to consider while they are
trouble-shooting?
Sorry to be a little late to the party but wanted to say
I'm glad to hear you identified the problem.
I'm puzzled why it took the leverage of a 2x4 and
the earlier attempts by hand didn't reveal the bad
bearing. IIRC, you are a big guy and probably
weren't being dainty in the initial attempts.
Now that you've had it apart, any observations or
suggestions for others to consider while they are
trouble-shooting?
.
I found a bad ujoint-the reason for the popping and unbalanced wheel feel. The spindle was very rusted even though I had greased it when the ujoints were replaced last year. Have a 36mm socket and new cotter pin for the spindle nut. I have a Corsa exhaust - taking the mufflers off gave me a little room to move around. Make sure you use a GOOD quality T55 (not a T50) Torx socket to get the old bolts out. An air wrench made it easier on my carpal tunnel going in and out. Of course, now is a good time to check everything else. Having the pits and a tire rotation lift at my shop made it much easier than crawling around on the ground. Having my crew help me was nice too.
I shook the wheel a bunch of times and found the bearing to be loose, but not enough to make me worry. Then when I stuck the 2x4 in there, I had tons more leverage and saw how bad it really was. The car only squatted under accel or decel pressure, that puts more pressure on it than just pushing the car up and down and side to side.
I was wondering whose wheel bearings/hubs you used when you replaced all 4 and what you had to pay for them. I ended up paying almost $400.00 for a new RR.