Overkill on the build up
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 875
Likes: 0
From: Louisville KY
Overkill on the build up
Well, i have decided not to go blown right now.... I can always do that later. But for now this is the 383 setup I'm lookin at.... and yes I wanted overkill and the absolute lightest rotating mass I could get that would hold 750hp F/I later 
. Here is what I've got:
World Motown Lite aluminum block (9.025" deck bored to 4.030")
Eagle Forged 4340 Pendulum cut crank (3.75" stroke)
Eagle Titanium 6" Rods
SRP Forged -16cc dished pistons
Dart Pro 1 200cc/64cc chambered heads (2.05"/1.625" valves)
Hydro roller cam 222*/230* @ .05" 112*LSA (.509" and .528" lift)
Crane gold 1.6 roller rockers
CRS Electric water pump
Jesel "dry" Belt Drive timing set
Full length Hooker 1 7/8' headers
March pulley system (no A/c)
*putting the 600cfm carb on it until i figure out what i'm going to blow it or not
C/R will be around 9.5-9.8
and yes, I know that I could run a hotter cam... curious about the numbers with this one though
Such a shame that I won't be able to put everything together until early march when i get back from the desert
Let me know what you think guys/gals. Thanks!
Scott
. Here is what I've got:World Motown Lite aluminum block (9.025" deck bored to 4.030")
Eagle Forged 4340 Pendulum cut crank (3.75" stroke)
Eagle Titanium 6" Rods
SRP Forged -16cc dished pistons
Dart Pro 1 200cc/64cc chambered heads (2.05"/1.625" valves)
Hydro roller cam 222*/230* @ .05" 112*LSA (.509" and .528" lift)
Crane gold 1.6 roller rockers
CRS Electric water pump
Jesel "dry" Belt Drive timing set
Full length Hooker 1 7/8' headers
March pulley system (no A/c)
*putting the 600cfm carb on it until i figure out what i'm going to blow it or not
C/R will be around 9.5-9.8
and yes, I know that I could run a hotter cam... curious about the numbers with this one though
Such a shame that I won't be able to put everything together until early march when i get back from the desert
Let me know what you think guys/gals. Thanks!Scott
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 2
From: Albuquerque NM
The Ti rods are definitely the lightest, but I found that longevity tests is really based of off numbers...I think you'd be the first one to pay 2600 bucks for rods
The Al you choose doesn't make sense. You'll loose 2-3% in total wirght but will loose a lot more hp holding potential/logevity. If you are talking 750 HP in a little 383, that's put you at 2 hp per ci. At this ratio parts work much harder, hotter, and fail more often,
Ig you are going to shell out 6000 grand for a block and rods, you're better off 1) increaseing displacemtn, 2) getting an sb2.2 or 18 deg heads, 3) look at the thermodynamics of what you are trying to do (AKA where's all that heat going to go?)
The Al you choose doesn't make sense. You'll loose 2-3% in total wirght but will loose a lot more hp holding potential/logevity. If you are talking 750 HP in a little 383, that's put you at 2 hp per ci. At this ratio parts work much harder, hotter, and fail more often,
Ig you are going to shell out 6000 grand for a block and rods, you're better off 1) increaseing displacemtn, 2) getting an sb2.2 or 18 deg heads, 3) look at the thermodynamics of what you are trying to do (AKA where's all that heat going to go?)
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 105
Likes: 0
From: Macon GA
Oooooh, titanium rods.... 
Very expensive
Sweet looking buildup. Hope to see some numbers once you get back from your stay overseas.
BTW, you're just a few miles down the road from me. I live on exit 155 and just got a new Vette on the 15th. I know nothing about engine building, but if you need a helping hand when you get back feel free to contact me.
Take care,
Justin
Very expensiveSweet looking buildup. Hope to see some numbers once you get back from your stay overseas.
BTW, you're just a few miles down the road from me. I live on exit 155 and just got a new Vette on the 15th. I know nothing about engine building, but if you need a helping hand when you get back feel free to contact me.
Take care,
Justin
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 5,146
Likes: 3
From: The Motor City
Originally Posted by ZD1
The Ti rods are definitely the lightest, but I found that longevity tests is really based of off numbers...I think you'd be the first one to pay 2600 bucks for rods
The Al you choose doesn't make sense. You'll loose 2-3% in total wirght but will loose a lot more hp holding potential/logevity. If you are talking 750 HP in a little 383, that's put you at 2 hp per ci. At this ratio parts work much harder, hotter, and fail more often,
Ig you are going to shell out 6000 grand for a block and rods, you're better off 1) increaseing displacemtn, 2) getting an sb2.2 or 18 deg heads, 3) look at the thermodynamics of what you are trying to do (AKA where's all that heat going to go?)
The Al you choose doesn't make sense. You'll loose 2-3% in total wirght but will loose a lot more hp holding potential/logevity. If you are talking 750 HP in a little 383, that's put you at 2 hp per ci. At this ratio parts work much harder, hotter, and fail more often,
Ig you are going to shell out 6000 grand for a block and rods, you're better off 1) increaseing displacemtn, 2) getting an sb2.2 or 18 deg heads, 3) look at the thermodynamics of what you are trying to do (AKA where's all that heat going to go?)
Last edited by mseven; Sep 24, 2005 at 08:26 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,193
Likes: 1
From: Cincinnati Oh
and those are awefully big headers for a 383ci motor... 1 3/4 would be the max I would think necessary especially since it WONT be F/I just yet.
But I agree with others - Ti rods seem a little over the top for the rest of the components you're choosing. Might as well get an aluminum big-bore smallblock in the 400+ cubes range and outfit it with forged everything (picking the lightest peices you can) and then have a solid base to F/I at a later time. Great power, light weight, and far more bang for the buck in a streatable, long-lasting combo.
Solid roller with beehive springs, light-weight valves and that's about as good as it will get - IMHO.
But I agree with others - Ti rods seem a little over the top for the rest of the components you're choosing. Might as well get an aluminum big-bore smallblock in the 400+ cubes range and outfit it with forged everything (picking the lightest peices you can) and then have a solid base to F/I at a later time. Great power, light weight, and far more bang for the buck in a streatable, long-lasting combo.
Solid roller with beehive springs, light-weight valves and that's about as good as it will get - IMHO.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 875
Likes: 0
From: Louisville KY
Great advice guys! The Ti rods and the block are out the window (going with an iron block and forged rods) and looks like the $5300 is back in my wallet... I did find the rods for less than $2k though 
. As far as larger cubes go, I wanted something that I can use as a daily driver and thought 400+ci didn't have a good of manners if it can happen i may do that. The hydro roller cam was too keep it "streetable" as well... i don't want to be making valve train adjustments that often.
So it looks like an Iron block all forged 383 then. With EFI on the setup what kind of numbers and I going to see with this setup?
. As far as larger cubes go, I wanted something that I can use as a daily driver and thought 400+ci didn't have a good of manners if it can happen i may do that. The hydro roller cam was too keep it "streetable" as well... i don't want to be making valve train adjustments that often. So it looks like an Iron block all forged 383 then. With EFI on the setup what kind of numbers and I going to see with this setup?
