What code for loose fuel cap?
Is it coincidence or is there really something in the EGR circuit going haywire?
Don't know anything about a code that would set because of a faulty cap; perhaps our more enlightened members will chime in!
There is no code related to a bad gas cap. That's why they are tested.
Excellent read that will settle all of the dispute => http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/020116.htm
Perhaps you had another problem, maybe with the fuel evaporation canister on your Vette, or another problem. From experience, I was with a friend who bought an '86, that among a lot of things (what do you expect for $3400) was missing a gas cap and drove home (about 25 miles with just a rag stuffed in the filler neck). Also, I drove to my house (about a mile) with no gas cap at all (after my locking one broke) without a single code on an LT1.I would investage what AGENT 86 posted, and get your hands on a set of shop manuals for your car, they are essential if you own a Vette. My LT1 did the same thing, code 34 I believe on an LT1 (I'm trying to remember from 2 years ago) It would go on for about 30 seconds (during warmup driving) and shut off. Ended up being a small leak on the hose between the EGR and the intake. 5 minutes and a little wrenching and no more code; it had nothing to do with my gas cap.
Take Care!
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts





Perhaps you had another problem, maybe with the fuel evaporation canister on your Vette, or another problem.Now that the cap is tightened until it clicks, I dont have the EGR popup.
My buddy has a '99 Z28, I called him and met him at his car. Took the cap off, and started it. About 30 seconds passed and I hear a, "What did you do to my car?" Bingo! Check Engine Soon light...While the car is still running I put the cap back on loosely, and let it idle for about 5 minutes. The SES light is still on, so we turn off the car, I tighten the cap, wait 10 seconds, start it and no more light.
He said his younger brother has a '88 Iroc with the 350. We give me a call, he is at work but says he has time to spare. Long story short, he takes off his cap, starts it, no lights for a 3 minutes of idling, I hear him revving it pretty hard, moves the car (sloshing the gas) and still no light.
Point of all this? My previous point, OBDI systems do not check for fuel tank vacuum leaks, hence no "gas cap code." Take a look at the Service Manual pages AGENT 86 posted, do you see a "Make sure your gas cap is on tight" anywhere on that diagram? Of course not.
The reason you get a code 32 is because of the reasons listed in the manual:
The EGR switch was closed at start-up
The EGR switch was open when coolant temperatures greater than 176 degrees
The EGR switch was open when duty command by the ECM was greater than 48%
The EGR switch was open when the TPS was less than WOT but not at idle
All these conditions above are met for 4 minutes
No codes 21, 22, 33, 34
If you get a code 32 and turn off the car to tighten your gas cap, the EGR system has a chance to reset itself: The EGR solenoid has a chance to de-energize and energize, The EGR valve is close during cranking from negative back pressure on the valve, and thus has a chance to reopen during possitive intake/crankcase pressure (your PCV system) and finally, the EGR system has a chance to reset and due to the ECM's new input from coolant temperature sensors, MAP, and a whole bunch o' stuff.
I had the same problem, code 32, but for an LT1. It wasn't my gas cap, it was a mechanical problem that was a vacuum check in the diagram provided by the manual.





It happened on nearly every highway trip before, and now it does not.
I already know what the manual says thank you. I've read the entire thing before.
Last edited by vader86; Oct 3, 2005 at 03:10 PM.
http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/020116.htm
It explains the difference between the OBDI and OBDII systems relating to EGR and emission systems. FEDERAL STANDARDS implemented tighter laws on emissions, including regulations about vapor emissions. Our cars use timing and air/fuel ratios to just fudge the fuel emission inconsistencies hoping to provide a more acceptable emission output. The link explains everything.
The reason you had an SES light with a EGR code was due to an EGR system problem...this does not include the gas tank filler cap, period. Do a simple experiment, start the car, make sure it is at operating temperature and unscrew the cap. Check for a light whenever. It won't be there, I promise. I used to fill up my Vette, with the engine running (I know, a
but that was when my starter was flaky and I didn't want to be left stranded 50 miles from home) The car will be fine with no codes. Whatever problem you had on the highway, I could take a guess and tell you that it was ambient related; meaning that it had something to do with outside temperature or speed or something else that was causing the EGR system to malfunction. Like I stated before, it happened to me. But the only think common to everything was that it was a cold morning (40's) and I got on the highway right away without my coolant reaching more than 100 degrees. Back when I tried to fix the problem on the fly, I waited and let the car idle for 5-10 minutes and it never happened.I even checked the shop manual for my sister's 1997 Explorer...and what do you know? Her '97 Explorer uses an OBDII system and look at this under "OBDII Reference Code List:"
P0455- “Evaporative Emission Control Gross Leak”
Right next to it, what are causes?
A loose or improperly affixed gas cap
A non-conforming gas cap (i.e. not factory/original brand)
Other leak or damaged piece in EVAP system
I didn't mean for this to be a personal attack. I never said anything about what YOU did to YOUR gas cap. I was stating for the purpose of information to others, OBDI systems are NOT effected by loose gas caps. I am just stating what I tested, knew, and found out from website and now two mechanics. Cars before OBDII DO NOT have sensors or EVAP systems effected by loose gas caps.





First of all, READ what I'm saying. I'm not arguing with you, I don't see how it happened, but it did and now it doesnt. I never changed the solenoid/switch or anything else.
I know the shop manual better than about 99% of the people here, so dont sit there and insult my intelligence by telling me I cant fking read.
Of course, we also know that GMs Engineers never ever ever make a mistake and that the Helm is the book that sits beside the Bible in Heaven.
I can go out and field test it on I-10 again tonight and report back to you if you like.
Last edited by vader86; Oct 3, 2005 at 07:48 PM.
My reason: There are no sensors, solenoids, wires, probes, vacuum monitoring lines present in the fuel tank to report any code, including a code 32, since it is an OBDI system and not an OBDII system.
My suggestion: Look for leaks, vacuum or line leaks, or electrical inconsistencies in the EGR system. I did, and found the source of my problem. It might just be a flaky valve. It doesn't have to work all the time, every second, and when it fails, it doesn't have to fail forever. They are susceptible to carbon build up and heat fatigue. Shutting the car off (which de-energizes and energizes the system) might be enough to reset it to proper operation.
OBDII Vehicle Identification:
http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/do-i-ha...ii-vehicle.php
OBDII Background and System Description:
http://www.obdii.com/background.html
OBDI & OBDII Differences and Characteristics: (VERY COMPREHENSIVE)
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h46.pdf
OBDII EVAP System:
http://www.motorage.com/motorage/dat...06/article.pdf
This last link is the key. The reason why OBDII cars have the potential to throw a SES light for a loose gas cap is due to the EVAP (Evaporative Control Monitor) System. OBDI cars do not have an EVAP system, nor anything relating to it. In conclusion, I stated, there are no sensors, solenoids, or anything else that would permit a "loose gas cap" code. PERIOD.
O'Shark, I take it that when this happened (I read your post, but it's a little unclear) that when you finally got the cap down, your Vette was off? Did you shut it off, retightened the cap and, started the car? If that's the case, I would suggest what I stated a few posts before, that you "reset" the EGR system as it is always resets when you start the car. They are such things as intermittent problems. Everyone has experienced them. I would call this a coincidence. Like I suggested wait until your car is at operating temperature and then unscrew the cap and let the car idle; there will be no SES light.
My question: Wouldn't you think, of all the possibilities of unscrewing and screwing down your gas cap, you might have not screwed it down all the way before? Ever seen a 1996 and newer gas cap. The 1994,1995, and 1996 gas caps are threaded and "click" caps rather than screw down all the way. This helps prevent cross threading or side threading (which would cause a leak) since the caps don't click if they aren't seated correctly. 1996 and newer vehicles (with OBDII systems requiring OBDII compliant caps [they sell them specifically advertised as such]) first push in through a groove guide in the filler neck, and then click to lock position.
And just because I have to:
You: "I've read the entire thing before."
Me: "Obviously, you haven't."
I never refered to anything about your reading ability. I just said you didn't read the manual if you believe an OBDI system uses gas tank vacuum checks which includes the gas cap as an integral part of the system. I could NOW state the obvious, but I won't....
I never said anything of the sort at all. You don't need to preach to me about the fallibility of GM engineers (cough, Opti-Spark location)
I am just telling you, for the 3rd (at least) time, that OBDI computers do not monitor gas tank vacuum pressure, effected by loose caps.
By all means field test it, I know people like RWDsmoke has tested it with results in my favor. I have talked to 2 C4 owners and 2 C5 owners who all performed by experiment with results all in my favor. I expect your result to follow suit...
I'm in attempt to provide accurate information and correct other's to the best of my knowledge. Members do it to me, and I am grateful; as to not pass on false knowledge to other members. You stated that, you offered input on your experience. Simply, your experience, as far as you detailed, has been with your car only. I have tested my "answer" with over 15 cars now; all follow my stand. I am just suggesting: check to see if your results match anyone else's before you speak the definitive. No hostility, just a suggestion.
Last edited by CorvetteKid1983; Oct 4, 2005 at 01:23 AM.
It appears to have cured itself for the time being.














