D-44 or straight axle..long post,
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,629
Likes: 8
From: Drag racing junkie Va.
Thanks for the kind words Jesse, the 9" was a great peace of mind thing. After breaking 5 D-44s I followed wheelsup lead and built a 'never think about it again' rear . Everything is overly strong 35 spline axles, steel spool, big disc's, chromemoly 4-link, etc. My 4-link bars are 18 & 20" long which required moving the panel behind the seats forward to accommodate forward 4-link frame mounts. Wheelsup & others have used shorter bars with success, so as long as you get the IC where your car likes it is all that really matters.
Have fun,
Dave
Former Vendor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,204
Likes: 6
From: St Marys PA
Originally Posted by Hole-Shot
Come on Jesse, pull the pin and do it.
Have a bake sale to raise the $$
Have a bake sale to raise the $$
Sure wish I lived closer to Dave and Wheels-up. Dave wanna give me your car for the winter months to mock mine up against it...I promise it will be kept in a heated garage - up off the floor on a lift.
If I had that I would probably do it in a heartbeat. My fear is cutting up the car and spring rolling around and not having it done or worse, not having it working.
Dave did you look at any of those subframes you can buy like this?
This is what I am looking at maybe doing if I get one....They are VERY reasonably priced and have just about everything you need. I called yesterday and I can get one for around 1500 dollars.
Your thoughts?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 2,629
Likes: 8
From: Drag racing junkie Va.
The first thing I would check is the distance from the axle centerline to the front of that frame section. Then compare it to your car, make sure your nose doesn't wind up in the steering wheel spokes 
! Next time you see my car get in & see how you fit.
Later,
Dave
! Next time you see my car get in & see how you fit.Later,
Dave
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 1,952
Likes: 2
From: Little Rock Arkansas
Well, ya'll KNOW where I stand... But then again I also have no illusions that when (if?) I ever get my SB2/N2O beast on the track again with the D44 it will be living on seriously borrowed time. Not to mention that in order for me to stay legal I will have to do the swap as well. I've already got everything to do it and my chassis builder is standing by at the ready; it will be a ladder bar setup and use one of Mark Williams' killer modular 12 bolts. But...Not yet... Doesn't anyone really wanna see how deep you can go with a seriously worked D44? If so send funds earmarked: "Jeb needs to get off his azz and get his car on the track" to me! 
-Jeb
-Jeb
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,799
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
Originally Posted by ski_dwn_it
Man I should.....
Sure wish I lived closer to Dave and Wheels-up. Dave wanna give me your car for the winter months to mock mine up against it...I promise it will be kept in a heated garage - up off the floor on a lift.
If I had that I would probably do it in a heartbeat. My fear is cutting up the car and spring rolling around and not having it done or worse, not having it working.
Dave did you look at any of those subframes you can buy like this?
This is what I am looking at maybe doing if I get one....They are VERY reasonably priced and have just about everything you need. I called yesterday and I can get one for around 1500 dollars.
Your thoughts?
Sure wish I lived closer to Dave and Wheels-up. Dave wanna give me your car for the winter months to mock mine up against it...I promise it will be kept in a heated garage - up off the floor on a lift.
If I had that I would probably do it in a heartbeat. My fear is cutting up the car and spring rolling around and not having it done or worse, not having it working.
Dave did you look at any of those subframes you can buy like this?
This is what I am looking at maybe doing if I get one....They are VERY reasonably priced and have just about everything you need. I called yesterday and I can get one for around 1500 dollars.
Your thoughts?
I did that very thing in my Chevelle way back in '94 (the price then was $999). Total cost ended up being nearly $4000 when all was said and done, and this was doing the job myself. $2500 of it was in the rearend alone. I went with Mark Williams axles, spool, etc as I believe in buying things like this once. Plus add brakes (another $600 or so), and replace those "coil-over style" shocks with REAL coilovers, etc, etc. makes the job add up fast. Using 4130 rod ends over the base rod ends will add some $$$ to the party as well. I'm still debating whether or not to go to solid axle or use a Dana 44 in my street/strip project (likely I'll go solid axle).
just FYI.
Former Vendor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,204
Likes: 6
From: St Marys PA
Originally Posted by RacerX70CC
Ski,
I did that very thing in my Chevelle way back in '94 (the price then was $999). Total cost ended up being nearly $4000 when all was said and done, and this was doing the job myself. $2500 of it was in the rearend alone. I went with Mark Williams axles, spool, etc as I believe in buying things like this once. Plus add brakes (another $600 or so), and replace those "coil-over style" shocks with REAL coilovers, etc, etc. makes the job add up fast. Using 4130 rod ends over the base rod ends will add some $$$ to the party as well. I'm still debating whether or not to go to solid axle or use a Dana 44 in my street/strip project (likely I'll go solid axle).
just FYI.
I did that very thing in my Chevelle way back in '94 (the price then was $999). Total cost ended up being nearly $4000 when all was said and done, and this was doing the job myself. $2500 of it was in the rearend alone. I went with Mark Williams axles, spool, etc as I believe in buying things like this once. Plus add brakes (another $600 or so), and replace those "coil-over style" shocks with REAL coilovers, etc, etc. makes the job add up fast. Using 4130 rod ends over the base rod ends will add some $$$ to the party as well. I'm still debating whether or not to go to solid axle or use a Dana 44 in my street/strip project (likely I'll go solid axle).
just FYI.
Been there done that sorta experience here. The one I called about was for around 1500 with chromoloy link bars, and qa1 coil over, with a 9inch housing. still need lots of other stuff to complete the transition, but figure it might make some of the tedious fabricating much easier to do. All I need now is a good welder - a welder buddy, the above kit, brakes, spool, 9inch member, axles, bearings, wheels/tires .....you see what is keeping me from doing it.
I have a feeling unless I get a dandy bonus here at work this year I am going to be on the D44 next year as well.
Perhaps I will list going into the 9s on my goals for '06 here at work for my upcoming review. 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,799
Likes: 2
From: Cape Coral FL
Originally Posted by ski_dwn_it
I have a feeling unless I get a dandy bonus here at work this year I am going to be on the D44 next year as well. Perhaps I will list going into the 9s on my goals for '06 here at work for my upcoming review.
Perhaps I will list going into the 9s on my goals for '06 here at work for my upcoming review. 
I hear ya... I've got a question tho..what U-joints do you use in your 44 setup, Spicer 3150 style solids or which? And did you actually cryo the joints? I use the Spicers in my Chevelle's drivetrain and have never had to replace them in 6 years (beefy ****'s)
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Verdad Gallardo
Former Vendor
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 7,204
Likes: 6
From: St Marys PA
Yeah they are the stock 3150 series joints with no grease fittings. I cycled the entire D44 unit through the cryo unit, ujoints, 1/2 shafts, and EVERYTHING at once.
Once out I changed the fluids and relubed all the u-joints with MOBIL 1 synthetic grease. This was a suggestion of a super stock fella - said they were having the same problem with ujoints and the mobil 1 solved the problem. Perhaps it just holds up to the pressures better without breaking down.
Seems to be working though.
Once out I changed the fluids and relubed all the u-joints with MOBIL 1 synthetic grease. This was a suggestion of a super stock fella - said they were having the same problem with ujoints and the mobil 1 solved the problem. Perhaps it just holds up to the pressures better without breaking down.
Seems to be working though.
