Ok - which way to go....
working with an '91 L98 I have just rebuilt from the block up - essentially stock (125lb springs in the heads, milled, and 3way valve job) - and I have already replaced these items.
Injectors
Fuel pressure regulator
Exhaust(magnaflow, new cat)
Fuel pump
Dewitts radiator and SPAL fans
assundrious parts and modules.
What would you do. I am trying to decide whether or not to buy a crated LT1 - buy a used LT1 and build it - buy a used L98 and make a 383 out of it - make modifications to my existing L98 that obviously has some legs in it left after the rebuild. I am still sitting on the block, pistons, cam, crank that came with it - and they have 130k miles on them, but the walls werent scored, and seems strong as bull.
I just want to make sure i head in the right direction. Can i get enough of a performane increase by replacing the intake with SuperRam or something similar, chipping it, and putting headers on it?
Am i throwing good money after bad, and should swith out to an LT1, LT4 or something else ( i have seen ZZ4, but i dont know what that is )
Opinions appreciated!
Does that help?
working with an '91 L98 I have just rebuilt from the block up - essentially stock (125lb springs in the heads, milled, and 3way valve job) - and I have already replaced these items.
Injectors
Fuel pressure regulator
Exhaust(magnaflow, new cat)
Fuel pump
Dewitts radiator and SPAL fans
assundrious parts and modules.
What would you do. I am trying to decide whether or not to buy a crated LT1 - buy a used LT1 and build it - buy a used L98 and make a 383 out of it - make modifications to my existing L98 that obviously has some legs in it left after the rebuild. I am still sitting on the block, pistons, cam, crank that came with it - and they have 130k miles on them, but the walls werent scored, and seems strong as bull.
I just want to make sure i head in the right direction. Can i get enough of a performane increase by replacing the intake with SuperRam or something similar, chipping it, and putting headers on it?
Am i throwing good money after bad, and should swith out to an LT1, LT4 or something else ( i have seen ZZ4, but i dont know what that is )
Opinions appreciated!
Use the money to pay for GAS to drive it.....
Longtube headers, hi-flo cats, and catback system
Modified LT1 intake from www.lt1intake.com
Computer tune from www.pcmforless.com
If you can do all that, and still have money left over, an LPE 219 cam or a copycat thereof would ge a good choice. Accompanied by a custom computer tune.
Still got cash left? Heads would be the next step if I were doing it. Professionally porting your stock heads can yield great results, or you can go to an aftermarket vendor. Trickflow makes a decent bang for the buck L98 head, as does canfield. Again, custom computer tune.
If that's still within the budget, a stroker is the next step. Scat makes a cast 3.75 stroke crank that will reliably support more than 500 RWHP. I'd probably go that route, and use some budget minded forged rods and pistons. I've had good luck with Probe rods and pistons in the past, so I'd probably use them again.
Design the whole thing with about a 10:1 compression ratio, and keep the cam on the reasonable side, and it should drive almost stock. Another custom computer tune, and there is no reason you shouldn't make 350+ RWHP. 400 RWHP isn't out of the question.
At this point, if there was still money left over, I would buy either a stall converter or a clutch, depending on trans type.
If I STILL had play money burning a hole in my pocket I'd probably install a nitrous kit. I should be able to make 500 RWHP/600 RWTQ on the bottle, and my girl friend could drive it to the store.
That's just one way to do it. You could supercharge the car, or build it another 100 ways. That's just what I would do if I had money to burn.
Always remember, people on the net will spend your money much more freely than they would their own, so take internet advice with a grain of salt.
I wouldn't consider swapping to an LT1. Lot's of work for only about a 30 RWHP gain.
-port & work the #113s or go with new heads
-a nice cam (zz9 or 219)
-FL headers with dual exhaust & dual cats
-Accel base & LT runners
-AFPR for tuning
-custom chip for fine tuning
To finish off the drive train do a shift kit and 2,000-2,200rpm tc. If you plan on really thrashing it at the strip install a D44 rear.
You should be able to run mid 12s even at a track like Firebird and be very streetable.
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So what i hear is go ahead and stay with the L98, and just build her stronger. Now with a block that has 130k miles on it, would you all recommend i build another to take the punishment, or would 130k miles on the pistons, rings, and crank not worry you?
You can get a crate engine in about any hp you want that would still be drivable and have the torque band where you want it. Do you really want all your torque at 8000 rpms or do you want heavy torque at 1500 rpms and carry it thru to say 6000.
Crate may cost a little more in the long run but you know it will run and stay together or they will give you another one.










