No Brakes ___ Well Sorta
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 689
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From: Big City Tennessee
No Brakes ___ Well Sorta
Ok, Im diving my 1991 L98 two nights ago on the interstate when this 94 or 95 Mustang GT pulls up wanting to race. I said to myself, "Self, go ahead its late and you have all this road for the taking. We race and after about a half a mile a car pulls out in front of me. I am forced to stab the brakes at 120mph. 
I continue home and when I pull up to the next red light I smell breaks and see a little smoke. No big deal I say. Well, now I have to put my pedal ALL the way to the floor before I can get her to stop. Any idea what I screwed up? BTW, fluid is at the right level. Also, I did kick the Mustangs butt........ 
Any help would be great, guys.......
I continue home and when I pull up to the next red light I smell breaks and see a little smoke. No big deal I say. Well, now I have to put my pedal ALL the way to the floor before I can get her to stop. Any idea what I screwed up? BTW, fluid is at the right level. Also, I did kick the Mustangs butt........ Any help would be great, guys.......
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,088
Likes: 0
From: Poop land
No street racing stories here, but I'm guessing you warped your rotors or one of your pads disintegrated. I'd also think you might have popped a break line. Check for leaks around the MC or on any of the brake lines. This same incident happened to me once, but on my old Honda. Anyways, good job on putting the Stank down to its place though. 
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,638
Likes: 3
First of all you don't "warp" rotors. See http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml
for a detailed explanation. Second of all a "warped" rotor would give a pulsing petal. A disintegrated pad should give off a big time squeal.
I'm thinking that he needs to check brake lines, change fluid, and bleed the system - looking for leaks.
Carl "just my 2 cents worth" Johansson
for a detailed explanation. Second of all a "warped" rotor would give a pulsing petal. A disintegrated pad should give off a big time squeal.
I'm thinking that he needs to check brake lines, change fluid, and bleed the system - looking for leaks.
Carl "just my 2 cents worth" Johansson
Originally Posted by k0rv3tt389
No street racing stories here, but I'm guessing you warped your rotors or one of your pads disintegrated. I'd also think you might have popped a break line. Check for leaks around the MC or on any of the brake lines. This same incident happened to me once, but on my old Honda. Anyways, good job on putting the Stank down to its place though.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
So if I touch the brakes and it spins the steering back and forth, that's not warped? I see how a pulsating pedal could be from buildup, but there's only one way I see how it'd yank on the steering wheel, the rotor is trying to center itself in the caliper. Calipers don't float very well when they're applying brakes.
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Racer
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 301
Likes: 0
From: Dallas/Spring Texas
There are a series of seals in the master cylinder and it can have an internal fluid bypass that can cause that condition. If you flush the fluid with new stuff and still have the condition then it's most likely the MC. Good luck with it.
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,088
Likes: 0
From: Poop land
When my MC once started leaking, I got a used one on ebay for $50. Took me about 2 hours to install right /w the pedal to my liking. If you go to an auto parts store, they are about $250 for a reman. Go to the dealership for a brand new one and they run for about $500.01 + 23587.83% inflation because of Corvette tax.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 784
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I lost my brakes on the drive from the office to the house yesterday. (30 miles through Memphis traffic) Got home and the front resevoir was dry, the rear full. Checked driver's carpet for fluid - dry. Check bottom of booster for "mess" - clean and dry. Found slight splatter on front of booster but I think I did that opening the rear cup (res). MC looks clean, felt along bottom, negative results for mess, wetness. Looked real hard at each caliper and inside wheel rim - no mess or dust gathering in wet places. Checked brake line to caliper connection - dry and slightly dusty. Followed brake line to joint with hard line - same story. Wheels are 3 weeks old so there is absolutely no junk on them. (I wash 'em about every 6 or 7 days.) I'm baffled but I wonder if the MC could be leaking to the rear and into the booster and thus not visible from the outside? BTW, I'm really enjoying all you guys' input. Big help for a low-time Vette owner.
