Keep after it!
12.18 even with engine dying!!!
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,935
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Well, the DELTEQ box on the cylinder head was loose. And the Engine coolant temp sensor on the water pump was snapped off. I think the Camber Brace was a little too close and when the motor reved up, it may have broke it.
SO, off to get a sensor from some store that is open on Sunday.
SO, off to get a sensor from some store that is open on Sunday.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,596
Likes: 19
From: Portland Oregon
Originally Posted by steve40th
Well, the DELTEQ box on the cylinder head was loose. And the Engine coolant temp sensor on the water pump was snapped off. I think the Camber Brace was a little too close and when the motor reved up, it may have broke it.
SO, off to get a sensor from some store that is open on Sunday.
SO, off to get a sensor from some store that is open on Sunday.
Hey Steve, if the ECT sensor separated from the engine then the PCM will think that the engine is at -40c and it will fuel for that temperature. Which can explain the black plugs.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,935
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Update. Replaced sensor, no start.
It is firing, but not the way it whould be as it goes through the Tbody(backfire) and burbles through the exhaust.
ANy help.
PS, Pete is working via email. Great help from him.
It is firing, but not the way it whould be as it goes through the Tbody(backfire) and burbles through the exhaust.
ANy help.
PS, Pete is working via email. Great help from him.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,935
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Originally Posted by FD2BLK
Steve,
Just a shot but have you replaced the plugs? If you dumped a bunch of fuel because of the sensors the plugs could have fouled. It might be worth pulling the plugs and taking a look.
Just a shot but have you replaced the plugs? If you dumped a bunch of fuel because of the sensors the plugs could have fouled. It might be worth pulling the plugs and taking a look.
Pete is sendig me another Opti Box. I have an Opti in route, so I can remove the rotor. Just in case mine is that bad. Only 35 bucks.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,655
Likes: 24
From: Charleston SC
Originally Posted by steve40th
Yep, did that this morning. No go.
Pete is sendig me another Opti Box. I have an Opti in route, so I can remove the rotor. Just in case mine is that bad. Only 35 bucks.
Pete is sendig me another Opti Box. I have an Opti in route, so I can remove the rotor. Just in case mine is that bad. Only 35 bucks.
Steve,
Your post is not clear so I have to ask. If the Opti turns out to be bad you are going to remove the rotor from the new Opti so it wont explode? I Hate to even mention it and I am sure you know but the rotor is not needed with the Delteq. As for removing the rotor if that is the way you are going to go you wil either need shorter screws or spacers or the screws will hit. I had two spacers that worked perfect but just thought I would let you know before you get to far down the road.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,789
Likes: 8
From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Alot has happen since my last post.It looks like the sensor screwed up your fuel trim that is why you BLM's were screwed.You say it fired did it run at all?My gut says it is not the opti there was no problem before until the sensor went bad.Unfortunately that makes it engine related possibly from running with the screwed up fuel trim for so long.Did you notice it sooner and did not chase it down or was it running right then went bad?What I am asking is how long do you think the sensor was bad before you found it?I know you really don't want to hear this and I hope it is an opti problem it looks to be a cheaper fix.Running Lt1s as lean as your scan had it is a BAD thing.Ask Hotrod 90 what happens to a mis-tuned engine(in your case caused by the sensor).The other thing that has me going HMMMM is the major split in your BLMs I would expect both to be rich with the sensor off. Not one extremely rich and the other extremely lean.Something is up with that.......
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,935
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Originally Posted by FD2BLK
Steve,
Your post is not clear so I have to ask. If the Opti turns out to be bad you are going to remove the rotor from the new Opti so it wont explode? I Hate to even mention it and I am sure you know but the rotor is not needed with the Delteq. As for removing the rotor if that is the way you are going to go you wil either need shorter screws or spacers or the screws will hit. I had two spacers that worked perfect but just thought I would let you know before you get to far down the road.
Your post is not clear so I have to ask. If the Opti turns out to be bad you are going to remove the rotor from the new Opti so it wont explode? I Hate to even mention it and I am sure you know but the rotor is not needed with the Delteq. As for removing the rotor if that is the way you are going to go you wil either need shorter screws or spacers or the screws will hit. I had two spacers that worked perfect but just thought I would let you know before you get to far down the road.
What size spacers do I need and where to put them.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,935
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Originally Posted by Redeasysport
Alot has happen since my last post.It looks like the sensor screwed up your fuel trim that is why you BLM's were screwed.You say it fired did it run at all?My gut says it is not the opti there was no problem before until the sensor went bad.Unfortunately that makes it engine related possibly from running with the screwed up fuel trim for so long.Did you notice it sooner and did not chase it down or was it running right then went bad?What I am asking is how long do you think the sensor was bad before you found it?I know you really don't want to hear this and I hope it is an opti problem it looks to be a cheaper fix.Running Lt1s as lean as your scan had it is a BAD thing.Ask Hotrod 90 what happens to a mis-tuned engine(in your case caused by the sensor).The other thing that has me going HMMMM is the major split in your BLMs I would expect both to be rich with the sensor off. Not one extremely rich and the other extremely lean.Something is up with that.......
I think that TJWONG and Alvin feel it went rich at the track . I think what happened is the Camber Brace hit it after I took off and snapped it, then the computer richened it up real quick.
Or the sensor was already cracked and it finally needed that extra oomph at the track and went.
Mileage wise, maybe 15 miles total on this BLM split, mostly highway. The day before the BLMs were real good.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,789
Likes: 8
From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Originally Posted by steve40th
Well, the motor was running fine for about half track, then fell on its face rich. Before that I drove down the highway with no apparent issues . The valvetrain and plugs are a little black, but will fire, as I took a couple out and plugged the spark plug wire into them and turned the motor over, and they fired.
I think that TJWONG and Alvin feel it went rich at the track . I think what happened is the Camber Brace hit it after I took off and snapped it, then the computer richened it up real quick.
Or the sensor was already cracked and it finally needed that extra oomph at the track and went.
Mileage wise, maybe 15 miles total on this BLM split, mostly highway. The day before the BLMs were real good.
I think that TJWONG and Alvin feel it went rich at the track . I think what happened is the Camber Brace hit it after I took off and snapped it, then the computer richened it up real quick.
Or the sensor was already cracked and it finally needed that extra oomph at the track and went.
Mileage wise, maybe 15 miles total on this BLM split, mostly highway. The day before the BLMs were real good.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,935
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Originally Posted by Redeasysport
Well sounds like it was not too long before you found it.What did Alvin say to explain the split?I just can't see one side going lean like that,rich sure but not lean.Still bothers me and if the Parts you have coming don't do it you know where to start looking.Don't forget to come back and summarize when you get it straight.If it weren't for bad luck you'd have no luck at all with it this year
I will summarize what happens. The split could be anything at idle, remember it wasnt closed loop. And I never recieved any codes.?
Steve
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 3,655
Likes: 24
From: Charleston SC
Originally Posted by steve40th
I am haveing a used Opti sent, and I will prepare it for use , by taking out the cap/rotor.
What size spacers do I need and where to put them.
What size spacers do I need and where to put them.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,935
Likes: 38
From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Originally Posted by FD2BLK
Well You will want to keep the cap unless you had pete send you the cap eliminator piece he sells. as for thr spacers they will be aprox the thickness of the rotor where the two screws that hold it in place is. You are just comensating for the thickness of the rotor because the screws are still needed.
