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Hey guys - how do I get the rear halfshafts out? I think I have a bad u-joint on the pass side... Car is an '85 4+3. Can they be snaked out of there without pulling out a whole ton of parts?
As I recall, it's not too bad of a job. Once you get the car secured up on jack stands, take the shock and the stabilizer off the knuckle. This will allow you to pull the knuckle out far enough to get the shaft to come out once you get the bolts out of the u-joint retaining straps. I don't remember the size of the strap bolts but use a 6 point socket on them, you don't want these rounding off.
The socket is 5/16. - Before you do below - take staps off of
universals.
Easiest way to uninstall half shafts
1) take picture and count threads below bolt on long bolt that maintains spring. (very important to put wheels back into alignment)
2) take out 2 lower bolts (2 on each side) on rear gear housing/differential that holds the lower arm that that goes to ball joint.
With these 2 bolts and 1 nut on each side out the hub will move out enough for the half-shaft to pop out. This is a bit unorthodox and not the way most would do it. But I got this procedure from Corkvette1 and I followed it with no problems.
Replace all 4 with good Spicer universals - other brands will not hold up to the torq.
I replace mine every other year do to torq and racing.
I just did mine a couple of weeks ago.
The strap bolts are 8mm. You don't have to drop the spring or take the shock off. Just take off the tie rod from the knuckle and take off the camber adjusting cam bolt (mark it first!).
You'll have to use a pry bar to jar loose the ujoints from the mounting flanges but it's not too bad.
I found the hardest part was actually hammering out the old ones and hammering in the new ones. If I were to do it again, I would take the shafts to a machine shop and have the new ones pressed in.
Tip; Easiest way to get at uni strap bolts on diff ceter is to take wheel off , use 2 feet of extentions and go in over the top of the halfshaft.Beats lying on your back trying to get at them from below where your socket will bind up on the shaft as they undo..
From: Former NCM Drag Racing coordinator, National director Corvette Challenge Spring Hill, Tennessee: Whiting, New Jersey
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Originally Posted by rodj
Same here .
Tip; Easiest way to get at uni strap bolts on diff ceter is to take wheel off , use 2 feet of extentions and go in over the top of the halfshaft.Beats lying on your back trying to get at them from below where your socket will bind up on the shaft as they undo..
And add an air gun and it makes it easer, just have plenty of 8mm sockets.
I just did mine a couple of weeks ago.
The strap bolts are 8mm. You don't have to drop the spring or take the shock off. Just take off the tie rod from the knuckle and take off the camber adjusting cam bolt (mark it first!).
You'll have to use a pry bar to jar loose the ujoints from the mounting flanges but it's not too bad.
I found the hardest part was actually hammering out the old ones and hammering in the new ones. If I were to do it again, I would take the shafts to a machine shop and have the new ones pressed in.
Jon, for you and anyone else, go to the Harbor Freight website and take a look at the universal joint tool they have. It looks like a huge beefy c-clamp, once you change a u-joint with this tool you'll never use a hammer on them again. It makes it so easy. Plus, you can also change your lower ball joints, press in poly bushings, all with the same tool. It will pay for itself the first time you use it.
Jon, for you and anyone else, go to the Harbor Freight website and take a look at the universal joint tool they have. It looks like a huge beefy c-clamp, once you change a u-joint with this tool you'll never use a hammer on them again. It makes it so easy. Plus, you can also change your lower ball joints, press in poly bushings, all with the same tool. It will pay for itself the first time you use it.
I agree, I bought one for U-joints and have done ball joints, bushings and whatever. Great help, no more hammering for me.
Sorry, I should have included the number, here it is:
38335. Just go to harbor Freight's site and type this number in the search and it comes right up. One of the handiest work savers I have.