C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Any Spark Plug Changing Tricks???

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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 06:05 PM
  #1  
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Default Any Spark Plug Changing Tricks???

Gonna change the Plugs on a 95'. Any suggestions as how to keep me from destroying my knuckles??
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 07:07 PM
  #2  
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DON'T DO IT YOU WILL KILL YOURSELF!

Snap-on 5/8 swivle spark plug socket,3/8 ratchet with a off set head .
13/16 open end wrench ,a streight 5/8 spark plug socket.
If the plug is hard to unscrew,take it in a couple of turns with each turn out.
Run some carb cleaner through the engine to clean out the carbon.
Get some vaccum hose to install the plug and maybe an old streight plug boot to help screw in the plug,even though th vaccum hose will do.
Remove the asr,get a long handel screw driver or long bar with a 30 degree angle at the end to remove spark plug boots and some mechanics gloves will help for the pass side when yoiu break a knuckle on the dipstick bolt.
Do this once a week and you will be an expert at it .
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 08:13 PM
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Should I remove the Cruise Contrle Module or anything in my way?
Looks pretty cluttered down there? Yuk!!!!!
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 09:02 PM
  #4  
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Need help !
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 10:07 PM
  #5  
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This may not be an alternative for you, but I have my mechanic change them. This time, I bought the plugs and he changed them for free. First time, it was about $100 parts and labor (thank you EM).
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 08:32 AM
  #6  
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Yeah, the first time is always the longest. I moved my ASR thing out of the way on the driver side. The bolts are through the fender well. Also, I have heard taking he fender well off but, that seems like too much trouble. Once you move the ASR unit out of the way , the driver side is pretty much straight forward. The passenger side back two plugs will give you some trouble though, I used a regular spark plug socket and a wrench to the out side of the socket to break them loose, then a rubber hose will help spin them out. The first time I did them, it took around 4 hours?? The second tme it took around two. I almost forgot... turn around and face away from the back plugs will help get your hands in there to work. I am right handed and I coulldn't get my hand in there facing the car but worked fine turning around, sitting on the tire and dropping my right hand down to the plug. That move alone is good for cutting the time in half (ther's always a trick). Good luck and get plenty of band aids
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 09:24 AM
  #7  
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Dude... take out your driver's side splash shield. It's a lot of screws, but I didn't have to mess with the ASR unit as much. Plus, you can actually see what you're doing this way! Remember, wobble extensions are your friend.

BTW, the next time I do this, I'm planning on using this ratchet on the passenger side:





It's a gearless articulating design (from Japan) that I found on ebay for a whole 1.25.

If it makes this job easier, then it will have been worth it.
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 09:25 AM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by RUBYREDVETTECARD
... and get plenty of band aids
Just thought that I would mention how dramatically
my band-aid consumption dropped after I began
using nitrile 'surgical' gloves in the shop.

While I started because I became concened about
exposure to the chemicals in use now, I soon noticed
that my hands weren't as beat up after a wrenching
session.

Nitrile ones (usually blue) are a little harder to find
and a bit more money than latex. I don't know if
latex has the same level of anti-skinning protection
but they have to be better than nothing.

.
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 09:34 AM
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Passenger side took awhile on my 92LT1. Broke the insulator off the old plug on the very back one against the firewall. Took some creative wrenching but finally got it out and the new one back in. Needless to say the language coming from the garage was not the most pleasant when I did that. Drivers side was easier but I moved the ASR out of the way. It helped but it all still a tight area.
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 12:39 PM
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My headers go directly over some of my plugs, enough clearance for safe operation, but not enough to fit a socket over them. I used a 5/8th ring spanner (pictured below incase you call it something else) and this got them all no worries with out pulling anything off the car or the engine. You wont have to worry about burns, the heads should be cool before you remove any plugs

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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by ElCheevo
. Needless to say the language coming from the garage was not the most pleasant when I did that. .
Youd fit right in here in Australia then!!! I cracked the same plug when putting the new one in, which is why i went to the ring spanner.
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 03:29 PM
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Your ring spanner is what I know as a box-end
wrench. If one end is closed and the other is open,
I call it a box-end/open-end wrench.

Many fond memories of knocking around your part
of the world 20 years ago in a 1970 Falcon panel van.

.
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 03:58 PM
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One word: Sidewinder!

http://www.madvet.com/shop?frame=1.66.173

I have the 3/8" drive Sidewinder Speedwrench, and it has to be one of the BEST tools I've ever purchased. I can swap out a set of plugs in my '89 in about 30 minutes! I couldn't even imagine trying to change plugs without it. Worth every cent.
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Slalom4me
Your ring spanner is what I know as a box-end
wrench. If one end is closed and the other is open,
I call it a box-end/open-end wrench.

Many fond memories of knocking around your part
of the world 20 years ago in a 1970 Falcon panel van.

.
Roger that, Was it the V8? XWs were pretty good Falcons too. A mate of mine has an XW Phase 2 Falcon GTHO sitting in his sister's garage... without a doubt the second most collectable car in this country, second only to the GTHO Phase 3.

Anyway, back to ring spanners, or box end wrench as the case may be, that is what i use, and with some headers including mine, its all you can use unless you pull the headers off. They shouldnt be that tight that youll injure yourself.
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