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R D Racing ST frame 47 pounds, front passenger seat ?? Camber Brace ?? Front sway bar (32 0r 30,mm solid whatever the 93 ZO7 was)??
Spare tire is gone. What else?
Anything else I can remove to assist in gettting one or two tenths down.
Limited funds and time. I dont need the S/T Frame for the track, as yo dont need it till 11.49. I have
My '88 sport seat & track is worth maybe 40lbs or so, pretty heavy assembly.
Spare & jack could be another 40-45lbs.
Dropping from 3/4 tank to 1/4 tank of fuel is worth about 60lbs.
These should be worth 1.5sec reduction in ET or more properly increase in trap speed.
If you hit the track with a good DA that will give you some added power.
My front sway bar is hollow so almost no weight there.
I hear the parts I am looking at taking off arent light, but I have no scale, so I am looking to see if anyone knows the weights.
100 pounds huh, well I if I didnt eat, and took allot of exlaxx ....
My '88 sport seat & track is worth maybe 40lbs or so, pretty heavy assembly.
Spare & jack could be another 40-45lbs.
Dropping from 3/4 tank to 1/4 tank of fuel is worth about 60lbs.
These should be worth 1.5sec reduction in ET or more properly increase in trap speed.
If you hit the track with a good DA that will give you some added power.
My front sway bar is hollow so almost no weight there.
one thing to consider is rim weight. 1 lb off a rim is the same as 10 off the body, because its rotational mass. good light weight rims, save 10 lbs off each tire, 40 total, is like 400 pounds less (is what i am told).
i have forgelines on mine. supposed to be 10 pounds lighter per rim, i bought the car with them on it.
one thing to consider is rim weight. 1 lb off a rim is the same as 10 off the body, because its rotational mass. good light weight rims, save 10 lbs off each tire, 40 total, is like 400 pounds less (is what i am told).
i have forgelines on mine. supposed to be 10 pounds lighter per rim, i bought the car with them on it.
I should have never sold my Welds. But with C5 brakes up front adn going to the 17 ET STreet (not radials) I have stock A Molds all the way around, so it is a little decieveing when I race someone.
If you have an electric seat on the drivers side and mechanical on the passenger side remove the drivers side seat and put the passenger seat inplace ,of the drivers seat.
About 40 lbs. diff.
The only problem ,if you have the seat up to far the lever for the seat back can trigger and throw the seat back foward.
Install the plastic head lights from mid america,dump the glass 2 lbs.
Remove the A/C.
Remove the carpet 36 lbs.
Remove the top ,but it will slow the car about a .10
Wax the car less wind resistance.
Change out my regular battery at the track and put in lite weight Odyssey PC680. Weighs 13 LBS. About 25 LBS less than regular. Works well all day even with start and stop in staging lanes. Car weighs 2995. Battery costs $68.00
Change out my regular battery at the track and put in a light
weight Odyssey PC680.
"L 7-3/16, W 3-1/16, H 6-9/16(in). 15 lbs. Top and side terminals."
It appears too small to clamp securely using the OEM method. Did
you add an aftermarket bracket and something to keep the battery
from sliding around on the mounting plate?
Also, what's your trick for quickly R&R'ing the C4 battery at the track?
It appears too small to clamp securely using the OEM method. Did
you add an aftermarket bracket and something to keep the battery
from sliding around on the mounting plate?
Also, what's your trick for quickly R&R'ing the C4 battery at the track?
.[/QUOTE]
The battery on its side attached to the connectors fits snug on top of the factory mounting plate. Keep all screws on the side panel just tight enough where I could unscrew by hand. Used special wrench for connectors. Did not use battery hold down bracket and bolt.
one thing to consider is rim weight. 1 lb off a rim is the same as 10 off the body, because its rotational mass. good light weight rims, save 10 lbs off each tire, 40 total, is like 400 pounds less (is what i am told).
i have forgelines on mine. supposed to be 10 pounds lighter per rim, i bought the car with them on it.
Except with the 1lb = 10. I was told that 1lb of rotational mass = 3 to 4 lbs of body mass which worked out to be about correct if the rule of thumb of 100 lbs = 1 tenth of a second.
I purchased John Mackeys old race wheels and tires. They are the 26x11.5x15 ET Streets (bias ply) on 15x10 Weld rear wheels and 165x15 radial tires on the front on 15x3.5 weld wheels.
I have a set of digital refrigerant scales that are very accurate, and the difference in weight between my stock wheels and mich. tires, vs the race wheels and tires is 74 lbs.
Be careful with the fuel - I keep mine near 1/2. If you get starvation off the line - no fuel, you will never forget the feeling.
Good Luck
PS - If you trailor it and get rid of the exhaust, you will be there.
But dont it drive you crazy that a "sports car" is designed with such a poor fuel pick up as the C-4 has? Its another one of the things that in the 12 years that the C-4 was produced, they never corrected.
The exhaust idea, I have been considering doing myself. If you do, look at where your headers will be exhausting all that heat. I believe you need a turndown off of the header to protect the shift cable etc, on the transmission.