Installing camber-brace PITA
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,471
Likes: 2
From: 1993 Quasar Blue 'vert Scottsdale AZ
Installing camber-brace PITA
I'm not super mechanically inclined, but I'm not a total idiot either. Been trying to install my new camber brace for last two hours. I'm having a rum and coke now to settle down. Followed the instruction to the tee, but the sucker just won't squeeze in there. Plus the instruction don't mention that in order to remove the driver's side bolt, you need to remove the serpentine belt. It's just sort of wedged in there now. I will try again Saturday morning. If I can't get it installed, I will remove it and sell it ( if I don't have to get a torch and cut it in half to remove it. I could have made one at work about 1/4" thinner that would fit for about $10. Sorry Dave, but I am kind of pissed-off right now. Go ahead and flame, guys.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,471
Likes: 2
From: 1993 Quasar Blue 'vert Scottsdale AZ
Originally Posted by Jeffvette
I agree it is a pita.
Try it on a ZR-1. Then try R&R the serpentine belt while it's installed.
Try it on a ZR-1. Then try R&R the serpentine belt while it's installed.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,789
Likes: 8
From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Had to take the belt off to get my d/s bolt out.Once that bolt is out then it goes togther a lot easier.So if you haven't taken the bolt out do it now.
I imagine if you had someone on the other side pull up on the tensioner while you get the bolt out it might work.I could not try that as it took 2 hands to get the bolt and I did it by my lonesome.
I imagine if you had someone on the other side pull up on the tensioner while you get the bolt out it might work.I could not try that as it took 2 hands to get the bolt and I did it by my lonesome.
Last edited by Redeasysport; Nov 17, 2005 at 08:23 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,471
Likes: 2
From: 1993 Quasar Blue 'vert Scottsdale AZ
Originally Posted by Redeasysport
Had to take the belt off to get my d/s bolt out.Once that bolt is out then it goes togther a lot easier.So if you haven't taken the bolt out do it now.
I imagine if you had someone on the other side pull up on the tensioner while you get the bolt out it might work.I could not try that as it took 2 hands to get the bolt and I did it by my lonesome.
I imagine if you had someone on the other side pull up on the tensioner while you get the bolt out it might work.I could not try that as it took 2 hands to get the bolt and I did it by my lonesome.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
Likes: 4,009
From: Texas
Originally Posted by Lichen
That's what I was thinking. If there were two of us, it would have been a lot easier. It's dark out now, so I'll get some help Saturday morning and remove the belt. It's probably just the fact that it was after work with only a little bit of sunlight left that made me go ballistic. Where's the Valium!
You don't need to remove the serpentine belt to take the bolt out. The belt will slip off the idler pulley (push it towards the front of the car) that bolts to the accessory bracket and you can easily slide the belt back over the pulley when you reinstall the bolt. You'll still need to dodge the ps pump pulley. If you look at the bolt head you'll notice it's squared off on two sides. Rotate it so one of the squared off sides slips past the pulley.
Some of the Camber Braces I've seen are slotted where the bolts pass thru versus having a hole. If you have a slotted one, there's no reason to remove the bolt, you only have to loosen the nut enough to slip the CB in behind the bolt head. Dave supplies longer bolts for those cars that are set up with tons of alignment shims, but you can use the stock bolts without issue. In fact, the stock bolts are formed (behind the bollt head) so they won't spin when tightening the nut.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,471
Likes: 2
From: 1993 Quasar Blue 'vert Scottsdale AZ
Originally Posted by 96GS#007
If you haven't removed the driver's side inner fender panel (remove three 10mm bolts at the rear of the panel and loosen the two 10mm bolts that secure the front), you're making life waaaaaaaay too difficult. Remove the inner panel on the passenger side the same way (it also has two 7mm bolts that hold the metal coolant lines to it).
You don't need to remove the serpentine belt to take the bolt out. The belt will slip off the idler pulley (push it towards the front of the car) that bolts to the accessory bracket and you can easily slide the belt back over the pulley when you reinstall the bolt. You'll still need to dodge the ps pump pulley. If you look at the bolt head you'll notice it's squared off on two sides. Rotate it so one of the squared off sides slips past the pulley.
Some of the Camber Braces I've seen are slotted where the bolts pass thru versus having a hole. If you have a slotted one, there's no reason to remove the bolt, you only have to loosen the nut enough to slip the CB in behind the bolt head. Dave supplies longer bolts for those cars that are set up with tons of alignment shims, but you can use the stock bolts without issue. In fact, the stock bolts are formed (behind the bollt head) so they won't spin when tightening the nut.
You don't need to remove the serpentine belt to take the bolt out. The belt will slip off the idler pulley (push it towards the front of the car) that bolts to the accessory bracket and you can easily slide the belt back over the pulley when you reinstall the bolt. You'll still need to dodge the ps pump pulley. If you look at the bolt head you'll notice it's squared off on two sides. Rotate it so one of the squared off sides slips past the pulley.
Some of the Camber Braces I've seen are slotted where the bolts pass thru versus having a hole. If you have a slotted one, there's no reason to remove the bolt, you only have to loosen the nut enough to slip the CB in behind the bolt head. Dave supplies longer bolts for those cars that are set up with tons of alignment shims, but you can use the stock bolts without issue. In fact, the stock bolts are formed (behind the bollt head) so they won't spin when tightening the nut.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,202
Likes: 9
From: St. louis, MO
I've put mine on twice, only removed the belt the first time because I needed to replace it anyway. You'll be glad you went through the "trouble" once its installed and take the Vette for a "spirited" drive.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 6,202
Likes: 9
From: St. louis, MO
Originally Posted by Lichen
I could have made one at work about 1/4" thinner that would fit for about $10. Sorry Dave, but I am kind of pissed-off right now. Go ahead and flame, guys.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 20,179
Likes: 673
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
The good part is; you only have to install it once!
I opened up the same bolt hole your fighting with. Made my life much easier and didn't hurt the bar at all.
I opened up the same bolt hole your fighting with. Made my life much easier and didn't hurt the bar at all.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
I ground a chamfer into that bolt hole so I could get more room to get the bolt in from an angle. Seems like it'd be easier to install if the slotted holes were rotated 90*
Does he make an aluminum one? This thing is damn heavy.
Does he make an aluminum one? This thing is damn heavy.
Last edited by CentralCoaster; Nov 18, 2005 at 02:33 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 2,604
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Originally Posted by 96GS#007
If you haven't removed the driver's side inner fender panel (remove three 10mm bolts at the rear of the panel and loosen the two 10mm bolts that secure the front), you're making life waaaaaaaay too difficult. Remove the inner panel on the passenger side the same way (it also has two 7mm bolts that hold the metal coolant lines to it).
You don't need to remove the serpentine belt to take the bolt out. The belt will slip off the idler pulley (push it towards the front of the car) that bolts to the accessory bracket and you can easily slide the belt back over the pulley when you reinstall the bolt. You'll still need to dodge the ps pump pulley. If you look at the bolt head you'll notice it's squared off on two sides. Rotate it so one of the squared off sides slips past the pulley.
You don't need to remove the serpentine belt to take the bolt out. The belt will slip off the idler pulley (push it towards the front of the car) that bolts to the accessory bracket and you can easily slide the belt back over the pulley when you reinstall the bolt. You'll still need to dodge the ps pump pulley. If you look at the bolt head you'll notice it's squared off on two sides. Rotate it so one of the squared off sides slips past the pulley.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 65
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Ive never seen one of these in anything other than pictures, but you would have the front jacked up to remove load from them wouldnt you? Just looking down the from of my right hand drive LT1 engine bay i really dont know if id even be able to fit one, my heater lines run through there to the left side of the car, along with A/C lines that are not normally there...
Here is a pic, what do you guys think? I know its hard to say from the angle, but do you think id fit one?Thanks in advance for your help
Here is a pic, what do you guys think? I know its hard to say from the angle, but do you think id fit one?Thanks in advance for your help
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,670
Likes: 4
From: Severna Park MD
Originally Posted by Casethecorvetteman
Ive never seen one of these in anything other than pictures, but you would have the front jacked up to remove load from them wouldnt you? Just looking down the from of my right hand drive LT1 engine bay i really dont know if id even be able to fit one, my heater lines run through there to the left side of the car, along with A/C lines that are not normally there...
Here is a pic, what do you guys think? I know its hard to say from the angle, but do you think id fit one?Thanks in advance for your help
Here is a pic, what do you guys think? I know its hard to say from the angle, but do you think id fit one?Thanks in advance for your help
It's a bit of a sideways view from both sides, maybe you can see how the Camber Brace fits through the normal plumbing.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 12,832
Likes: 210
From: Canton GA
Cruise-In III Veteran
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'10-'11-'12
If you put a jack under the front crossmember and jack the car up, the upper A-arm mount will flex as much as a quarter of an inch giving you room to remove that bolt. That's exactaly what the camber brace is there to do, reduce that flex!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 9,036
Likes: 13
From: Edmonton AB
Originally Posted by Casethecorvetteman
but you would have the front jacked up to remove load from
them wouldnt you?
them wouldnt you?
or accumulated adventures.
Originally Posted by Casethecorvetteman
Just looking down from the top of my
right hand drive LT1 engine bay i really dont know if I'd even be
able to fit one, my heater lines run through there to the left side of the
car, along with A/C lines that are not normally there...
right hand drive LT1 engine bay i really dont know if I'd even be
able to fit one, my heater lines run through there to the left side of the
car, along with A/C lines that are not normally there...
in place (it sits lower) but they may slow down installation.
Edit: (The A/C reciever-drier below and to the right of the intake
snorkle might be a problem.)
Actually it looks like it is in the same location as FelnGr8's
.
Last edited by Slalom4me; Nov 18, 2005 at 12:49 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 65
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Originally Posted by FELNGR8
There are two pictures of mine in this thread. Handling upgrades
It's a bit of a sideways view from both sides, maybe you can see how the Camber Brace fits through the normal plumbing.
It's a bit of a sideways view from both sides, maybe you can see how the Camber Brace fits through the normal plumbing.
Arrrr yes, i see where it goes, i didnt know it actually went behing the compressor lines,that would solve a few issues on that end, as for the centre ill have to have a good look when it gets to be day time. Thanks mate.
Originally Posted by Slalom4me
Edit: (The A/C reciever-drier below and to the right of the intake
snorkle might be a problem.)
Actually it looks like it is in the same location as FelnGr8's
.
Last edited by Casethecorvetteman; Nov 18, 2005 at 12:54 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 5,214
Likes: 65
From: Queensland, AUSTRALIA
Originally Posted by Slalom4me
Edit: (The A/C reciever-drier below and to the right of the intake
snorkle might be a problem.)
Actually it looks like it is in the same location as FelnGr8's
.
Last edited by Casethecorvetteman; Nov 18, 2005 at 12:55 PM.