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Ive just noticed my KONI shocks on my 94 are infact adjustable, its writen on the lower part of the shock body. Does anyone know how to adjust these or where i can find some detailed info about them? They are the yellow ones, ill try and get a picture of them done tomorrow morning,cause its night time here at the moment... Thanks in advance
Ive just noticed my KONI shocks on my 94 are infact adjustable, its writen on the lower part of the shock body. Does anyone know how to adjust these or where i can find some detailed info about them? They are the yellow ones, ill try and get a picture of them done tomorrow morning,cause its night time here at the moment... Thanks in advance
You'll need one of these white little ***** to properly and easily adjust it. The front ones have a little "nipple" that sticks up through the center of the shock that you can turn to adjust it firmer or softer. The back ones are adjusted the same, but you can't do it w/o removing them from the car because the top of the shock goes into the frame rail.
You'll need one of these white little ***** to properly and easily adjust it. The front ones have a little "nipple" that sticks up through the center of the shock that you can turn to adjust it firmer or softer. The back ones are adjusted the same, but you can't do it w/o removing them from the car because the top of the shock goes into the frame rail.
i have the Koni Yellows and love them. Nice shocks...
Call Koni USA and they will send you a ****. They sent me a few bump stops for free.
i have the Koni Yellows and love them. Nice shocks...
Call Koni USA and they will send you a ****. They sent me a few bump stops for free.
Oh yeah, so anti clock-wize is firmer? do i need that piece or can i use a small spanner? If not, do you think they will send me one here to Australia? (They were there when i got the car, and they are firm as rocks!!) Thanks again guys
I found this site, this bit here is pretty incredible....
Q: What is theKONI warranty? How do I go about getting replacements?
A: The KONI warranty is a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser against defects in materials and workmanship and against wear out for as long as you own that car registered for street use. The warranty does not cover damage to the parts caused by misuse, misapplication, installation, motorsports, etc. The warranty does not include mounting bushings. If you determine you have a defective damper you can either contact the company which you purchased the unit(s) from or contact KONI North America directly at warranty@koni-na.com or 859-586-4100. To process your warranty, we will require a copy of the purchase receipt and a vehicle registration. We will generate a return goods authorization (RGA) and can replace the dampers in advance at your discretion. For more specific information about the warranty see inside back cover of our technical guide.
So in short, would it be reasonable to believe these shocks are good basically for the expected service live of the vehicle?
I had Koni's on my Prelude... and they are GREAT pieces! I had them on the car for over 100k miles without any noticable degredation in performance. They are on my short list to replace shocks on the Vette.
Right, i did this thread a few months back, but it now seems as though i have a LEAKING KONI Yellow on the front left, however so far its not feeling like as if it is having any impact on the handling, and the ride is still firm. I found a small puddle of light greenish oily liquid on the ground right under where that shock wouldve been sitting. Now what do you sugest i do here??
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Not sure if what your seing is shock oil. If memory serves me correct, I believe the oil I saw at the plant was clear/amber not greenish.
The engineer there discussed the recommended adjustment procedure. Run the adjustment to full soft, and don't crank it down hard to the stop! Then back off the full soft stop one half turn and run it. When you make another adjustment ensure you always start from full soft and count the half turns making 1/4 turn adjustment steps as your tuning.
I've been running Konis on all my performance cars for the past twenty plus years. Best deal around except QA-1's
I did the developmet driving for those shocks, the rears should be set close to full soft, and the fronts should be "to taste", depending on wether or not you are on the track or on the street. The rears are a pain to adjust (unless you drill a hole in the body to get to them), but full soft will be very close to where you will want them for the street or the track. On the street full hard (where it sounds like yours are now) is a pretty stiff setting. In the front I would start about a half a turn from full soft and then go from there. On the track, with racing tires, you are going to want to run stiffer in the front, but since you can change that in a heartbeat, it's no big deal.
The engineer who did the development on those shocks was Dean Dodge and I think he came up with close to the perfect compromise, in terms of performance and handling for the C4. Not as harsh as the Bilstiens, but more controlled.....
Not sure if what your seing is shock oil. If memory serves me correct, I believe the oil I saw at the plant was clear/amber not greenish.
The engineer there discussed the recommended adjustment procedure. Run the adjustment to full soft, and don't crank it down hard to the stop! Then back off the full soft stop one half turn and run it. When you make another adjustment ensure you always start from full soft and count the half turns making 1/4 turn adjustment steps as your tuning.
I've been running Konis on all my performance cars for the past twenty plus years. Best deal around except QA-1's
Yeah i softend them all the way to soft then set them 1 turn out from soft, but i did this after i noticed the leak. I dont know what else this fluid could be or where else it could be from. It was a very pail colour, and would not have been far off clear, the outside top part of the shock has oil residue on it too where as the rest are spotlessly clean. A mate of mine says he believes the top seal is no longer with us.
Originally Posted by Solofast
I did the developmet driving for those shocks, the rears should be set close to full soft, and the fronts should be "to taste", depending on wether or not you are on the track or on the street. The rears are a pain to adjust (unless you drill a hole in the body to get to them), but full soft will be very close to where you will want them for the street or the track. On the street full hard (where it sounds like yours are now) is a pretty stiff setting. In the front I would start about a half a turn from full soft and then go from there. On the track, with racing tires, you are going to want to run stiffer in the front, but since you can change that in a heartbeat, it's no big deal.
The engineer who did the development on those shocks was Dean Dodge and I think he came up with close to the perfect compromise, in terms of performance and handling for the C4. Not as harsh as the Bilstiens, but more controlled.....
No worries yeah, they were on it when i bought the car almost 12 months ago, fronts were bloody close to full hard, and its that stiff in the back id be suprized if they were much less, just havent got to adjusting them since i found out i could. I only drive on the street so i dont want it so stiff like that. Thanks very much for those setting tips, ill be trying hard to get the time to get that done ASAP. Its night time here at the moment and i just got home from work, so it wont be now!! But when i get to it i will see if i can throw a piece of white paper on that fluid and see what colour it really is.
Last edited by Casethecorvetteman; Feb 11, 2006 at 08:34 AM.