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1991 Vette
Where is the best place to get a custom Aluminum Radiator for the stock location. I am looking for somthing with a bit more heat rejection than the OEM unit.
I have a Be-Cool and am very happy with it, but if I were you I would go with the Dewitt's. One, they are a Forum sponsor, and two, it should drop right in without any modifications (unlike the Be-Cool).
I have a Be-Cool and am very happy with it, but if I were you I would go with the Dewitt's. One, they are a Forum sponsor, and two, it should drop right in without any modifications (unlike the Be-Cool).
Mike
I commend you for this statement! All too often on the forum I see people recommend "what they bought" rather than what they would buy today. Also, recognizing the sponsorship is rarely valued.
That said, I have to point out that our 1990-96 model does actually require some mods to install it. These items are very simple and take about five mintues to do. No one could make a double row to fit in the gap that GM provided for the original single row core. Trimming the fan shroud to adjust for this takes mintues and anyone can do it. Here's a direct link for the automatic trans model 1990-96 model
I commend you for this statement! All too often on the forum I see people recommend "what they bought" rather than what they would buy today. Also, recognizing the sponsorship is rarely valued.
That said, I have to point out that our 1990-96 model does actually require some mods to install it. These items are very simple and take about five mintues to do. No one could make a double row to fit in the gap that GM provided for the original single row core. Trimming the fan shroud to adjust for this takes mintues and anyone can do it. Here's a direct link for the automatic trans model 1990-96 model
That's good to know. With the Be-Cool I can say it took a lot longer than 5 minutes. Some installation instructions would have been nice as well.
Thumbs up on the excellent product, and service to the Corvette community.
Question. Do the Be-Cool or Dewitts have a drain-****? I ask because I have a Ron Davis radiator and went to flush the system last weekend and discoved that it doesn't have one. Have to disconnect the lower radiator hose (PITA).
I always pull my lower hose to drain mine. First, I'm not sure how much I want to "test" that plastic petcock, in that plastic tank. Second, I've always pulled the bottom hose to allow the larger chunks an easy way out. No question, it IS messy.
I believe I bought a Griffin radiator from you a few years ago and it cause the radiator shroud to bulge and rub the inside of the hood. I ahve purchased a new shroud and would like to have a look at your trimming/shimming instructions before I put it in. I'd appreciate your help.
Thanks,
Jason
Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
I commend you for this statement! All too often on the forum I see people recommend "what they bought" rather than what they would buy today. Also, recognizing the sponsorship is rarely valued.
That said, I have to point out that our 1990-96 model does actually require some mods to install it. These items are very simple and take about five mintues to do. No one could make a double row to fit in the gap that GM provided for the original single row core. Trimming the fan shroud to adjust for this takes mintues and anyone can do it. Here's a direct link for the automatic trans model 1990-96 model
I know that. I believe Tom was reselling Griffin radiators at the time I bought mine and distinctly remember dealing with him at that time. I thought his trimming/shimming instructions would be helpful to me since the radiators look very similar.
Jason
Originally Posted by Slalom4me
DeWitts and Griffen are two different companies AFAIK
I believe I bought a Griffin radiator from (DEWITTS)a few years ago and it cause the radiator shroud to bulge and rub the inside of the hood. I ahve purchased a new shroud and would like to have a look at your trimming/shimming instructions before I put it in. I'd appreciate your help.
Thanks,
Jason
We did sell Griffin rads until we introduced our Direct Fit line in 2003. We developed the new line with feedback from customers like you on what was good and what wasn't. One of the problems with the 90-96 (Griffin) model was clearence on the top and bottom of the core. That's why we designed the "feet" you see on the photos above. This allows the radiator to drop right into the original narrow lower cushions without any interference over or under the core. The Griffin radiator was simply too tall in the middle and it hit the shroud cover. That's probably what you're running into.
This problem should not be confused with the mods we list for our Direct Fit model. These changes are required to fit a thicker core into an area that was too small. The fan shroud was mounted against the core with zero clearence. The shroud must be either trimed or shimmed back for room. Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do with the Griffin to make it fit better.
Stopped tonight and met Tom at Dewitts
After seeing the nice work and the care put into his product and taking care of his customers, I came home with a A90A.
We chatted a bit regarding transmission cooler configuration and Tom has a great looking shop.
Thanks for your time
I look forward to setting this in the front of my 91 this weekend.
Check these radiators out. They are a direct fit replacement. No modifications necessary. We specialize in off road cooling but due to a personal need for cooling my now ex-wife's 89 Vette, L-98, 383 stroker, we designed the extreme radiator for the 84-89 corvette. After seeing an increasing demand for the product we later developed a radiator for the 90-96 as well. These are high quality radiators that we have shipped all over the world and are currently cooling stock to stroked and supercharged C-4's. Don't believe the hype about aluminum trying to justify the $500. price tag. Design is what provides maximum cooling benefits, not the metal used even though copper is a far better heat conducter than aluminum. http://extremeradiator.com/store/Pro...aspx?sku=829-3 http://extremeradiator.com/store/Pro...spx?sku=1052-3
Does 'All Metal' mean that the Extreme radiator
is of copper brass construction?
.
That is correct. Copper/brass, High efficiency 3 row core design. 1 7/8" core vs. 1" or 1 3/8" factory core.
Copper/brass is repairable, resistent to electrolysis and chemical corrosion.
There is no permanent repair for an all aluminum radiator, nor can it be disassembled and cleaned in the event that it becomes clogged. It becomes scrap metal.
They will both cool well when properly designed but the only advantage
of aluminum is weight vs. copper/brass, and that is only marginal. 7 or 8 lbs. at best.