I've got TPIS long tube headers with the O2 bung in the collector going on and have seen alot of people running long tube headers going with heated O2 sensors. Do I need a heated sensor or will the stocker type do? If so where to buy one and a part # would be good as the local auto parts stores aren't very knowledgable if the part isn't stock.


BTW the car is a '90 auto and the chip I'm using is from PCMforless and major mods are: 383 ci, ling 219 cam, SR, dart heads, true dual pipes with x-over.

 

3-wire Heated Oxygen Sensor: 25176708 GM List: $109.00

3-wire Weatherpack Connector: 12126012 GM List: $29.34

Although I know you can get one cheaper than $100 somewhere.

The question has no answer if you dont hook up a scanner to see if your car is dropping into open loop when its warm and idling. If it doesnt you dont need one.

 

I'm running TPIS long tube headers and, yes, mine required a heated 02 sensor. System would drop out of Closed Loop at idle without it.

Although I didn't readily notice any change in the engine's idle with the stock - non-heated - 01 sensor, with Diacom running I could see the system reverting too Open Loop. The heated sensor cured that. It's a simple three wire hook-up.

I bought mine, a Bosch, at AutoZone for under $50, but since I'm away fron Texas, I don't have access to the part number to post it here for you.

The number may be included in one of the Tech Tips on this Forum. If not, I'm sure someone will post it for you.

Jake

 

I'll give the local Autozone a call, and if I can get one for under $50 then I'll just go ahead and do it. Did yours come with instructions on how to hook it up? I'm assuming I have to splice some wires somewhere.

 

Lingenfelter also sells a heated 02 by Bosch for around $110.00, LN0055, but AutoZone has the same one for half the price. From memory, I want to say 14190, but don't hold me to that.

No it didn't come with instructions and has a weatherpak connector factory installed. This connector has to be cut off to expose the loose wires in order to be able to connect/splice them in.

An alternative way is to buy a matching female connector. Then connect the female and male weatherpak connectors and use the exposed pigtail wires from the female to splice/connect to ground/hot/ECM.

Heated sensor comes with three wires. Two white and one black.

The black is spliced to the original wire which leads to the ECM.

One white wire goes to a convenient ground location and the OTHER white wire is spliced into a 12 volt source which is ONLY HOT with the ignition key in the On/Run position. Doesn't matter which white is used for HOT/GROUND.

A simple 12 volt test light can ID the hot wire for you.

I originally spliced my Hot wire into the windshield wiper wiring just inboard of the power brake booster, but I found that with the wipers in intermittent mode, voltage would drop below 12V. That could cause the heating element to not receive the required voltage when the car was at a stop light with the wipers on. So I switched it to the relay mounted on the driver's side wheel well tub.

I believe I used the fan relay, but I tend to get all those relay locations confused. I believe those mounted on the firewall are MAF and fuel pump

I chose NOT to use the MAF Power and Burn-Off relays or the fuel pump relay.

Jake

 

If you get a three-wire sensor, then there are typically
two white wires and a black wire. You can buy sensors
either with a finished end with a plug already installed
or as a 'Universal' model with no plug. See this thread
for some info about p/n

The white wires are for the heater. There is no
polarity for these so it does not matter which way they
are connected - one goes to a good ground and the
other goes to a switched positive (on in the 'Run, test,
start' key positions. Good practice calls for adding a
5 amp fuse. The blue wire to the Aux Fan relay mounted
on the rear side of the driver's fender well might be
one possible source for switched 12 VDC - verify before
proceeding.

The black wire is for the sensor lead. You could cut
the wire on the old sensor several inches back from
the female end and then splice, solder and shrink-wrap
or tape a joint.

.

 

JAKE and Slalom4me

-- Separated at birth --

 

I did the same as Jake, used the fan relay on the driver's side wheel well. I have an 85 and I spliced into the blue wire for a keyed power source. Also, I got a Borg Warner O2 sensor off ebay for around $30.

 

Just finished a check for you. I saw the Bosch part number is 13190, which - as I understand it - is an AutoZone part number, not a Bosch number.

Hope this helps.

Jake

 

https://www.casperselectronics.com/M..._Code=Corvette

 

Includes the sensor and a nice OEM-like plug on a
preassembled, retrofit plug-and-play harness for $90 ?

Wow, now there's a deal !

This information comes too late for me, but it is a hot
tip for those who are thinking about making the
change to a heated sensor on any kind of vehicle.

Very helpful.

.

 

Several other interesting items at their site, too.

.

 

;0)