Ramrod92

I think Jeb is getting ready to pull the front agian to check the chain.

ScaryFast

I haven't had a chance to work on it lately, plus it's so friggin cold this week (19* F) that I don't have the motivation to work in the garage until I can spend enough time in one session to be worth heating up the garage with a tankful of propane.

I'm also waiting on the new cable, I had a guy at work build it for me. He does it for a living and will make a much nicer piece than the hack job I would have cobbled together.

I really have two problems, the knocking (which is most likely timing related), and the ECM communications (or lack thereof).

It's going to be a quick check with the new cable, I'll plug it in, wire it directly to engine ground and 12V, and it will work or it won't. There is a little fiddling that can be done with the TTS software, but not much.

The other thing I need to do is check timing with a light (old-school). It would be much easier for the computer to tell me if it's off, but in the absence of that option I'll put timing tape on the crank pulley, pull plug #1, and stick a light on it. After I bypass the knock sensors, of course.

Anyone know the resistance to use to eliminate them?

-js-

Keep us posted. I can also give some assistance if you continue to have problems. I have made a few maxim 233 based ALDL interfaces and have an oscilloscope to probe the signals. I think your about 45 min from me.

FD2BLK

19 deg, burrrr, I now know why I left the cold behind.
I think as long as you use a resistor the same value as the KS it will work without having to use the KS in parrallel . Resistance should be between 3300-4500 ohms for your car. I would just get a resistor in that range and disconnect the KS all togeather. But before I did that I would get the current problem resolved.

Here are a couple of links that refer to KS's that may give some help

http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/knock.gif

http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/f-tech.htm

ScaryFast

I don't suppose you have a heated shop, do you?

I'll bring the car over tonight!

I'm in Novi, right at 275 and 696. Where are you located?

-js-

No shop just a garage with a small heater and two verts stored for the winter.
I work at I94 and I275. Live about 25 min. south and east of there.
I'm going to guess you have the ability to trailer it here?

Fill us in on the cable from the guy at work.

ScaryFast

Yeah, I have a trailer. And the car will run well enough to get it up there.

I was supposed to head to Korea this week for work, but it's off so I am going to try to spend some time on it. I'll keep you posted, I might need some help.

So how much messing around with LT1 fuel injection have you done, any?

-js-

I have a electronics backround and more years than I want to admit doing test engineering for an OEM that spunoff the auto parts making biz.
Making sure a laptop is communicating to another device was a weekly thing I was doing at work until last month.
If you can't get the ALDL communications going it would probably be easier to start with checking out your laptop/cable out of the car. (I did read that you had the ECM tested)
As for tuning I have only tuned my own thats MAF based.
Your welcome to email or pm me.

ScaryFast

I finally got the cable (damn work priorities), and it's a piece of art. Hopefully I'll get some time ASAP to try it out. I also had an insulated garage door installed...perhaps that, coupled with my propane heater, will keep my fingers from turning blue while messing with this thing.

So this begs the question: do I have to include the cost of the new garage door when I tally up the cash spent on this project?

Further bulletins as events warrant, although I may start a new thread as this one's gotten a little lengthy.

ScaryFast

This is just awesome.

Used the new cable, wired it directly to battery, engine ground, and tied it into the data line inches from the ECM. Still can't get datamaster to communicate. I'm back to the "ALDL connected but unsupported PCM type" error message. I did see a bunch of junk show up in hyperterminal, however.

I ran the car for a few minutes and checked codes with the SES light. Now I have a code 16 (Opti lo res signal) flashing. Could this be a fluke, or is my brand new optispark bad again?

I put it on in July, it has less than 500 miles on it! I did disasseble it to put it on the new motor, but this is ridiculous. I'm ready to start a fire and call insurance.

luvmy92

Mine did the same thing (same code) with a new Opti (2nd) and the shop wanted to get another one. I said it can't be that... keep on digging. Turned out it was a 6 month old ECM, and Ecklers stopped selling the 92 ECM they sold me so I was SOL. Had to buy it from Superior.

This stuff is fun, isn't it?

I'm about to have mine pulled for the 3rd time because I'm going thru a quart of oil every 30 minute session on the track.

Mike

Alvin

It can also be the piece of wiring harness that goes from the opti to the middle of the intake passenger side.

ScaryFast

I'll check the wiring this weekend, I'm in Houston until then.

Mike - a friggin' quart? Do you have a leak, bad rings, what?

luvmy92

I think it's the #7 and #8 rings. I'm blowing it all out the tail pipes and those 2 plugs look like sludge.

I'm hoping theres no damage to the cylinder walls because I can't bore them out any more (it's already .040" over). I guess we'll find out.

BTW, anybody got a match?

Mike