88 headlight module same as firebird?
can you see the curcuit board on the firebird one to note any differences?
Do you play with electronics at all? first thing I would try is look for cold solder joints. Its amazing how many things go bad and that is the only problem.
Second, are the #'s still on the transistors? if so, you may be able to try replacing some components. Its pretty much guess and test, though.
Can the headlights be plugged in separately, and can you swap them to test both lights? (just covering all the bases)
I do know that the compontents between the two models look amazingly similar, but I do not know what parts are the same, if any. Corvette lights do about 180 degrees of motion, whereas the birds do about 90 degrees, but other than that, the operation it pretty similar. What I am unsure of is how the stops work, I haven't looked at my vette close enough to see if it is a simple mechanical stop like a bird, or if its something unusual.
I was just thinking, It could be something stupid like the motors rotating the other way. Did the healights make any noise at all with bird module? (long shot)
Not sure if I'm helpfull at all, »keith
Firebird module on left/Corvette module on right
Firebird module closeup:
Corvette module closeup:

I am thinking of swapping the BUZ10 transistor and fuse to the corvette module.
On another note, is it possible to wire a toggle switch directly to the motors and shut it off manually when they reach their extents? This would be a temperary fix but may help until i can do something with the module.
Thanks gurus.
It appears each board uses a different IC, so that would explain the different layouts. I tried looking up the IC online, but didn't find a crossreference. I did find a site called icmaster.com that looked promising, but, to be honest I didn't want to register my email address. I don't know how far you want to take the search up, but you can give that site a shot too. datasheetarchive.com and alldatasheet.com didn't seem to pan out for the IC, though.
Those are very nice closeup shots of the boards. If you could post up the same shot of the backsides of the boards, I may be able to map out a schematic that could explain the differences and maybe a solution could be found to make it compatable. Its a stretch, but you never know.
The vette board almost looks like its been repaired before on the jumper wire. I would tend to buy new components rather than risk the firebird board just yet.
I found the BUZ10 online, but if you can find a local electronics place, that would be better. the site says no minimum order, but I'm sure there is a minium cost. I looked on radio shacks site, but they are becoming less and less helpfull with 'real' electronics parts and I couldn't find it there, at least not under the same name.
On to the switch. Yes, it is possible, -but- I would not recommend it cause, to me, I'd just manually wind the lights all they way up and leave them their till its fixed. Its not worth risking accidentally leaving the switch(or bumping it) and burning up a motor. At the very least I'd use a double pole double throw momentary only switch so they switch would have to to be held in order for it to work. It would be something like this:

After reading all this, I'm sure you can see why most people eventually take the amount of hours it is taking divided by the cost of the part and it often gets depressing how little dollars/hour they are saving.
Thats why you don't see much info around on stuff like this.

although, at the very least, when you got this all figured out and done, you might as well wire up the left light so you can "wink" at people with it.

HTH, »keith
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
I guess the C4 module was different.
Heres a spring loaded center off toggle which would help any human error.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
How many amps does each headlight draw?
Last edited by GiDvEtTe84; Dec 5, 2005 at 02:02 PM.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=search
How many amps does each headlight draw?

Most multimeters go up to 10 amps, so you could measure it if it is below 10.
I have an idea for a self regulating curcuit using a small self resetting breaker, or possibly even a signal flasher, but I have to work out a few kinks. If I think I'm successful, I'll post it.
»keith
One of the above would be a better option than mucking around with interchanging used parts, unless doing that would be a source of entertainment or academics.
...but, since I have an irritating and irrational pursuit of solutions, I think I may have a homebrew idea for the bold.

The theory is, bi directional headlight motor, self energizing power circuit triggered by a momentary ground from a switch. The self-reseting breaker(a bulb flasher might work?) should be set for an amperage just over the power needed to startup the lights, but within safe current levels for the circuit capacity. When the breaker opens the circuit, the relays open, and the circuit remains open when the breaker resets.
The circuit could probably be balanced to even do both lights a once. Although the fastest light would enivitably be at 'stall' slightly longer than the slower light. And it is very possible it could be integrated to work with the factory switch, but probably would need altering to do so.
It is essentially the same operation as the module without the precision or low cost(to produce) of the module. I'm thoroughly convinced someone good with basic IC skills could probably build a better setup, but I'm not quite that smart or that motivated.

feel free to poke holes in it, its just a thought.

»keith
You sure are working hard, i appreciate it! I guess i will have to troubleshoot the circuit before I can continue. Maybe i have some other problem here that causes both modulesnot to work.
CorvAdel
Im curious what year the TA was that you got it from.
Thanks to all.
...but, since I have an irritating and irrational pursuit of solutions, I think I may have a homebrew idea for the bold.

The theory is, bi directional headlight motor, self energizing power circuit triggered by a momentary ground from a switch. The self-reseting breaker(a bulb flasher might work?) should be set for an amperage just over the power needed to startup the lights, but within safe current levels for the circuit capacity. When the breaker opens the circuit, the relays open, and the circuit remains open when the breaker resets.
The circuit could probably be balanced to even do both lights a once. Although the fastest light would enivitably be at 'stall' slightly longer than the slower light. And it is very possible it could be integrated to work with the factory switch, but probably would need altering to do so.
It is essentially the same operation as the module without the precision or low cost(to produce) of the module. I'm thoroughly convinced someone good with basic IC skills could probably build a better setup, but I'm not quite that smart or that motivated.

feel free to poke holes in it, its just a thought.

»keith














